This guide for World of Tanks game contains not only information to help completely beginners which start the gameplay and try to understand basic rules in the "tanks' world", but also a bunch of tips which can be useful for more advanced players. In addition it contains a short description of most popular game vehicles and their characteristics, as well as methods to defeat them.
The guide contains:
The guide uses the following color coding:
Slawomir "Asmodeusz" Michniewski ()
Translated by Maciej "Elrond" Myrcha
Once you visit World of Tanks main website (worldoftanks.com), you should be automatically redirected to the European (American) server. But it also happens that you stay on the default server - just click then on the globe icon in the top-left corner and select Europe (North America). The top menu bar can be also used to switch the language (which can make site navigation easier).
Then look for option "PLAY FOR FREE", fill all fields and follow instructions on screen. If you have any invite code then check the proper option and type it in a new field. After creation of an account you have to confirm its authenticity (check for an e-mail and follow instructions).
The final step is to download game client: select Game tab and then Download Game. Now you have to make sure that you're downloading a proper version (for European/North American region). After logging in the game you can start your adventure with tanks.
At this point we should mention also a method to activate bonus codes. It can be done from the browser: just login into server (top-right corner) and then click on your account and select Enter bonus code option. After a moment codes will be activate in the game.
World of Tanks, similarly to most MMO games, developed a specific vocabulary which describes tanks, players behaviors or situation on the map. Below you will find a list of most important abbreviations and terms used in World of Tanks. It is not a complete list, since game language is still evolving. Nicknames of some vehicles might depend on with who you talk, as two completely different tanks might have the same agnomen dependant on how specific player name it. The naming of the vehicles is where players have the greatest imagination and you can find nicknames like cake, pancake, fridge and many more. You won't find tanks nicknames in this dictionary as they quickly become out of date.
Ammo rack - Ammunition rack. If it is damaged two times it explodes.
Arty - Artillery
Buff - improvement of specific tank or module statistics
Camper - player who waits in one place for the whole battle and waits for other players to find enemies. It doesn't apply to tank destroyers or artillery. Pejorative term
Cap - circle that symbolizes the base
capping- assaulting enemy base
CW, Clanwars - a battle between two clans, with no restrictions in tanks level
decap- defending the occupied base by damaging enemy tanks
detrack- removing the track, which immobilizes tank
Ding - ricochet, a bullet bouncing away from the armor
DMG - Damage
Frag - defeated enemy
Free Exp - experience that you can spend on any module or vehicle
GG - Good game, used usually after victorious battle.
GL - Good Luck, used before battle as GL&HF (Good Luck & Have Fun)
Grind - unlocking tanks from a specific tree, for example one can grind German artillery
Stars - bonus for first victory of the day. The term "knocking stars" is often used to describe playing with a specific tank only once a day to receive the bonus.
HE - high explosive ammunition
HT- heavy tanks
Hull Down - a tactic which consists of sticking out only the turret out of the cover while the rest of the tank is hidden behind a hill, rock, wall or other cover
kamikaze - a person that in first seconds of the game rides to enemy positions to find as many enemies as possible. An action that doesn't give any advantage to your team
angling- setting the armor at angle towards enemy to increase its efficiency
Critical - a shot that inflicts additional damage to modules or crew
LT- Light tanks
matchmaking- a match/battle in WOT of specific tanks level
MT- meds - medium tanks
Nerf - lowering the stats of specific module or tank
noob- beginner player
OMW - On My Way, used to communicate that you're on your way to the place where someone invited you
OP - Overpowered. A description of tank, armor or gun that is too good for it level in the game. You can commonly hear that some tank is OP on V tier.
Stock tank - a tank with basic, worst modules available: cannon, engine, turret, tracks, radiostation
tomato- beginner player - the name comes from the way in which weak players were shown with red color in XVM mod
scout- a tank that scouts
sidescraping- angling the hull behind a cover in a way that protects frontal armor, forcing the enemy to shoot at side armor at near parallel angles
Splash - shock wave created by a high explosive ammo. Especially important in case of artillery.
Spot/mark- highlight of targets/spotting enemies by the scout so that the team could shoot at him
TD- tank destroyer
tier- tank level - from 1 to 10
troll- a big cannon which inflicts great damage, has a low accuracy and long reload time
weakspot- a spot on the armor that you should shoot if you can't pierce normal armor
Win Ratio - A percentage statistic that shows the ratio of player wins
WN8 - One of the parameters describing player skills. The higher the better. Especially important while recruiting to a clan
WoT- World of Tanks
Sixth sense indicator - commandors Sixth Sense ability, that tells you that someone has discovered you
Begin with getting familiar with beginners guide that can be found on the game website. Then play the combat training, which is a tutorial and its icon can be found in the upper left corner of the garage. Training lasts less than 5 minutes and you should complete it since it is awarded with 6000 credits and 300 free experience. As for the tanks, it is suggested to start with the Soviet tree. It is the best for beginners.
Start with the MS-1 tank and select the line that leads to KV-1. One, two games with the XXX tank (with the basic cannon, turret, engine) and you buy T-26 without the crew. You probably won't be playing with this tank later, so you should only develop modules that allow you to unlock T-26 (37 mm B-3 cannon, MS-1 mod.1930 turret). You don't need to buy them.
When buying new tanks, you have 4 possibilities: to buy a crew that is 100% trained for 200 gold per person, 75% for 20000 credits, 50% for free or transfer the crew from another tank. Transferring requires you to train the crew for the new tank, what costs you 200 gold for keeping 100% per person, 20000 credits for 75%, 60% for free and in case of the same tank type (like heavy tank, light tank) 200 gold for 100%, 20000 for 90%, 80% for free.
You send the MS-1 crew to the barracks, move them from the barracks to new tank and give them a free training. A lots of battles awaits you now, so while you're gaining experience you should gradually buy better components in order: cannon, turret, engine. For now, you abandon tracks and radio. As for the cannon, you should develop and mount 37mm ZIS-19. You will be able to install it in the next cannon instead the stock cannon.
Leave the free experience for later.
If you have more than 3000 credits, you should buy consumables. In order: small repair kit, small first aid kit, manual fire extinguisher.
Repair kit is used for repairing the modules damaged by enemy. After the damage you press the corresponding button, then the number of the module. First aid kit works similar for "repairing" the crew members.
With the crew you act like before. More than a dozen of battles awaits you on this tank, so you should gradually upgrade it. In order: turret, 76mm L-10 cannon, engine, radio, tracks.
Crew matters. You start with the commander, just as you did before. If crew training level is greatly below 75% after an eventual training (commander increases crew training level, so you check level at him), you should recruit a new crew at level 75%, which costs 20000 per person. Crew is vital, and you will probably play a lot with this tank, so spending a large amount of cash on personnel is justified.
In World of Tanks (WoT) there are Weekend, Weekly, Monthly and Special missions. For completing them you receive credits, equipment, consumables , garage slots, premium days and even premium tanks or gold. In almost every of them tanks from tier 4 above participate, so you should as quickly as possible get the T-28.
Use of repair kit fixes the damaged module.
Use of first aid kit recovers the crew member.
Fire extinguisher is used for putting out the fire. The faster you press the button when on fire, the less damage you receive.
Here's a little practical advice. If you can't press faultlessly, quickly and without looking 4, 5 and six button to which those consumables are linked, and your keyboard doesn't have a characteristic "bulges" on them, you can stick to the 5 button a piece of bandaid. Thanks to that, you will be able to quickly and without looking find that button and those near of him.
Mods are add-ons that make the game easier and more comfortable. You must install them by yourself or use packs with installer, like Aslain.
1 Hit Log - It shows information who shot you, with what ammunition type and when will he reload. Information that you are shot with gold ammunition (very expensive, with far greater armor penetration) is especially helpful, you know then that chances of receiving damage greatly increases.
2 Info Panel - basic vehicle information after moving your pointer at him. Even if you know all vehicles parameters, thanks to this panel you will know which gun does your enemy have installed. The red information is very helpful, it shows enemy reload time. It tells you how much time you have after enemy shoot for riding out, shooting and hiding back.
3 Damage Indicator - shows direction from which you were shot, even if enemy vehicle isn't discovered. In red hits with penetration, in gray without.
4 XVM side panel - presents enemy skills with colors
5 Modified map - show vehicles name. The drawing range (tanks outside the red frame are unseen - the game engine doesn't show them but you can hit them with blind shoot). White line shows the direction of your camera. Orange circle shows the theoretical vision range. Small white field around your tank shows 50m circle in which every tank is always spotted. Most important thing - with a faded red color the last known position of enemy tanks is marked.
6 Tank marker - left yellow digit - vehicle tier. Two middle digits - percentage of health points left. Two digits at sides - player level - XVM. Color of those digits change depending on player skills. Lower right corner - white digits - amount of battles played by enemy with that tank. Tank name above. A star near tank name means stock turret - probably a weaker gun. Markers work similar for allied vehicles, except player name added and the lack of digits showing the amount of battles played.
The current time and modules repair time in the damage panel is shown thanks to this mod pack as well.
XVM - it's a modification that shows player skills. It's a very useful tool that allows you to predict with great precise what can you except of your enemy and your ally. Additionally, before every battle it shows chances for winning and after it a thorough debriefing.
For XVM to work properly you must activate it for free at XVM site by login in with your World of Tanks login. There you will be able to change the way it works as well.
XVM player categories. Players are shown in game with colors. There are various parameters that estimates skills. Those are the most popular: WN8, WN6, WN7 and EFF. Each player is automatically judged based on his actions in those categories. Based on his score, he is in the bracket with a specific color. There are differences in all parameters mentioned above, but usually player gets the same color in all indicators.
COLORS
When watching at player color, you must take in consideration amount of victories, number of frags (killed enemies) per battle and the ratio of damage dealt to own HP as well.
Skins
Skins add colors to the tank and a marker showing the placement of modules an crew.
KV1 skins
KV1 skins
KV1 skinsAdditionally, there is a mod in the pack that adds a second line of slots for tanks shown in the garage, which is useful when you have more of them.
1 Vehicle B is positioned wrong. Side armor is weaker than front and is a bigger target. Additionally, it is easier to get detracked in that position.
2 Right position
3 Best position. The front armor is angled (it's harder to penetrate it, and the side armor with such angle is impenetrable)
4 Bad riding out from behind an obstacle
5 Good riding out with angled armor (armor placement)
6 Right riding out with sidescrap (using the side armor)
Purple rectangle shows the difference gained by angling the front armor. When angling, the side of the vehicle should be hidden behind an obstacle. You should XXX less when in open to avoid unnecessary risk of damaging the side.
1. Don't ride alone. Strength lies in group.
2. Don't avoid combat. Even one shot that hits can be decisive for victory,
3. Don't hide near the base waiting for enemy to come. If he comes after defeating your allies, you won't do anything alone.
4. Do what experienced players tell you to do - green, blue and purple ones.
5. If you don't know whether you should conquer enemy base (Cap) or protect your own, assaulted by enemies (Decap), protect your base.
6. Shoot, hide, reload, shoot.
7. Never create troop with tanks of different tiers. Battles are matched based on the highest tier from a troop, so in that case chances for winning are lowered. And very often at the beginning of the battle someone from your own team will kill you.
8. Don't shoot without a reason. You can unintentionally harm your ally, and a tank that shoots is easier to detect.
9. Don't ram your allies. Some tanks are very fragile and even a minor touch can damage them.
10. Don't touch your allies even a bit. Moved tank loses its camouflage bonus, and his Binocular Telescope and Camouflage Net stops working (they begin working again after 3 seconds). A tank that is aiming to shoot even slightly touched can miss.
12. Don't get in way of faster tanks. They probably know what they're doing and every second counts.
13. If someone is shooting at you, don't stay in one place. Hide, and if you have no place to hide, then move. It is harder to hit moving target.
14. Always position yourself front toward enemy. Never show him your side or back. Front armor can bounce off a bullet. Additionally, when standing with side towards enemy you're a bigger target.
15. Try to aim at sides and back of your enemy.
16. Don't stay near a shooting ally. Every shot in 15 meter radius reduces the cover provided by bushes and trees.
17. You should have some gold bullets for special circumstances on which the victory depends. Or for someone that angers you.
18. In tanks that have a slow turret rotation, to reduces the aiming time move your hull with the turret.
19. If a tank in front of you moves back and pushes at you, move back. If you won't do it, he will probably die.
20. During the 50% sale, in first order buy Binocular telescope (+25% to view range when the tank hull is stationary), Toolbox (+25% to repair speed) and Camouflage net (increases camouflage when the tank hull is stationary). This equipment can be used after transferring, on every tank you're currently playing with.
21. You should always have in your tans a small recovery kit, small first aid kit and fire extinguisher.
22. If you don't know where to shoot, aim at the lower plate in front of a tank.
23. Don't knock over trees, it can alarm your enemies of your presence.
24. Whenever it is possible, aim at modules and seats of crew members. There is a chance for additional profits.
25. Modules that can be found in tanks on the same development line develop on lower tiers.
26. Don't buy premium tanks until you learn the game well. You should wait instead of being sorry for wasting real money.
27. When playing with light tank don't make a suicide raid at the beginning of the battle to discover those few enemy tanks. When you're playing as scout you should survive as long as possible and discover enemies for as long as possible.
28. Count the enemy tanks on the minimap. If there are 5 enemy tanks left, and on the minimap you see 5 enemy tanks on the other side of the map fighting with your allies, then act. There is no one in front of you. Attack the enemy from the back or take over the base.
29. Don't shoot at your ally, even if he is shooting at you. You can get automatic ban for it.
30. Participate in public tests of new versions of WOT. Check how comfortable you feel with specific tanks, what does the equipment gives, how to destroy well armored vehicles etc.
Ammo rack - Ammunition rack. If it is damaged two times it explodes.
Arty - Artillery
Buff - improvement of specific tank or module statistics
Camper - player who waits in one place for the whole battle and waits for other players to find enemies. It doesn't apply to tank destroyers or artillery. Pejorative term
Cap - circle that symbolizes the base
capping- assaulting enemy base
CW, Clanwars - a battle between two clans, with no restrictions in tanks level
decap- defending the occupied base by damaging enemy tanks
detrack- removing the track, which immobilizes tank
Ding - ricochet, a bullet bouncing away from the armor
DMG - Damage
Frag - defeated enemy
Free Exp - experience that you can spend on any module or vehicle
GG - Good game, used usually after victorious battle.
GL - Good Luck, used before battle as GL&HF (Good Luck & Have Fun)
Grind - unlocking tanks from a specific tree, for example one can grind German artillery
Stars - bonus for first victory of the day. The term "knocking stars" is often used to describe playing with a specific tank only once a day to receive the bonus.
HE - high explosive ammunition
HT- heavy tanks
Hull Down - a tactic which consists of sticking out only the turret out of the cover while the rest of the tank is hidden behind a hill, rock, wall or other cover
kamikaze - a person that in first seconds of the game rides to enemy positions to find as many enemies as possible. An action that doesn't give any advantage to your team
angling- setting the armor at angle towards enemy to increase its efficiency
Critical - a shot that inflicts additional damage to modules or crew
LT- Light tanks
matchmaking- a match/battle in WOT of specific tanks level
MT- meds - medium tanks
Nerf - lowering the stats of specific module or tank
noob- beginner player
OMW - On My Way, used to communicate that you're on your way to the place where someone invited you
OP - Overpowered. A description of tank, armor or gun that is too good for it level in the game. You can commonly hear that some tank is OP on V tier.
Stock tank - a tank with basic, worst modules available: cannon, engine, turret, tracks, radiostation
tomato- beginner player - the name comes from the way in which weak players were shown with red color in XVM mod
scout- a tank that scouts
sidescraping- angling the hull behind a cover in a way that protects frontal armor, forcing the enemy to shoot at side armor at near parallel angles
Splash - shock wave created by a high explosive ammo. Especially important in case of artillery.
Spot/mark- highlight of targets/spotting enemies by the scout so that the team could shoot at him
TD- tank destroyer
tier- tank level - from 1 to 10
troll- a big cannon which inflicts great damage, has a low accuracy and long reload time
weakspot- a spot on the armor that you should shoot if you can't pierce normal armor
Win Ratio - A percentage statistic that shows the ratio of player wins
WN8 - One of the parameters describing player skills. The higher the better. Especially important while recruiting to a clan
WoT- World of Tanks
Sixth sense indicator - commandors Sixth Sense ability, that tells you that someone has discovered you
Events
In World of Tanks wot) there are Special Offers every weekend, Weekly missions in other days, Monthly or Special missions that last whole month and many occasional events (like new year offer, 15-years of Wargaming, 3 years of World of Tanks etc.). What is worth mentioning, there are changes in the game with new updates. Below description is based on wot version 9.2.
Special offers
Usually they last from 7:10 Saturday to 7:00 Tuesday.
Sometimes they last from 7:10 Friday to 7:00 Monday.
In most cases there is a combination of missions, price drops and bonuses.
Weekly missions
Between weekend missions. Usually they are constructed in a way so that for standard game you receive small reward (win 5 battles and you will get 3 large repair kits two times per day).
Monthly and special missions
Special missions so far are about premium tanks. It is a great opportunity, since IS-6 available in December 2013 mission costs 11,800 gold, and SuperPershing from May 2014 - 7,200. IS-6 mission was about collecting 100000 experience with every nation while using tier 6 tanks. Additionally, for completing every sub-mission with a country you were awarded with 3 days of premium. SuperPershing mission, much easier, was about getting 75000 experience points with each nation while using tier 4 - 8 tanks. Two days of premium account for sub-mission, garage slot for 100 gold and free garage slot for 100 battles (5 times per account).
Both tanks weren't hard to get if every day you "knocked stars" (double experience for first won battle) and used the weekend bonuses (like 5x experience for first win). If you had the right tanks in your garage, missions for one country could have been completed in one week with 5x experience for first battle.
XXX are greatly rewarded. Premium, gold, garage slots or lots of credits. Rules are created in a way so that you need to play few battles every two days to complete them. Some missions are hard to complete. August 2013 - 30 vehicles to destroy every day - 300000 credits, for 50000 experience - one day of premium. September 2013 - every day for 15 victories - 250000 credits, for 50000 experience points - one day of premium. October 2013 - every day for 50000 damage - 250000 credits.
Special events
They are related to events that happen in real world or anniversaries (like 15 years of Wargaming - many discounts and a free tier 3 tank)
Events mentioned before offer in different combinations bonuses, discounts and missions.
Completing missions is usually awarded with credits and consumables. More rarely with equipment or few premium days.
There comes a moment in life of every World of Tanks player when he starts to suffer from the lack of credits. He must answer a question then - "With what tank should I play to earn more money?". Below you will find some of the best tanks for earning money. It will be shown from two perspectives: for a player that doesn't want to spend any real money and for a player that is ready to use some real cash.
A completely subjective top 5 of vehicles for earning money, including the standard and premium ones.
Regular vehicles
Premium vehicles
1.
KV-1S
Jagdtiger 8,8cm
2.
M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo
T34
3.
T1 Heavy
Lowe
4.
Panzer IV H
T-34-3
5.
M6
IS-6
Most players don't want to spend real money in World of Tanks. Sadly, on higher tiers practically every battle ends with a loss of some credits. It forces players to play on low-level vehicles in order to gain money for bullets and repairs. So, what vehicles should you play with in order to get some money without using a premium account or premium tanks?
Most of all, you must known that tanks from level V-VI are the most profitable to play with. A specific model is less important. You should choose a tank that you like to play with and are getting good results with. It is worth mentioning that even after a good battle the money you earn won't be impressive. After suffering a great loss you should be slightly in plus, after an average battle with 1-2 frags you should earn around 10-15 thousand. Good battles with lots of damage dealt and a few destroyed tanks will reward you with 20-40 thousand credits.
The best money-earning tanks are those which repair and ammo cost isn't big and they allow you to get good results. A good option for the beginners is the KV-1 tank. He has a great armor, very good cannon and the random system usually throws you at the top. Another good option is American heavy tank T1 or its successor M6. Those two tanks should allow you to earn good. If you prefer medium tanks, you can select Russian T-34-85, American Sherman Jumbo or German Panzer IV H version with howitzer. If you play with tank destroyers then you should select the tank that gives you the best results. American Hellcat is a good choice.
For some players earning money in the regular way will be too time consuming and they will decide to spend some real cash. First thing you should do in that case is buy premium account. The longer subscription you buy, the lower its price. Premium account gives you 50% bonus to cash you earn, so even when you play with tanks that were unprofitable before now you will be able to gain some credits with them.
You can find some special premium vehicles in the game which you can buy for real money and they give you additional bonus to the amount of credits earned. What's more, ammunition and repair costs of those vehicles is very cheap. Thanks to that, even after an average battle you can earn 30 or even 40 thousand credits. But it all comes with the necessity of spending more than few dozens of dollars on a single vehicle.
Many experienced players consider the German tank destroyer Jagdtiger 8,8 cm the best vehicle to earn money. It has a great front armor, accurate cannon with low reload time and cheap ammunition. However, not everyone likes to play with a TD. In that case the best option would be one of the VII or VIII level heavy tanks. It can be a German Lowe, American T34, French FCM 50 t or Chinese T-34-4. Every one of the tanks mentioned above will be a good choice and you should decide based on your preferred game style. All of those tanks has their pros and cons, but one thing is similar in all of them - they're great money makers.
Not everyone can afford spending so much on a single vehicle in a game. The ones with less money should choose the Russian heavy tank Churchill III. He has great armor, has a quick cannon and he is practically always on the top of the list. He costs far less than other premium tanks. He is pretty slow and require some time to get used to him, but you won't find a better tank for that price.
If you have the funds required, the first things you buy during the 50% discount on equipment should be:
Camouflage net: after three seconds of not moving improves your masking. It is the first thing to buy because of its price - 50000 credits when in promotion.
Repair kit: +25% to repair speed - 250 000 in promotion.
Binocular telescope: +25% to the seeing radius - 250 000 in promotion.
The items mentioned above have one great advantage. They can be mounted and demounted on the tanks. Other equipment can be demounted as well, but it costs 10 gold every time. If you have the net, repair kit and telescope you can mount it on every new tank and increase the chance for winning.
Economy knowledge makes the game easier and more enjoyable. If you play wot for more than a dozen hours, you will probably play the game for some time.
First you should decide on 2-3 paths that lead to tier 10 tanks that you have chosen. Save credits while waiting for discounts. You will be knocking stars every day (double experience for first battle won). Buy mostly tanks with discounts. Plan, what tanks will you buy in next 2-3 months so that you can buy equipment for them earlier when it is discounted. Use consumables bought with 50% price drop.
If you're not buying gold, you can get a small amount of it: rarely in missions, but it can be gained in offers of companies like Alienware and Razor, where sometimes all you must do is register to get 300 gold. More information about it can be found on worldoftanks.eu discussion board, youtube.com/user/hallack05 and other discussion boards and youtube channels. Free gold is sometimes added to products related to video games.
If you don't have much gold, first you spend it on training the crew when transferring them to other tank and for resetting crew abilities, of course only during the 50% discount. It is a waste to lose large amounts of experience by resetting with loss, for credits.
It is recommended to benefit from the 3 days premium for 250/350 gold when there are interesting missions/bonuses. Like when you have KV-1 or STUG 3 G in your garage and there are bonuses +50% credits for playing with tier 5 and triple experience for the crew. If you have gold and lots of free time, in one weekend you can earn few millions of credits and train your crew nice.
It is not recommended to spend gold on golden bullets or consumables.
When planning you mustn't forget about garage slots. It is sad when a tank you're interested in is discounted, you have enough credits but you can't buy it because you don't have any free slots. In such situation, you should sell a tier 5 tank, necessarily with stock modules (basic modules like gun or engine, available immediately after buying the vehicle), so that you wouldn't need to buy them again in the future with a loss. With the tank there won't be such troubles since you can use the 50% discount for buying it again. You send trained crew from the tank sold to the barracks.
Few times a year developer gives some "special" tanks for free or allows you to get them by completing short and easy missions. Most frequently those are tier 1-3 machines, rarer tier 4, that cannot be bought. Usually they aren't too good for playing, but thanks to such gifts after selling them you get a free garage slot and some credits.
- gold - currency in the game. Bought for real money.
- premium account - bought for gold for a limited time. Gives +50% more credits and experience for each game.
- gold ammo - ammunition that is many times more expensive that the standard one, that gives you greater penetration (and sometimes greater damage or larger damage radius in case of artillery).
- tier - tank level
- premium tank - a vehicle that can be bought only for gold or real money, sometimes gained in special missions or 3-4 times a year given away by developer (only weak low level tanks). He earns 50% more credits. Allows you to transfer crew without losing experience as long as it's the same tank class and nation. Usually plays only against tanks that have no more than 1 tier of difference.
- garage slot - place needed for new tanks. Available only for gold.
Mechanics - why we can't break it through? Certainly you heard a tank commander shouting these words, while the shells were just ricocheting on the enemy armor, inflicting no damage at all. After this chapter you'll learn how to shoot in World of Tanks, how damage is calculated plus some additional useful info.
There are two methods of aiming at the enemy in World of Tanks: manual and automatic. Automatic aiming is activated by pressing RMB by default after pointing your sight at enemy tank. It is disabled by pressing E key. After enabling auto-aiming our tank will be following the enemy, aiming at its middle - just pull the trigger to shoot at the current position of enemy tank. Unfortunately auto-aiming has many disadvantages: it doesn't take into account opponent's movement, so shots fired at the moving enemy almost always miss. In addition it tracks the target as long as it is visible - even if it hides behind the terrain obstacle. For this reason it is worth seeing where your opponent really is, before you waste ammo by shooting at hills or ruins on the way. Thirdly, shells are often fired at the most heavily armored part of the enemy vehicle. Despite above flaws, auto-aiming is sometimes used in shooting at still, poorly armed targets at long distance or during the circular fight, when you're mostly focused on driving than on firing accurate shots.
The second and also most commonly used method is manual aiming. In theory, just point your mouse cursor at the target, wait until the turret turns in that direction and press LMB. But in practice, during shooting, we have to consider several parameters. Tank guns available in the game differ between each other in the muzzle velocity of fired projectiles and their trajectories. For this reasons we have to learn when to fire to hit the opponent. If you shoot at the still target, it is enough to aim the tank and fire - the shell will hit the enemy directly. Unfortunately, it is more difficult with the moving target: we will have to predict the direction in which it will move and shoot with the lead. At this point the projectile speed is very important. German guns 8,8 cm PaK 43 L/71 have very high muzzle velocity, so you just aim in front of the enemy to hit him. On the other hand, projectiles fired from howitzers, like 152mm M-10, are much slower and require more corrections due to the speed of the target.
Shooting with the lead: 152mm howitzer (on the left) has to aim in front of the enemy, if it intends to hit the target.Manual aiming can be supported by sniper mode. It is activated by appropriate key (SHIFT by default) and the mouse scroll is used to select one of three zoom levels. Thanks to the sniper mode we can easier hit enemies moving at long distances and aim at weak points of enemy's armor. But sniper mode has also its drawbacks - eyeshot is limited, so after each shot you might check your opponents' positions on the map or switch it off and look around the area.
Each gun available in the game has its own accuracy (also called dispersion), given in meters over 100 meters distance. For example a gun with accuracy 0,35 m means, that most shells fired at the enemy, which is distant from us at 100 m, will land at 0,35 m from the middle of the sight.
How does it work in practice? During the game we're non-stop accompanied by a circle, which changes its size - this is dispersion of our gun. Its size is three times gun's accuracy, so in our example the dispersion's circle is 1,05 m. If we're standing still and shooting then each shell will land inside this circle with the majority of them landing close to its middle. Only several projectiles will end at the edge.
A chance to hit green area is 68%, yellow - 27% and red - 5%.Unfortunately, we are not always able to fire with all aiming devices fully contracted. Wounded crew, damaged gun, turning the turret, moving the tank or even a shot fired recently - all these things have a negative impact on our accuracy. Fortunately, there are few skills and assets available for the crew, which reduce above penalties.
In addition to the accuracy, aim time is also important. A number given in the game indicated how many seconds we need to reduce the sight circle to 1/3 of its initial value. But this doesn't always guarantee an accurate shot: if we were moving recently or were turning the turret, the total time needed to aim the target can be higher than the value shown in the gun's description.
Gun's dispersion with the sight fully contracted (on the left) and while moving (on the right).
We've aimed an enemy, fire a projectile and the only result is well known: "this can't break through!". This means that our shell didn't pierce enemy armor, thus inflicted no damage. But you should know why it happens and why shells with penetration of 106 mm bounce on the 100 mm steel armor of your enemy.
The first thing every tank commander has to remember, is that the effective armor of the area we're firing at, increases with the angle of shot. So if we're firing with very high impact angle, our chance to penetrate the armor, thus inflicting any damage to the enemy, drastically decreases.
Armor with thickness of 100mm with an impact angle of 40 equals to 131mm of steel.
The following table show how much armor thickness increases depending on the impact angle of out shot.
Impact angle
Effective armor thickness
0
100%
10
102%
20
106%
30
115%
40
131%
50
156%
60
200%
70
292%
>70
ricochet
As can be seen from the above example, armor with thickness of 100 mm, after shooting with impact angle of 40, will have effective thickness of 131 mm. That means that the shell with penetration of 106 mm will have no chance to deal any damage to our enemy. In addition it is worth noting, that the shell with impact angle greater than 70 will automatically ricochet. This can be used during the fight, which will be presented later in this guide.
PzKpfw VI Tiger (armor thickness of 100 mm), placed at an angle to our tank, will be protected against our gun with penetration of 106 mm.As if that were not enough, some tanks have several layers of armor (so called spaced armor). Hitting this kind of point may give us misleading information about opponent's vehicle state - gunner will confirm the penetration, but the enemy tank will not get any damage. Our shell will just penetrate weaker external armor but will rebound on the inner, significantly stronger one. So if we're fighting with the opponent equipped with such armor, we have two options: either use shells with high penetration value (it will penetrate both layers) or fire at other, weaker spots on enemy vehicle. Location of layered armor on various tanks will be discussed later in this guide.
Front of the T26E4 Super Pershing tank. Several layers of armor are visible.The last import and information relation to vehicles' armor penetration is penetration randomization. Values given in the gun's description are averaged: in fact, the ability of ammunition to penetrate the target is in the range from 75% to 125%. That means that our sample shell with penetration of 106 mm actually can have projection from 79,5 mm to 132,5 mm. Thus it can either ricochet on 80 mm armor or penetrate armor plate of 130 mm thickness. However these cases are so rare, that we can safely assume that we're only able to damage tanks protected by maximum of 100 mm of steel.
Ricochet on E-75 armor. This tank is placed at an angle and almost impossible to be penetrated.
Target at range, aim, fire! Penetration! But now it would be good to know what damage we can cause to the enemy with our shells.
Same as with the armor penetration, damage inflicted by our gun is averaged - actual values vary from 75% to 125% (exact range can be read by clicking RMB on our tank's ammo in the garage). Damage which can be inflicted depend both on the shell type we're using (armor piercing AP, subcaliber APCR, cumulative HEAT or high explosive HE) as well as on the area where we hit enemy tank.
Inflicted damage can be divided in two types: hull damage, which reduces hit points if the vehicle and "inside" damage of the crew and modules. If you use AP, APCR or HEAT shells, then penetration of enemy hull armor will reduce vehicle hit points with the listed damage +-25%. If we use HE shells and manage to penetrate enemy tank, damage is calculated identically as with other types of shells. But if the shell doesn't penetrate hull armor, we might still damage it seriously. In this case inflicted damage vary between 0 (small caliber HE shell hitting strongest armored part on enemy tank) and half of the gun's listed damage for that type of shells. In addition you should know, that explosion caused by HE shell will always try to "find" the weakest point at the enemy tank (in the range of the blast), so if you use it, it might be a good idea to aim at the top of the tank or sight.
Despite the fact, that the shell hit the hardest enemy armor, the blast wave got inside the vehicle through driver's vision slit (marked in green).Another type of possible inflicted damage is inside damage. All shells after penetrating the hull armor (or after explosion on its surface in case of HE shells), can injure the tank crew or destroy single modules as an engine or ammo rack. If the shell or the blast wave of HE shell hits the module, it not necessarily gets damaged. There exists so called "saving throw". Once it fails, the module get hit and eventually destroyed. The chances of damaging specific module are as follows:
Module
Chance of damage
Suspension
100%
Engine
45%
Fuel tank
45%
Observation device
45%
Radio
45%
Turret ring
45%
Gun
33%
Ammunition rack
27%
A damaged module is represented in yellow, while destroyed one - in red. Damaged modules can be fixed up to 100% by using special consumables (i.e. repair kits) or up to 50% by the crew, automatically. Damaged modules affect the entire tank as follows:
Module
Damaged
Destroyed
Suspension
Reduced maximum speed
Vehicle can't move
Engine
Reduced engine power, chance of fire
Vehicle can't move
Fuel tank
Higher chance of ire
Fire
Observation device
Reduced spotting range
Reduced spotting range
Radio
Reduced radio range
Reduced radio range
Turret ring
Reduced turret ring rotational speed
Turret ring blocked
Gun
Reduced aiming
You can't fire
Ammunition rack
Increased reload time
Vehicle explodes !
Hmmm, something broke...As for the crew, chances that each of tankers gets hit are 33% for AP, APCR and HEAT shells and 10% for HE shells. Unlike equipment, crew members can be only fully operative or knocked out.
Crew member
Knocked out
Commander
Reduced view range, deteriorated tank parameters
Gunner
Reduced aiming, increased aiming time
Driver
Reduced acceleration, poor mobility
Radio Operator
Reduced radio range
Loader
Increased reload time
In addition to destroying the tank by inflicting it sufficient damage points or by explosion of ammo rack, there is a third possibility: make the tank inoperable by knocking out all crew members. Once the tank loses its all tankers, it becomes inoperable even it has still hit points. Such vehicle is considered destroyed.
We know how to fire and how to inflict damage, but we still do not know what the factors on view range are and how to spot an enemy. In this chapter I'll try to explain this briefly.
In World of Tanks we distinguish Draw Distance and Spotting Range. First term describes a distance, from which we are able to see a tank model in the game. This value can be changed in game options and if your computer is powerful enough, I suggest setting it to high. Otherwise, players with maximum value of this option will have advantage over us.
Spotting range is a derivative of the view range, which can be checked in descriptions of tank and its turret. This value is modified by the commander's effective primary skill level, additional crew members' skills (Recon and Situational Awareness), and usage of equipment (Coated Optics and Binoculars) and after that it is modified by enemy's Camouflage. Such calculated spotting range is specific for each opponent and its position on the map. Since these calculations are quite complex and you need to take into account a number of variables, it is best to remember a few simple rules for spotting range in the game:
After shot, bushes/trees in 15 m range from our tank are no longer providing camouflage. More distant bushes and trees still reduced our detectability.In addition to spotting enemy by our vehicle, we can also get information about locations of other players with radio communication. A rule for that is simple: if our ally spots the enemy, it is enough that a distance between our tank and our ally's tank is less than the sum of respective radio ranges of both vehicles. Conclusion is simple: if we want to fire at greater distance or use the artillery, we have to install the best possible radio.
Vehicle A and B are communicating with each other, talking about enemy positions. HEAT is out of radio range, so it won't see tank positions spotted by A and B.Once you get familiar with in-game tutorial and complete all eight beginners missions (rewarded by one of the premium tanks available in the game), it is time to closer study vehicles available for us and to polish our skills as a tank commander.
These are first vehicles we get to know in World of Tanks. 1-2 tier light tanks are in most cases very slow and we can for them tactics for medium or heavy tanks. Later on they become faster, so starting with the 4 tier (in the case of French tanks - 5 tier) each nation has at least one fast vehicle acting as a scout tank. In this chapter I'll focus only on such machines.
A duel of light tanks. The winner will be able to continue reconnaissance and give advantage to its team.Despite the fact, that light tanks end up in battles with much more demanding opponents, which usually they can't even damage, have a huge impact on the fight and it is their actions which usually determines victory or defeat. Their primary function it to conduct reconnaissance and spot enemy position, allowing other players to eliminate opponents, using heavy tanks, tank destroyers and artillery. Due to high maximum speed, low weight, low silhouette and often a great view range, it is they who are most likely to perform these tasks.
How to play to maximize a light tank usage? First of all: do not die. Many beginners try to get the Scout achievement with the rapid rally toward enemy lines as soon as the game begins. Unfortunately, most of them get destroyed before they can see no more than 2-3 enemy tanks, without getting any experience points or credits. First scouting is useful on some maps, but it should be done with care: simply lean over the hill or slip between the buildings and then run away to the safe place. In this way we're able to spot several enemy vehicles while staying untouched and being ready to further actions.
A quick rally on the line of sight allows our team to fire at enemy with impunity. Another possibility is passive scouting. It involves rapid entering forward area and then hiding there and waiting for enemy. When we spot the opponent, we can't move at any reason: it would reduce a camouflage factor, thus exposing us to spotting and eliminating out machine. We should wait patiently until other tanks from our team eliminate the threat. An additional advantage is that we will get some experience points and credits that our team will win. If we would only spot the enemy and then get killed, this bonus is lost. Of course, when the backup doesn't appear, we should move back and support our team in a different place ... by spotting or even destroying enemy artillery for example. This is one of the most difficult task for the scout, because the artillery is hidden mostly on the rear and has the appropriate escort. But in the heat of the battle it might happen that the escort will move too far to the front and a lone scout can manage to break the front line and destroy the artillery.
One we get to the enemy rear, we can eliminate artillery threat.Depending on the light tank we're using, we can try to support our team in the direct fight. Vehicles such T-50-2, M24 Chaffee, VK 2801 or French light AMX's, have guns powerful enough to penetrate most of tanks from the side or behind, thus supporting their bigger "brothers" with firepower. In the situation, when we see one on one duel between medium or heavy tanks, we can always try to attack the enemy and turn the tide on our side. In many battles, especially those that take place in towns among the ruins, light tanks will be forced to such clashes and sometimes lives of other players in our team depends on us.
This is the most diverse group of vehicles available in World of Tanks. They are characterized by a high mobility, large view range, medium armor and a high firepower (especially 9-10 tiers). Among them we can distinguish tanks fighting on the front line (M4A3E2), "sniper" tanks (PzKpfw V Panther), scout (T20), as well as multitask basic tanks (T-54). Depending on the map we're fighting on and vehicles available for both sides, our role can vary dramatically from the one in the previous fight.
PzKpfw V Panther tries to flank enemy positions.One of the main tasks of medium tanks on every map, is to quickly secure routes and important sniper positions and destroying enemy scouts or forcing them to retreat. These initial maneuvers are intended to prepare the ground for heavy tanks and tank destroyers, which is the main attacking force in the next phase of the fight. Sample place, where clashes of medium tanks can determine the winning or losing, is a central hill on the Mines map or routes on the Mountain Pass map. In the battles with 8-10 tier machines, medium tanks often act as scouts together with (or instead of, depending on available vehicles) light tanks.
T-54 and M46 Patton acquire the hill before main forces of both teams appear there.Another role, which medium tanks share with light ones, is the need to provide a support for their bigger brother. Same as scouts, medium tanks should search for dueling heavy tanks and flank the enemy when possible. As a last resort, if we can't get the enemy from behind, we can try attacking frontally, leaning between shots and aiming at less-armored points and enemy armor. Most medium tanks have cannons so strong, that they are able to penetrate a front of heavy tank of the same tier. Due to the high rate of fire they are able to quickly eliminate the embattled enemy and break the front line, opening the way to the enemy lines.
One of maneuvers which use this firepower is making of so-called wolfpacks. During the II World War this term was used to define tactics of teams of submarines, but in World of Tanks it is mostly used to name a group of cooperating medium tanks. It is one of the most difficult to stop formations, because in addition to giant firepower, it has sufficient mobility to attack any point on the map. One of two methods to fight with wolfpacks is to force the enemy for frontal fight with heavy tanks, preferably in necking, where medium tanks won't be able to flank our forces. Another possibility is to early spot a forming wolfpack with scouts and attacking them with a vast number of vehicles to quickly break down the group, and thus eliminate the threat.
Maps shows to late detected wolfpack in sector A8 and its surroundings. In summary, as a medium tank driver we have probably biggest impact on the course of battle with all the players. It is up to us to success in the initial phase of the battle, when we spot the enemy and gain strategic positions. It is us, who decide about places of fights and how they progress. And it is us, who look for survivors or support the weaker flank. Well driven medium tanks guarantee victory in almost every battle.
The last type of turret vehicles is heavy tank. They form the armored fist of our team and it is up to them, whether the enemy will break the front line or will be blocked and destroyed by other machines. Heavy tanks have the thickest armor within all units available in the game, as well as big caliber cannons. For this reason they are perfectly suited to block passages and even entire parts of the battlefield - they can also slowly push opponent out of his positions. These are the only units capable to receive large amount of hits and maintain full combat prowess.
German heavy tank VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B is attacking enemy positions.Heavy tanks can be divided into two categories: heavy armored, slow giants (machined like IS-4, E-75 or Maus) and lighter, thus faster vehicles (IS-8, M103). First group mostly creates the center of the battlefield - they decide when to attack or when to start the retreat and the team should normally support their actions. A clash of two heavy tanks is very similar to the dual of two battleships: it is long shoot-out, where not each volley deals damage. Therefore to break down a line defended by number of such vehicles, you we must flank them or use the artillery. Frontal attack on position defended by heavy tanks, without using any support, mostly ends tragically with death on the foreground.
That's how frontal attack on group of heavy tanks supported by artillery ends. A second group of heavy tanks is vehicles used to flank enemies and break down enemy lines. Machines such IS-3, IS-7 or M103 are so fast, that they can both support attack of medium tanks and break down weaker defended enemy lines. In some cases you can even try to organize them in wolfpack and destroy entire flank of enemies. After that we could try to surround the rest of slower vehicles. Using some of tactics available for medium tanks is recommended in this case.
Operating the heavy tank, we have always remember that we start each offensive action, therefore the driver must have both excellent knowledge on positions of all vehicles on the map (both allies and enemies) and must quickly determine if he got enough firepower to break down enemy lines. It is not possible to describe every situation on the battlefield, but it is possible to show some sample cases, which can happen quite regularly during the battle. One of the frequent situations: the opponent has less tanks than we do, they are the like tier. Beginners often continue the shoot-out staying behind the cover, afraid to lose hundreds of hit points, which is only advantage for the opponent. We can't think only locally - we have to get the view of entire battlefield. If our 6 tanks are blocked by 3 enemy vehicles, it means that somewhere else the opponent has an advantage of 12 to 9. In this case, the most reasonable solution is to get out from behind the cover taking several hits and then quickly approach the opponent and use the preponderance in the fight on less than 50 meters range. It is quite possible that such action will cost us one vehicle, but thanks to that we'll get rid of three opponents and open the way to its back.
With the preponderance in heavy tanks we can perform a frontal attack and break down the enemy lines.Another situation is a reverted previous example - the enemy outnumbers us. In this case it is useless to have a shoot-out, because in general we have less hit points than our enemy. So it is better to retreat and place our tanks in such way, that only one enemy tank is able to fight with several our machines. This is mostly useful in urban maps or mountain passes, where there enemy can't take advantage of his manpower superiority. The enemy of course will try to surround us: we counter attack his actions by firing at tracks or suspension springs. If we block the tank leading the attack, the rest of opponents will stuck behind him.
Two heavy tanks and two damaged tracks. Enemy attack stopped.Heavy tanks not always have possibility to take part in every fight on the map and they often have to sacrifice for the team. But they are the core of the team and often force enemy to change his tactics and attack route. Experienced commander of a heavy tank will often command the fight on his part of the map and determine tactics for other groups. So we're leading lighter vehicles, we should listen to his commands and cooperate with him - it leads to quick victory.
If playing the games, you prefer to be a sniper, lurking for your enemy in bushes, then tank destroyers are perfect for you. With disadvantage of less hit points that other tanks of the same tier, these machines get the access to the most powerful cannons in the game and (mostly) have best camouflage factor, allowing them firing from hiding.
Hidden Ferdinand and Jagdpanther are waiting for targets. Firepower of both vehicles can damage and even destroy some of heavy tanks. Tank destroyers, as the name indicates, are primarily used for rapid destroying of armored targets. However, in this case, we have to remember one important thing: they are not first line tanks. Even if they have very thick front armor, these vehicles should fight at long distance, because at the short distance they can be easily flanked and destroyed. In addition, detected tank destroyed always becomes a tempting target for enemy artillery, so therefore we have to look for sheltered location, away from the front lines. Once we find a good position, there is nothing else but activating the sniper mode and waiting for an enemy.
Tank destroyers are the foundation of a good defense. Set 400-500 meters behind the main front line, they are almost impossible to detect, and in the same time they can hold enemy at bay, stopping every opponent, courage enough to get closer. Thanks to large caliber of installed cannons, several destroyers working together can even destroy one heavy tank in one shot. As the tactics of commanding such vehicles is quite simple and gives tangible results, the question remains: how to fight against them? There are several methods to destroy tank destroyer. One of them is effective reconnaissance connected with shelling detected vehicles. Due to the weak top armor, most tank destroyers can be turned into a flaming wreck with only one good hit. Another method is to flank enemy positions. Apart from few exceptions, most of tank destroyers have cannon mounted in the hull, so it is just enough to place our medium tank at destroyer's side and we can shoot it with impunity. The third and the most risky method is a frontal attack. In this case it is best to fight at a short distance, making sure that tank destroyer doesn't hide from our shots. Most important thing is to attack as soon as we reload. Playing "shot for shot" will probably end in out defeat.
Well positioned tank destroyers can completely block the flank. One of opponent's vehicles has discovered it right now.
Self-propelled guns, commonly called artillery, allow you to fire at enemy while being hidden far behind front line. In most cases drawing makes only few of these vehicles available on the battlefield, but it must be taken into account that even just one machine can completely change the battle result.
Russian S-51 is looking for its next target. This vehicle does not have to hit the target: the explosion of a projectile is able to destroy some of the lighter machines.The first and most important feature of artillery is the ability to fire over allies, hitting enemies hidden away behind hills or ruins. In order to fire such shot just activate sniper mode (SHIFT key by default), so we will see entire battlefield in bird's-eye view. This mode (also called Strategic View Mode) allows us to shoot at enemy wherever he is placed on the battlefield. In addition we get a new indicator that makes aiming easier - this is a line from our tank to the middle of the sight. Depending on its current color, we will know when our shot is blocked (red) or when we're able to directly hit the enemy (green). It is also worth to remember yet another relationship: the sight changes its shape along with increasing distance from the target. If it is elongated, it means that opponent is pretty close and we have the best chance to hit him. Round sight means that we're almost out of range and shells can fall down on both sides of enemy vehicle and flattened sight symbolizes maximum range for our fire. For this reason, despite the possibility of covering the entire battlefield from the starting place, it is good to change our position from time to time, to increase our chances to hit.
Artillery sight shape depending on the distance: short, medium, maximum range. The last photo shows the effect of terrain obstacles on the accuracy of fire.There are several important tasks for self-propelled guns during the battle. First of all, they must focus on damaging or destroying hardest armored enemy tanks. Even best defended position can be taken after softening it with artillery fire. On the other hand, a massive defensive fire of self-propelled guns is able to break down any offensive and force attackers to retreat. Another equally important task is to destroy enemy artillery positions. There are two ways to do it. First and easiest one is to follow our scout and attack detected self-propelled guns. Unfortunately not always our light tank is able to get to enemy rear lines. Then we have to use more difficult method called counter-artillery/counter-arty. In this case we have to excellently know the current map and where the enemy artillery usually is placed. Then we activate sniper mode, point the sight on the area where enemy artillery resides and ... wait. When we see the enemy shell trace, we point the sight to its end and fire. With any luck after few second we will get confirmation of hitting enemy vehicle and see burning wreckage. But we have to remember that the enemy will also hunt for our artillery. There is one fairy simple method to avoid counter-fire: right after starting shooting we have to move few meters forwards or backwards, because undetected and mobile artillery is very difficult target to hit.
A brief pictorial history of counter-artillery: after detecting enemy shell trace, we fire at him caliber 155 mm gift. The moral of this is: always change your position after firing.Self-propelled guns are most important vehicles in the team, thus protecting them and detecting and destroying enemy artillery positions should be a priority in every battle. Most players believe that playing as artillery is not fair or is very simple - but they could not be more wrong. Using artillery is quite safe, because mostly the entire team protects us, but the difference between beginner and experienced commander is colossal. Beginners usually select the easiest targets to destroy and despite earning several kills they lose battles. Experienced tankers aim not at easiest targets, but at most valuable ones: damaging PzKpfw VI Tiger tank is more important than destroying PzKpfw IV for example. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict every situation which can happen during the game, thus it is impossible to create a list of vehicles to be destroyed in proper order. At this point I can give only general tip: always destroy enemy artillery first, after that - tank destroyers and later on - heavy, medium and light tanks.
The last group, which I decided to separate from other vehicles, is premium tanks. These machines can be only bought by gold won in competitions organized by Wargaming.net or purchased by real money. In some cases we can obtain them as a bonus for using special code or completing the tutorial. Main feature of premium tanks is reduced repair costs and increased credits after the battle.
Type 59 - goose with golden eggs. With a premium tank in the garage we can stop worrying about lack of credits.Premium vehicles are present in all possible varieties: there are light tanks, as well as medium and heavy tanks, tank destroyers and artillery. Playing them doesn't differ from the rules given earlier along with the description of other types of machines. Many players wrongly believe that vehicles available after purchasing them with gold, are stronger than their normal counterparts. Fortunately this is not true. All premium tanks performance can be placed between newly purchased and vehicles and ones developed to maximum, available for credits. For example T34 (American 8 tier premium tank) is driven similar to T32: they have many things in common, but in the long run the vehicle available for credits, fully developed, is far more powerful opponent. Same thing is with Lwe and PzKpfw VIB Tiger II and infamous Type59 and Russian T-44. In all these examples, fully developed tanks, available in research tree, are more powerful than their counterparts bought with gold. So what is the point of having them? The answer is shown in the previous paragraph: increased credits earning. When we want a quick burst of cash, we just play a few battles with the premium tank instead of playing several dozen games with a normal vehicle. More detailed information on specific vehicles can be found later in this guide.
Starting positions in this map are divided by a wide strip of open land. This map is often called Campinovka, which is due to the fact that the tactics often deployed here is firing, across the land, from a hidden tank, at the opposing team's players. There are many hills on this map, from behind which to stick the turret itself, as well as forests ideal for destroying tanks. The key element on the map is the hill in the top-right corner of the map, whose seizing ensures, to a large extent, victory, because you can then flank the enemy, hidden at the base, from the East.
The size of the map: 1000m X 1000m
Camouflage type: Summer
The basic positions for scouts.The main role of the light tanks on this map is that of the scout. A good scout can tip the scales, to a considerable extent, to the advantage of his squad. The basic positions for passive reconnaissance are the ones marked on the map above. You need to reach there as soon as possible, so that the players in your squad, who remained at the base, see the targets highlighted by you.
Position no. 1
PROS
CONS
- the most effective spot for scouting
- you can detect all the vehicles at the enemy base
- the most exposed position
- you may encounter an enemy in the same position
- you can be spotted by a tank rolling below
- under no circumstances, should you fire
Position no. 2
PROS
CONS
- potentially safe
- you can detect both the vehicles coming up the hill and the ones staying behind the house on the East
- less effective than Position no. 1
- you cannot fire
- you can be detected by a scout on his way to position no. 3, or by the tanks that attack from the swamps, alongside the lake
Position no. 3
PROS
CONS
- you can detect tanks coming up the hill and the ones crossing the village
- you can fire at the tanks on the hill
- you can be spotted and destroyed by a vehicle going along the upper side of the lake (more about this in the "Unconventional tactics" chapter)
Medium tank tactics.The mission of the medium tank is, predominantly, to seize the hill. This is the key element that determines victory. Medium tanks can relatively quickly reach the hill and secure the area. While playing with a medium tank, you should never stay at the base.
Heavy tank tactics.The main task of heavy tanks is to defend the base and help medium tanks seize the hill. The slower tanks should stay put in the base and defend it, whereas the faster ones may serve as a support for the squad attempting to seize the hill, or go to the village as a group. It is the more dangerous of options, but it sometimes proves to be very effective. In the village, hide behind buildings and fire at the vehicles on the hill, and in the forest to the North of the map.
Tank destroyer tactics.Positions for the destroyers have been marked on the map above. Firing zones have been marked with arrows.
The task for tank destroyers is to destroy enemy tanks staying on the hill, in the village and the ones going across the swamp, alongside the lake. After the hill has been lost, destroyers should retreat and serve as a support to the tanks that stayed at the base.
Unconventional tactics for base I
On a vehicle with a well armored turret, you can quickly drive, through the Southern part of the map, and hide behind the hill, while exposing the turret only. From this position, you can detect all of the tanks at the enemy base and, additionally, lay fire down on them.
Unconventional tactics for base IIWhile on a quick vehicle, you can drive across the shallow, alongside the Northern side of the lake, expose the turret and fire at the enemy's destroyers in the nearby forest.
In the middle of the map, there is a big abbey, surrounded with developments, through which you can launch a high-speed attack. Securing the abbey may be an important element that leads to victory. At the eastern side of the abbey, there also is a road that can be used to ride around the buildings and flank the enemy. At your disposal, there also is the canyon on the West, which provides cover from artillery fire, as well as a road alongside the cliff to the east. The bases are located on hillocks, which allows for effective defense.
The size of the map: 1000m X 1000m
Camouflage type: Summer
The basic positions for scouts.On the Abbey map, light tanks are, predominantly, responsible for active reconnaissance - detection of the enemy at the bottom of the canyon and o the cliff. There are also positions for passive reconnaissance - they have been marked on the map above. The main task of light tanks is to show your team the route that the main enemy forces are taking. To conduct a good reconnaissance, You need to secure the abbey as quickly as possible, which will provide enough range of vision to detect the enemy forces in motion.
Medium tank tactics.The main task of the medium tanks is to secure the abbey, from where to conduct effective fire at the enemy units. The important task is also to serve as support to heavy tanks of your squad, which fight in the canyon. After you have secured the abbey, you can shoot at the tanks on the Eastern side of the canyon. Also, from the abbey, while on a medium tank, you can support your units that defend the base because the attacking enemy (who approaches from the canyon or from the cliff) is turned with its side, or the back to you. While moving among the buildings, you are protected from artillery fire.
Heavy tank tactics.The task of heavy tanks is to secure the canyon on the West and attack from the cliff on the East. After you have secured the area, you can attack the enemy base, while flanking the defending vehicles, at the same time. You need to watch out for the tanks in the abbey, which you are turned with your side, or with your back, at. A quite interesting tactic is, after you have secured the canyon, destroying tanks in the abbey, while staying in the canyon. While playing with a heavy tank, you need to watch out for artillery, which is mainly focused on firing at the cliff and the canyon.
Tank destroyer tactics.The task of tank destroyers is to defend the base. The main positions have been marked on the map above. The arrows represent the possible places for conducting fire. While staying at the base, you can use thickets next to the building, and from there, conduct an effective defense of the base, against the vehicles crossing the abbey grounds. After you secure the canyon, you can move your destroyer to the positions marked on the map and serve as a support for your units trying to secure the enemy's base.
In the middle of the map, there is a lake, which is quite considerable in its size. In the North-Western part of the map, there is a city and, on the South-Western side, there is a railway bridge. On the map, there are only two directions of attack - through the railway bridge and across the city. The city ensures heavy tanks with protection against artillery fire, whereas the bridge allows for a quick attack, with medium tanks, on the enemy base.
The size of the map: 1000m X 1000m
Camouflage type: Summer
The basic scouting positionsReconnaissance on the Live Oaks map is mainly based on the active one, the positions for which have been marked on the map above. The scouts' task is to spot tanks in the city and on the bridge, to make quick fire, from tank destroyers, possible. A scout should not allow himself to be destroyed too quickly, because he will be needed by the squad, on this map, throughout the entire battle.
Medium tank tactics.The task of the medium tanks is to attack the enemy base through the railway bridge. This attack is based, mainly on sticking out from behind a natural obstacle, taking a shot at the tank highlighted by the scout and hiding again to reload. Medium tanks can also help the squad in the city, but this is recommendable only if you are at an advantage there, and the way through the bridge is well-guarded. After the enemy has secured the city, medium tanks should defend the base from their positions on the railway embankments, while staying out of reach of the enemy vehicles.
Heavy tank tactics.Heavy tanks should secure the city, as quickly as possible, where they can hide from artillery ire and attack from the enemy base. After the city is secured, the scout should detect the positions of the enemy destroyers, after which the heavy tanks destroy the detected vehicles. After that, you can easily attack the base, while taking precautions against destroyers and medium tanks, staying behind the embankment and buildings. While crossing an open area, you should do this as quickly as possible, because you then become an easier target for both the artillery and the tanks protecting the base.
Tank destroyer tactics.The main tactic for tank destroyers is laying fire down on the enemy units that enter the city or go across the railway bridge. The positions in which you are supposed to conduct fire against the enemy units, have been marked on the map above. Once the enemy secures the city, tank destroyers should retreat to the buildings near the base and put up an effective defense from there. The important element, which allows for the effectiveness of tank destroyers, is a well-conducted active reconnaissance.
Once we decide what style of play suits us, it is time to polish our skills. I'll try to present here some tips which make playing the game easier: they relate both to user interface settings as well as matching the vehicle to our team. I'll also show some more advanced maneuvers useful on battlefield.
World of Tanks has many different options that affect both game look as well as the gameplay. With pressing ESC key and then selecting Settings option, we're moved to the GAME menu. In order to make the gameplay easier, I suggest unchecking option Enable vehicle vibration in Sniper Mode and checking Enable battle recording. Battles will be saved in the game directory, in replays subdirectory. You can watch them at any time. Just quit the World of Tanks and double click on particular file.
Another very useful change in the interface, is correct setting of markers. These are all symbols that appear above tanks in the game. We do this in MARKER tab. I suggest using following settings:
For the alternative view (activated with ALT key):
These setting allow receiving maximum information in the shortest possible time. All the time we see amount of enemy HP (this allows us to easily see if the next shot will destroy him) and the type of the tank, which helps us to cover the situation on the battlefield. Thanks to ALT key we get the name of enemy tank user (useful in coordinating attacks with the rest of the team) and highlight the wrecks, so we know which vehicles are eliminated and are no longer a threat.
Another useful information is the way, in which World of Tanks selects players to the team. Beginner tankers playing with their friends often complain that their vehicle is not able to damage enemy machines, because they are too high tier. Usually the guilty one is game built-in matchmaking system, which selects players to opposing teams. Within this mechanism each tank in the game has so called battle tier: for example for the heavy tank PzKpfw VI Tiger it is 7-9. That means that it can encounter only opponents with same battle tier. The weakest opponents we encounter in this way will be medium 5 tier tanks (KV-1, Pzkpwf IV) and the strongest - 9 tier tanks (E-75 or IS-8). Problem appears when we want to play with friend in a weak tank: in this case battle tier of our platoon will be the same as the highest battle tier within grouped tanks.
Usually tanks are able to fight with opponents of +-2 levels (as in the above example with PzKpfw VI Tiger). However some vehicles have a much wider range of battle tiers available for them: both artillery and light tanks often encounter opponents of 4 levels higher. This is mainly because of their usability in fights of stronger vehicles, because even low tier light tank can carry out an effective scouting and low tier artillery is able to critically damage a heavy tank.
Discussion on more advanced tactics should be started with presenting weak points on the enemy armor, the general positions of modules inside the tank and methods of eliminating enemies from the battle.
None of tanks available in the game is homogeneous body of steel. Depending on the section we shoot at, the armor thickness can vary in a large range. For example the front plate of KV-4 tank has given thickness of 180 mm, but in practice there are some places on it, which can be break though with cannon of 120 mm penetration, such as machine gun stand and driver's sight. Basically all tanks available in the game share some weak points. These are: bottom front plate, side armor between tracks, rear armor, commander's cupola and rear of the turret. There are exceptions from this rule, but in most cases a shot in such places, even against higher tier vehicles, should guarantee penetration.
Another important information is location of modules inside the vehicles. Unfortunately, in this case practically almost each tank has different distribution of the equipment inside the hull. Only common and most important elements are: cannon, engine and ammo rack. The cannon is easiest to find and doesn't require any further comments. Just hit it with HE shells and sooner or later it will be damaged, thus reducing enemy accuracy or eliminating him from shoot-out - this is an effective method of getting rid of tanks, which we are not able to damage in any other way. The engine is usually located at the rear, therefore by flanking the enemy we might try to shoot at its rear, increasing our chances to set the enemy on fire. In case of German tanks we also could try to shoot the bottom front plate, hoping for the same effect. The last important module is ammo rack. As we know from previous chapter, damaging it increases cannon reload time and destroying it results in spectacular explosion of the enemy. The ammo rack is usually located under the tank turret or (in case of Soviet vehicles) also in its rear part. If we're armed with large-caliber cannon, we should aim at these points and hope for destroying the enemy with one shot.
Typical ammo rack location (white) and engine location (red) in most tanks.The last element which is common for all machines are tracks. We should master the art of damaging them, because in many cases the immobilized tank equals destroyed tank. The surest way to stop the enemy is to fire at frontal or rear drive wheel/idler. Unfortunately they are not always visible - in that case we have to shoot tracks from the front, but it often happens that the shell hits and doesn't do any damage. Indeed, this is one of tactics used by Soviet and American commanders. Since the tracks hit doesn't influence tank's HP, placing the vehicle at slight angle to the enemy makes at least some shots harmless. Same tactics can be used in case of German tanks, but it is more risky. Due to high sides, which can be damaged, we must choose wisely the angle at which we set our tank towards the enemy.
The opponent facing the tank set at the angle - he can choose whether shoot at the front (in this case more durable) or tracks. At this setting tracks of M103 are not penetrable.An extension of this tactics is the method of leaning out from behind buildings or ruins. Most of beginners move perpendicular to the opponent, getting shot in the front wheel, thus losing HP and risking breaking the tracks and another series of attacks at the exposed fragment. Proper attack from behind the building should be carried out diagonally with front plate set at the high angle to opponent. Thanks to that, there is a high chance that first enemy shots will ricochet on our armor, making the counterattack possible. After that we should retreat behind the cover. Third method is to set our tank with its side at very high angle, accord to the rule described in previous paragraph. All we risk then is to get hit at tracks and immobilization, but subsequent shots should not cause any harm.
One incorrect and two correct methods of leaning out from behind the corner of the building.Another maneuver very popular among some (especially American) commanders is so called hull down position. We set the tank behind terrain obstacle or a wreckage in the way that only turret is visible. Because American tanks such T29 or T32 have quite vulnerable hulls and almost indestructible turret, it is natural to attempt using all advantages, while hiding flaws. A tank set in such position is one of the toughest enemies do eliminate, because as opposed to the vehicle hidden behind the building's corner, it is able to keep observing the field and carry out the shoot-out. One of methods to deal with such opponent, available only in close range, is to shoot at vulnerable turret points. Hitting commander's cupola or weaker armored points on the front can inflict enough damage to destroy the enemy or force him to retreat. At longer distance the fight with such opponent is more difficult, if not impossible. We can try to use HE shells, but due to small amount of damage inflicted and limited amount of shells we can have, usually the better idea is to find another way around and try to flank the enemy. As a last resort, if we outnumber opponents, we can try to ride over the battlefield and fight on the close range.
Favorite American tankers maneuver. In this case, the best way is to find another way to attack.The last type of maneuvers popular among tankers is so-called "hugging": facehug or sidehug. Frontal contact of two tanks in most cases turns into shooting duel: this player who is able to better penetrate enemy turret - wins. One of the best vehicles for such clashes is American heavy tanks, Soviet IS series heavy tanks and German E-75. During these duels both sides try to penetrate weak points on enemy tanks, which can be avoided by rapid turnover of the hull and turret. Soviet tanks, thanks to their low profile, can be easily hit at the commander's cupola. On the other hand IS-3 or IS-8 can use their small size and after sudden withdrawal, fire at the front plate of the enemy.
Cases of sidehug are much less common, but effective against some vehicles. For example German super heavy tank Maus is very vulnerable for such type of maneuver carried out by low medium tanks like T-54. Due to highly mounted turret, it is not able to hit its opponent and thereby it can be easily destroyed.
American tanks are simply designed to hug the enemy: their only weak point is the commander's cupola.
This sentence may sound a little strange to some players, but still worth repeating: in the bottom right corner of the interface is a map of current battlefield, where we are fighting now. If it is not visible, press M to activate it. + and - keys zoom in and out respectively. Each type of vehicles available in the game has its own symbol on the map:
Vehicle
Symbol
Light tank
Medium tank
Heavy tank
Tank destroyer
Self-propelled gun
The map is one of the most important sources of information about current situation on the battlefield. To take full advantage of it, you need to have the best available radio and the price we pay for it will return immediately. It is thanks to map that we are able to quickly determine which points need our support, which flank is too weak to stop the enemy or what is estimated location of enemy tank destroyers and artillery. By using combination of CTRL and LMB on the map we send ping to all allies which should call their attention on given square. It would be best to use the built-in chat to determine enemy forces in given point, right after we determine their positions. This information will allow our allies to take defensive or offensive action, because as mentioned earlier, knowledge about enemy forces location is essential for success in World of Tanks.
We use the map from the battle begin. It needs just few seconds to determine points where our allies driving to, what will allow us to strengthen weak points (if we play typically defensive vehicle) or support the offensive (if we play medium tank for example). It is worth to use the first moments of the battle to block all possible passages for enemy scouts and defend artillery. If the attack is not carried out in within about 2 minutes, we can leave defending of self-propelled guns to other vehicles and move to the fight. At this point it is worth reminding that the artillery is most important and we can't leave it without any protection. If we play on the map with limited paths of attacks (Sand River for example), we can try to move to more forward position. In case of more open maps (like Live Oaks) artillery should always count on support of other tanks.
Once we take care about the artillery, it is time to prepare to fight with basic enemy units. It often happens, that players group most of their forces in one point and then move this cluster toward enemy positions. This tactics is effective only if all tanks are able to attack the enemy simultaneously. Unfortunately, beginners are often afraid to take few hits and attack the enemy alone. In this case they lose all the advantage of having more tanks than the enemy. This mistakenly used tactics is called lemming rush, because usually it ends in defeat of the entire team. All players which take part in it are almost always "sentenced to death". Why? Suppose that group of 12 tanks moves in one direction to attack. By using the maneuvers previously described in this guide (shooting at tracks, correct setting of the hull), this attack can be blocked by using only 8 vehicles, forcing the enemy to attack alone. Other 6 vehicles can be used to break through poorly defended (or even undefended) flank and then capture the enemy flag or surround main enemy forces and destroy them in cross fire.
The above example shows us also, that the main task is to balance our forces on all front lines, since breaking it in even one point can lead to domino effect - other lines will be flanked and destroyed. Assuming that both sides set their vehicles on the battlefield evenly: hot to carry out the attack? In this case mainly individual skills of tankers count - ability to set the tank at the proper angle or knowledge about weak points of the enemy. A bit of luck also come in handy - accidental destroying the tank by blowing up its ammo rack can often break the deadlock. Once we get enough advantage in HP over the enemy, we can try more risky maneuvers, intended to breaking the front line faster which will allow us to flank remaining enemy forces and win the battle.
Tactics described here, which can be summed up as stop-flank-destroy, is the general example of gameplay in World of Tanks. This scheme works on most of available maps, but sometimes you have to improvise and invent new, more risky maneuvers. It is this way, when you can recognize a good commander: he is not afraid of new challenges and his commands, which even may seem illogical, ultimately lead to victory. Later on I'll try briefly describing tactics adapted to specific maps, which will allow polishing our leadership and individual skills.
Both trained crew and properly selected equipment have gigantic influence on our performance on the battlefield. The tank with rookies will be slower, longer reload the cannon after the shot or have less accuracy than the one with experienced tankers. Additional elements like Camouflage Net or Binocular Telescope even more enlarge these differences. In the below chapter I'll put information on crew training and selecting proper equipment in order to increase our effectiveness on the battlefield.
Each tank in World of Tanks requires the full crew for maintenance. When we purchase new vehicle we can automatically recruits for it a crew on three different training levels or assign the new machine to existing crew. Our tankers will gain experience points in fights, which will increase their level and can be used to learn new perks and skills. Crew members have 5 specializations:
In some cases (French AMX 50 100 for example), one person has two functions: in this case the commander is also a loader. If he gets one of perks available for second specialization, the after switching to other vehicle, where one of tankers is only a loader (like in AMX M4(1945)), commander won't be able to use previously learned skill). It is worth noting that tank statistics, indicated in the garage are calculated for the crew on 100% of experience level.
The crew can be moved freely between two tanks of the same nation, but if it won't be trained to use the new machine, that there will be some penalties affecting its experience level (25% means that the tanker with 80% of experience level will have 60% of experience level in the new vehicle):
Vehicle
Penalty
Same class, premium vehicle
0%
Same class, no premium vehicle
25%
Other class, premium vehicle
25%
Other class, no premium vehicle
50%
In order to compensate above penalties, we could re-train the crew for the new machine. Tankers will lose a bit of their experience but will be able to quickly catch up:
School
Price
Training level
Tank Academy
200 gold
100%
Regimental School
20000 credits
Same class of the vehicle: 90%
Another class of the vehicles: 80%
Minimum level of experience 75%
Rapid Courses
free
Same tier of the vehicle: 80%
Another class of the vehicles: 60%
Minimum level of experience 50%
We can also hire fresh recruits. They can start their work on one of three experience levels:
School
Price
Training level
Tank Academy
200 gold
100%
Regimental School
20000 credits
75%
Rapid Courses
free
50%
Choice between re-training and hiring new recruits usually depends on the final experience level of our tankers. In later stages of the game, when we have better tanks and our crew has few additional skills and perks, we will only re-train it for the new vehicle.
Each crew member after reaching 100% of experience level can start learning skills which provide bonuses even during training and perks, which start working only when they reach 100%. These abilities have additional impact on our vehicle, increasing tank performance above values given in the garage. Below you'll find the list of all skills and perks available in the game, along with their description:
Skill
Role
Description
RepairAll
Improves repair of damaged modules. Average level of entire crew is taken.
CamouflageAll
Improve camouflage factor of the vehicle. Average level of entire crew is taken.
FirefightingAll
Improves ability of putting out a fire and reduces amount of damage taken by vehicle during the fire. Average level of entire crew is taken.
MentorCommander
It gives additional experience points for all crew members except Commander. Each 1% of this skill results in 0.1% additional experience points for the crew (10% max).
ReconCommander
Increases view range of o 0.02% per level (2% max)
Jack of All TradesCommander
Enables the Commander to fill in for knocked-out crew members. Effective experience equals 0.5% per level (50% max). When there is more than one knocked-out tanker, experience points are divided evenly between their roles.
ArmorerGunner
Reduces the accuracy penalty from a damaged cannon by 0.2% per level (20% max)
Snap ShotGunner
Reduces the accuracy penalty during turret rotation and gun movement by 0.075% per level (7.5% max)
Controlled ImpactDriver
Decreases ramming damage to our vehicle and increases ramming damage to an enemy vehicle by 0.15% per level (15% max). It doesn't apply when an enemy vehicle is stationary.
Off-Road DrivingDriver
Reduces the maneuverability and acceleration penalties due to soft terrain by 0.1% per level (10% max ) and due average terrain by 0.025% per level (2.5% max).
Smooth RideDriver
Reduces the accuracy penalty applied to a moving vehicle by 0.04% per level (4% max). It doesn't apply to rotation of the vehicle, but only to forward and backward movement.
Clutch BreakingDriver
Increases vehicle rotation speed by 0.05% per level (5% max)
Situational AwarenessRadio Operator
Increases view range by 0.03% per level (3% max)
Signal BoostingRadio Operator
Increases signal range by 0.2% per level (20% max)
RelayingRadio Operator
Increases signal range of allied communications within our vehicle's radio coverage by 0.1% per level (10% max)
Perk
Role
Description
Brothers in ArmsAll
Increases each major Qualification, as well as Repair, Camouflage and Firefighting skills by 5%. All crew members have to have this perk!
Sixth SenseCommander
Allows knowing if the vehicle has been detected by enemy. It has 3 seconds delay. It doesn't inform us, whether the enemy can still see us.
Eagle EyeCommander
Allows identifying the critical damage of targeted vehicle. It has 4 seconds delay.
Designated targetGunner
Makes targeted enemy vehicles visible for two more seconds. It doesn't work in strategic view.
DeadeyeGunner
Increases the chance to critically damage enemy vehicle modules or crew with AP, APCR, HEAT shells. Doesn't work with HE shells.
Preventative MaintenanceDriver
Reduces the chance of engine fire by 25%.
IntuitionLoader
Creates 17% chance that the correct type of shell is already loaded during the switch of shells types.
Adrenaline RushLoader
Shortens reload time by 9.1% if the vehicle has less than 10% HP.
Safe StorageLoader
Increases ammo rack durability by 12.5%.
Call for VengeanceRadio Operator
If radio operator has survived the destruction of his vehicle, he will report enemy positions for two more seconds.
These are additional modules, which we can buy and install in our vehicle in order to increase its effectiveness on the battlefield. Equipment is divided into removable (Camouflage Net, Binocular Telescope, Toolbox) and permanent. Demounting of the latter costs 10 gold.
Equipment
Description
Camouflage Net+25% to camouflage factor when the tank hull is stationary for 3 seconds (we can turn the turret).
Binocular Telescope+25% to view range, when the tank hull is stationary for 3 seconds (we can turn the turret).
Toolbox+25% modules repair speed.
Spall LinerIncreases armor thickness by 15% when calculating splash damage from HE shells and ramming damage.
Cyclone FilterIncreases engine HP by 50%.
"Wet" Ammo RackIncreases ammo rack HP by 50%.
Fill Tanks with CO2Increases fuel tank HP by o 50%.
Enhanced SuspensionIncreases suspension load limit by 10% and suspension HP by 30%
Gun/Shell RammerShortens loading time by 10%.
Enhanced Gun Laying DriveShortens aiming time by 10%.
Vertical StabilizerReduces accuracy penalties while in movement or during turret turn by 20%. That means that a circle showing our cannon's accuracy is smaller by 20%. Size when fully aimed remains unaffected.
Coated OpticsIncreases view range by 10%.
Additional GrousersIncreases mobility on soft terrain by 10% and on average terrain by 5%.
Improved ventilationIncreases effective experience level and skill level for all crew members by 5%.
We already know the mechanics in World of Tanks, few maneuvers and tactical tricks. We know how our equipment works and what to expect from our crew. So it is time to know machines, which we can command in the game. In this chapter I would like to briefly describe vehicles available in the game, taking into account most important information whether it is possible, such as armor thickness, weak points, special features, and tips on driving and how to fight against particular tank.
Before we go any further, we should remember one more advice: having a higher tier tank doesn't mean that we can earn credits easier or win more fights. Each tank has its individual conversion factor for earned credits, thus after two fights in which we've dealt same amount of damage, we could have quite different results. Generally tier 1-4 tanks earn enough credits to buy a higher tier vehicle with no problems. 5-6 tiers have the best ratio of gaining credits in the game - it is worth to have at least one such machine in our garage to get credits with it. Machines on higher tiers (7-10) can make money, but mostly it depends on player's experience and tank's equipment level. Most beginners will only lose money on them.
We also need to know, that even if we have higher tier tank, we will not win fights automatically. Unfortunately the machine won't win the battle itself, and there are many veteran players who are in the game world for several months or years. Their skills are so high that they can defeat a stronger opponent even without losing single HP. Thus it is important to familiarize with all vehicles: both in lower and higher tiers, to know their strengths and weaknesses.
German vehicles are ones of the most frequently used tanks in the game, which is why getting acquainted with their characteristic features of this nation's tanks, as well as with the variety of vehicles available in the game.
We will start our adventure with German tanks by learning about the variety of medium tanks. The available vehicles have been divided into both fast and weakly armored ones , like e.g. the PzKpfw III/IV or the VK 3001 (H), and the slow ones, of the armor comparable to the armoring that you can see on tanks of the other nations: VK 3601 (H). Apart from that, you will get the opportunity to play a wide variety of tanks that are somewhere in-between, when it comes to their performance, with the PzKpfw IV and VK 3001 (P) in the first line. Those of the players who are interested in continuing playing with medium tanks, have at their disposal several mobile sniper tanks: PzKpfw V Panther or the experimental E-50.
Starting with tier VII, the Germans gain access to heavy tanks - these are divided into two branches. The first one, makes it possible to drive the best armored tanks in the game, with large firepower at their disposal and low mobility. The example tanks here are the PzKpfw VIB Tiger II or the "E" series vehicles.
The second branch of tanks represents the inventions of doctor Porsche. This can be completely different from the remaining German vehicles: in their case, new driving units, or the situation of the turret (both in the front and at the back of the vehicles), have been experimented with. Each one of these vehicles drives a bit differently, which often requires you to change your habits.
Apart from the above, the Germans also have access to excellent tank destroyers - mobile and of great camouflage, even at low tiers (Hetzer or the StuG III), which later turn into armored sniper vehicles (Ferdinand or the Jagdtiger). It is among them that you will find vehicles with middle-ground statistics: Jagdpanther and Jagdpanther II of high top speed, considerable firepower and medium camouflage factor.
What characterizes the German artillery, is high versatility : it deals a lot of damage over considerable distance, while retaining good accuracy. After the self-propelled gun of tier VI is unlocked: the GW Panther, you gain access to one of the best vehicles in the game! It is very fast, highly mobile, has an excellent firing angle, deals a lot of damage and, which is the most important thing, it is the second most accurate artillery vehicle I the World of Tanks! If you do not have any specific preferences, when it comes to self-propelled guns, the best thing to do is start with this tree.
Name
PzKpfw VI Tiger
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
8,8cm KwK 43 L/71: penetration 203mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 100mm/82mm/82mm, turret: 100mm/82mm/82mm
Durability
1450 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 870KM
Role
Sniper
PzKpfw VI Tiger is one of the most known tanks of the II World War, being a real challenge for Allied forces, consisting mainly of medium tanks. In World of Tanks Tiger unfortunately is not on the top of the food chain, so it will often meet much stronger opponents. The main Pzkpwf VI Tiger commander's task is to find a suitable location on the map, where it will be able to shoot at enemy, without being exposed to the counter-attack at the same time. Because of its quite poor armor it should not fight in close combat, but thanks to super accuracy of German cannons it can damage or even destroy its enemies, before they can spot it. But once it happens, commander should find another position and continue the fight from there. In the last phase of the battle, when there are few machines left on the battlefield, Tiger can try the frontal attack and shoot-out with opponents at shorter distance: thanks to high rate of fire and large HP it can defeat almost each opponent of the same tier. When fighting higher tier enemies, we should use our great accuracy and solid penetration of 8,8cm KwK 43 L/71 gun to attack weak point in enemy armor.
By researching Tiger through the VK 3601 (H), we should have 8,8cm KwK 35 L/56 cannon, Maybach HL 230 P 45 engine and FuG 12 radio. If we do not have such modules, they should become priority for us. After that we should invest in a new turret and best available cannon - "long 88" (8,8cm KwK 43 L/71). Eventually we research all missing modules.
More malicious players will say that the whole PzKpfw VI Tiger is one big weak point. Unfortunately its armor is not thick enough to stop shells from 7 tier guns. Despite that fact, it is worth remembering that shots in the front armor on the high angle or at the yoke sometimes won't be able to penetrate the target. If we're driving the lower tier tank, such as T-34, and we have to fight the Tiger, we should attack its sides or back at right angle. As a last resort we can try to shoot at its lower plate and hope for the fire.
...as a driver of PzKpfw VI Tiger?
Use the terrain obstacles to hide our tank. Trees, bushes, ruins - each of them increases out chances to survive.
...against PzKpfw VI Tiger?
Name
PzKpfw VI Tiger (P)
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
8,8cm KwK 43 L/71: penetration 203mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 200mm/80mm/80mm, turret: 120mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
1450 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 670KM
Role
Sniper, fight in close combat
Although PzKpfw VI Tiger (P) is a close relative of PzKpfw VI Tiger, there are several major differences between these two. First of all, it is far more resistant than his cousin, thanks to 200 mm of steel protecting its front. Second - it has unique silhouette among German tanks, with turret put forward. Unfortunately it has worse engine, so it is less maneuvering, making it more vulnerable for flank attacks. Just as PzKpfw VI Tiger, it is perfect sniper - has the same cannon and sights, but thanks to better armor is much more difficult to be destroyed after detection. Thicker front plate and extended turret has another advantage: it allows Tiger (P) to fight in a close combat, in narrow streets, when situation needs it. This tank, when it is supported by several other machines, guarding its sides, is able to lead an assault on enemy fortified positions, even against higher tier tanks. The biggest drawback it is poor mobility: single PzKpfw VI Tiger (P) is quite easy target.
A path to PzKpfw VI Tiger (P) leads through VK 3001 (P), where we should have already researched 8,8cm KwK 35 L/56 cannon and 2x Porsche Type 100/3 engine. In order to install additional modules we have to research first a new suspension and after that we invest in 8,8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon. Despite the fact, that this gun is not required to research the new tank, I suggest mounting it: it not only increases rate of fire of our gun, but also adds 100 HP and it is armored enough to stand shot of some 8 tier tanks fired at low angle.
Although PzKpfw VI Tiger (P) has given thickness 200 mm on the front, its armor is very mixed. Attacking it from the front we should avoid aiming at the central plate, because it's able to rebound even shells of higher tier guns. Top plate, with machine gun stand and driver's sight, can be shot but only when the tank is at right angle to us - otherwise shell can ricochet. The best point to attack is front plate and slanted top front plate elements, which connect it with side armor. These points can be penetrated even with the 5 tier tanks, such T-34 or PzKpfw IV. If we're attacking the turret, we should fire at commander's cupola, because front also rebounds many hits. When we get the enemy from the flank, this tank suddenly becomes quite weak opponent - almost each shot can penetrate it. By aiming at the rear part of the hull we can hit the engine and set Tiger (P) on fire.
...as a driver of PzKpfw VI Tiger (P)?
...against PzKpfw VI Tiger (P)?
Name
PzKpfw VIB Tiger II
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
10,5cm KwK 46 L/68: penetration 225mm; damage 320
Armor
Hull: 150mm/80mm/80mm, turret: 185mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
1600 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 28km/h, engine: 870KM
Role
Sniper, fight in close combat
PzKpfw VIB Tiger II, so called King Tiger or just KT, is one of the most commonly used 8 tier tanks in the game. This vehicle is natural successor to PzKpfw VI Tiger, but in most cases doesn't have its drawbacks. Same as its predecessor, it has one of the best cannon on its tier, is very accurate and has large amount of HP. Unlike Tiger, King Tiger is very well-armored, both the tower and the hull, and its frontal plate is not placed vertically but at an angle, which further enhances its already impressive armor. This tank is a perfect sniper: thanks to high penetration of 10,5cm KwK 46 L/68 cannon it can easily break through each 8 tier tank, as well as seriously threaten 9 and even 10 tier tanks. Due to upgraded frontal armor it can fight in a close combat and lead the attacks on cities and among ruins. In addition, despite the low maximum speed, King Tiger is surprisingly maneuverable, so can quite easily protect its sides and rear against medium tanks.
This tank has several development paths. You can try to quickly research 10,5cm KwK 46 L/68 cannon, which will give us great firepower but leave us vulnerable for attack on short range. Another possibility is to stay with efficient 8,8cm KwK 43 L/71 and research new suspension and a resistant turret - thanks to that lower tier tanks won't be able to penetrate it regularly, but we will have less firepower. This choice between firepower and armor will define our role on the battlefield for next several dozen fights, until we research all modules.
Front of PzKpfw VIB Tiger II is highly resistant to damage. When the opponent places it at the angle, the top plate becomes almost indestructible, while bottom plate will often rebound shots. In this case it will be easier to break through front of enemy turret - we can also aim at the commander's cupola. When King Tiger is placed at the right angle to us, we should always aim at the bottom plate: most shot from the guns with penetration of 175 mm minimum should break through from the distance between 50 and 100 m. Additionally, each shell which penetrates the frontal armor has a great chance to set the tank on fire. By attacking the King Tiger from the flank or rear, you won't have problems with penetrating it. If we aim a bit below the turret we can damage ammo rack, and if we aim at the rear - engine. Turret sides are very easy to be penetrated and hits can injure tankers.
...as a driver of PzKpfw VIB Tiger II?
...against PzKpfw VIB TigerII?
Name
VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
10,5cm KwK 45 L/52: penetration 200mm; damage 320
Armor
Hull: 120mm/80mm/80mm, turret: 185mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
1570 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 38km/h, engine: 840KM
Role
Sniper, support tank
VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A heavy tank is unique among German vehicles. Unlike giants such PzKpfw VIB Tiger II or PzKpfw VI Tiger (P), it is quite fast but less armored machine. Due to the greater mobility it is often used not on the front line but as a support machine by strengthening weak defense points, leading counter attacks and flanking enemy. So the style of play resembles very big medium tank. Of course, despite the fact that it is less armored and armed as its counterpart - King Tiger - this tank under favorable conditions is able to lead an attack and fight frontally. But we can't overestimate the value of its armor: 30 mm difference in top frontal plate results in penetration from strongest 8 tier cannons, even if it is placed at low angle. In addition to characteristic features of German tanks, this vehicle has inherited some elements of PzKpfw VI Tiger (P): turret moved to the front makes a fight in built-up areas easier and high silhouette makes it easier to be hit.
Since 8,8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon available for VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A is very close in performance to 10,5cm KwK 45 L/52, researching of new weapon can be postponed. In the first place it is best to research the best engine - Porsche Deutz Type 180/2 and after that suspension, turret and a new cannon.
Like with the PzKpfw VIB Tiger II, when attacking VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A frontally it is best to aim at the bottom plate. If it is not possible (the opponent is hidden behind the hill for example), we can use higher caliber cannon to penetrate top part of its armor. When the enemy is placed at the angle, penetration of its frontal armor is as hard as in case of King Tiger. Same as with other German tanks, sides and rear of VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A are vulnerable to shooting - hit at the rear part of the hull can damage the engine and set the opponent on fire and hit below the turret can damage ammo rack. Turret is same as for King Tiger - it has moderately resistant front and very weak sides.
...as a driver of VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A?
...against VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A?
Name
E-75
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
12,8cm KwK 44 L/55: penetration 246mm; damage 490
Armor
Hull: 160mm/120mm/120mm, turret: 252mm/160mm/160mm
Durability
1920 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 1200KM
Role
Close combat fight, sniper
E-75 is the embodiment of all that is characteristic for German tanks: it is slow, heavily armored, has impressive firepower and huge amount of HP. This vehicle is a nightmare for all lower tier machines, because virtually none of the available guns can damage it. Fighting with opponents on the same or higher tier, it is able to hold its position and often force the enemy to stop the attack or retreat from actual positions. As a successor of PzKpfw VIB Tiger II, E75 has inherited its game style: experienced driver of King Tiger will cope well with driving a new machine, because it uses same tactics and maneuvers.
In its basic configuration, E-75 has excellent hull armor and solid 10,5cm KwK 46 L/68 cannon. The biggest drawback of new tank, is poor engine: Maybach HL 234 is not enough to move the 87 tons heavy machine, thus there are several developments paths for this tank. For players who do not mind low speed of E-75 with the basic engine, but they lack firepower, I suggest focusing on researching the new cannon, so in order: suspension, new turret and the gun. But if we're confident having 10,5cm KwK 46 L/68 cannon but lack the mobility, at first we should research Maybach HL 295 Ausf. A engine and then follow previously described path. Developing the engine is also a good idea, if we're going to buy medium tank E-50, because both machines use the same power unit.
E-75 is not only one of the best armored tanks in the game, but also his front has no explicit weak points. Top front plate is the most resistant element of the tank - only cannons with the best penetration (270 mm and higher) shooting at right angle are able to break through from time to time. After setting the tank at an angle, this plate becomes almost indestructible. The front armor of the turret is also one of the best available in the game - it can rebound shells of almost all calibers. The only weak point on the front of the E-75 is its bottom plate and under favorable conditions it can be broke through even by cannons of 200 mm penetration. In most cases our cannon has to break through at least 225 mm of steel to penetrate this plate from the distance between 50 and 100 meters. In the case of E-75 you have to watch out for its tries of facehug, because in close combat effective thickness of its armor increases. In the case when we come to the contact, the only way to damage this giant is to shoot at commander's cupola.
Once we flank the E-75, we encounter armor of 120 mm, which can be penetrated with most cannons available on 7 tier vehicles. Side armor of the turret is higher and partially rounded, thus shots with higher calibers can sometimes ricochet. Like other German heavy tanks, E-75 has ammo rack located under the turret and breaking through its bottom front plate and attacks on the hull rear might set it on fire.
...as a driver of E-75?
...against E-75?
Name
VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
12,8cm KwK 44 L/55: penetration 246mm; damage 490
Armor
Hull: 170mm/100mm/100mm, turret: 252mm/160mm/160mm
Durability
1950 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 840KM
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat
On paper VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B 9affectionally known as Minimaus) may look like a copy of E-75: it is slow, has thick armor, and has the same cannon and even more HP. However, in contrast to other German tanks, its turret is located in an unusual place: at the end of its hull. At first it might seem as a huge drawback, but with the right leaning out from behind buildings and ruins, this can be a huge advantage of this vehicle. In addition, thicker front armor guarantees that most of shots hitting our front will ricochet. This tank, despite its unique design and a way of driving, should prepare us well to drive its successor - Maus.
Since VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B uses the same engine as VK 4502 (P) Ausf. A, we do not have much room to maneuver here. If we didn't drive King Tiger before, the best available cannon for us will be 10,5cm KwK 45 L/52, which is insufficient. In this case we should consider researching stronger 10,5cm KwK 46 L/68, which will make collecting credits for other modules easier. However, if we want to get the best cannon, 12,8cm KwK 44 L/55, as soon as possible, then we follow the path: suspension, turret, new gun.
Armor of VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B is almost identical as the one which E-75 has. Front of the turret is hard to damage and the only weak point of the turret is commander's cupola. Sides can rebound lower caliber shells. Front plate, both top and bottom, rebounds most of shots, even largest caliber, if set at the angle. However, in contrast to E-75, it is not indestructible: front of the Minimaus has two weak points, making possible to defeat it at short distance. These are machine gun pit and driver's sight - both can be broken through with cannons of 200 mm penetration. Bottom plate is similar in resistance to the one that E-75 has: shooting at it at right angle we should have no problems with penetrating VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B. Sides of this tank are very vulnerable to shots, as well as its rear. Ammo rack is located under the turret and engine is located in the middle part of the vehicle.
...as a driver of VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B?
...against VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B?
Name
E-100
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
15cm KwK 44 L/38: penetration 235mm; damage 750
Armor
Hull: 200mm/130mm/150mm, turret: 250mm/150mm/150mm
Durability
2500 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 1200KM
Role
Medium range combat, fight in close combat
E-100 is the first of two 10 tier heavy tanks available for Germans. This vehicle has even stronger armor than its predecessor and even more HP. Additionally E-100 has an access to the largest cannon, heavy tanks can use: 15cm KwK 44 L/38. Role of this tank on the battlefield varies dependently on mounted cannon: with the basic equipment it can easily shoot on the medium distance and after installing second, less accurate gun, it is forced to fight at short range. Despite high numbers on paper, E-100 has many drawbacks. It is slow, has many weak points, which can be penetrated with 8 tier guns and moth cannons available for it has low penetration. Due to these fact this tank is very difficult to drive and only best players will be able to use its advantages. Beginners should avoid this vehicle, because it will be only a source of frustration and maintaining it is like bottomless pit for our credits.
This tank has only one module to research: 15cm KwK 44 L/38 cannon.
Frontal armor of E-100 is very irregular - for a tank of this size it has many weak points. Most of the space is taken by front top plate and this is the only fragment with enough thickness: in the long run it is indestructible. Unfortunately, just below it we have bottom plate, which can be damaged by all tanks we encounter. Shooting at it at right angle, at 50 meters distance, we can count on the break through with all cannons of 200 mm penetration (or higher). Only at very short distance, the shooting angle is so high that hitting the bottom plate will result in ricocheting. Protection of this point is the main task of E-100 driver, because it is not only easiest way to damage our tank, but also every effective shot can set us on fire. When we manage to get closer to the enemy, we will notice further drawbacks of the giant: turret is not so resistant, as we thought. Cannons of 270 mm penetration can boldly shoot at front plate. Players with weaker cannons can aim at the lower part of the turret, right next to the hull - even cannons of 200 mm penetration can break through this point. As a driver of E-100 we have to know how to defend against such attacks. The best method is setting the turret diagonally while reloading, which increases effective frontal armor and hinder the penetration.
Side armor of E-100 is not as thick as frontal one. The turret can be penetrated at the right angle with all 8 tier cannon. The same situation is with hull, but we have to aim more or less at its middle. Too low shot won't damage it at all and too high can ricochet on the double armor E-100 has. Setting the side at the angle makes it much harder to break through and increases chances of ricocheting.
...as a driver of E-100?
...against E-100?
Name
Maus
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
12,8cm KwK 44 L/55: penetration 246mm; damage 490
Armor
Hull: 200mm/185mm/160mm, turret: 240mm/210mm/210mm
Durability
3000 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 1750KM
Role
Medium range combat, fight in close combat
Maus is the second German 10 tier heavy tank. It is even slower and better armored than E-100, but it lacks the cannon choice. This vehicle works as a mobile bunker and its main task is to carry out the attacks along with support guaranteed by other vehicles. So far its armor was almost not penetrable by enemy cannons, unless they shoot at the right angle. Unfortunately, with the proliferation of the artillery and new cannons of 270 mm penetration, hard times for this vehicle came. Maus can still influence the tide of battle, especially in city fights, among ruins and narrow streets.
Maus from the very beginning has elite status.
Front armor of Maus is very resistant to damage, but same as with E-100, it has several weak points. The most important is bottom plate between tracks - most of 9 and 10 tier cannons is able to penetrate it, even if it is set at the slight angle. Like in other German tanks, critical hit at this point sets the vehicle on fire. Top front plate can be penetrated by shooting at the right angle with cannons of minimum 250 mm penetration, so even during the close combat Maus's driver has to remember about setting the machine at the angle. The last vulnerable point of the tank is front of its turret: well-aimed shot with cannon of 250 mm penetration is able to break through, so after firing it is worth to set the turret at alight angle to increase effective thickness of the armor.
When attacking the tank from the side we should aim at the top half of the hull, because its lower part is protected by double armor. It is better not to risk shooting the turret side, because it has natural decline and effective armor thickness is more than given 210 mm.
...as a driver of Maus?
...against Maus?
Name
VK 30.01 (H)
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725: penetration 157mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 50mm/50mm/50mm, turret: 80mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
660 Hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 400HP
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat
The VK 30.01 (H) is the second heavy tank available for the Germans and, at the same time, the continuation of the technical thought initiated at the construction of the Durchbruchswagen 2 (D.W.2). This vehicle is quite slow and quite poorly armored, but it has an excellent armament, which allows it to defeat enemies of a higher tier. The 7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725 cannon is highly accurate and it has an excellent penetration value, thanks to which you will have no problems damaging tanks like the KV-1, the KV-1S or even the Tiger or the IS. The skills that you have obtained, while driving the VK 30.01 (H), will definitely come in handy in future, when you will be driving the famous Tiger.
The development of the VK 30.01 (H) is quite complicated and requires quite a lot of experience points. Your first step should be to mount the 7.5cm KwK 40 L/43 cannon as quickly as possible, which will allow you to take on the majority of tier V enemies. Now you need to unlock the Maybach HL 190 engine - an additional 75 HP should do for some time. The next step should be improving the suspension and mounting a new turret. On a vehicle thus prepared, you can now mount new armament: the 10.5cm KwK 42 L/28 cannon, or the 7.5cm KwK 40 L/48 cannon. Regardless of the option that you choose, you should unlock, and mount the 7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725 - the cannon is one of the best one available for tier V. Now you can finish your development of the engines, the radio that is missing, and the remaining elements of the equipment, as well as new vehicles.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of the VK 30.01 (H) is very poorly armored. The 50mm of steel is capable of stopping only some of the shells fired from lower tier vehicles. Any tier V vehicle, or higher, will be able to overcome this obstacle.
The turret is a bit more resilient - the cannon armor has the thickness of 80mm which, in combination with its slight curvature, will protect the tank from smaller caliber cannons. The sides and the back of the turret are protected, merely, by 60mm of steel that can be overcome by literally any cannon.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly below it: the engine, typically at the back of the hull. Shots fired at the center of the bottom front armor plate can damage the gearbox and set the vehicle on fire.
...As the driver of the VK 30.01 (H)?
...against the VK 30.01 (H)?
Name
VK 36.01 (H)
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725: penetration 157mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 100mm/60mm/60mm, turret: 100mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
950 Hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 50,5km/h, engine: 500HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, Sniper
Just like its predecessor, the VK 36.01 (H) is a quite slow vehicle with considerable number of health points, and armed with the effective 7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725 cannon. Fortunately enough, unlike the VK 30.01 (H), it has an excellent armor capable of withstanding the fire of vehicles of the same, or a higher tier. Only the Soviet 122mm cannons are a serious threat for this vehicle. This tank is one of the best tier VI vehicles in the game; a driver that manages to harness this vehicle, will have no problems driving German vehicles of the higher tiers.
Your first step should be to develop and mount the 7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725 cannon- you are going to use it for the whole time that you spend playing with the VK 36.01 (H). Then, you can unlock a new turret (this will provide you with, as many as 190 additional health points!) or new engines. Now, the only thing that you need to do is develop new suspension and the rest of the missing modules. If you are not going to use the 7.5cm KwK 42 L/70 cannon, you can skip the step of developing it - it will unlock automatically, after you have developed the Pz. Kpfw. VI Tiger.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
As for tier VI, this tank is exceptionally well armored. The whole of the glacis plate (and the lower plate) are 100mm thick, which is why, if you fire frontally at the VK 36.01 (H), you should make sure that you have a sufficiently effective cannon and that the enemy has not angled the armor. Otherwise, it is better to flank the slow German tank and lay fire at its vulnerable sides.
The turret of the VK 36.01 (H) is even more difficult to pierce than the hull. Depending on the cannon that it uses, the thickness of its armor varies. In the case of the 7.5/5.5cm Waffe 0725, it is 100mm thick, which allows it to repel the shells of 150mm piercing value. The cal. 88mm cannon has the armor of the thickness of 135mm. While attacking the tank from the front, it is best to aim at the cupola - it is quite poorly armored, which is why most of shells fired at it will damage the vehicle. The sides and the rear of the turret are easy to damage, because they are protected by mere 80mm of steel.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly below it: the engine, typically at the back of the hull. Shots fired at the center of the bottom front armor plate can damage the gearbox and set the vehicle on fire.
...As the driver of the VK 36.01 (H)?
...against the VK 36.01 (H)?
Name
Pz.Kpfw. IV
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
7.5cm KwK 40 L/48: penetration 110mm; damage 110
Armor
Hull: 80mm/30mm/20mm, turret: 50mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
460 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 48km/h, engine: 440HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
Pz.Kpfw. IV is an universal German medium tank, a counterpart of the Soviet T-34. The characteristic features of the vehicles are the poor armor, medium mobility and a wide selection of armaments. Depending on its equipment, it can it can be used to hunt for the enemy medium tanks (with the cal. 10.5 cm cannon) or to harass the enemy heavy tanks (in this case, use the 7.5 cm cannon). The Pz.Kpfw. IV may not be the best Tier V machine, but it is effective enough to decide about the outcome of a battle.
A brand new Pz.Kpfw.IV is a very weak tank of poor driving unit and armament. The first step should be to install a new cannon: 7.5cm KwK 40/L43, which will allow you to attack Tier V enemies. If you have developed the Pz.Kpfw.III medium tank, you will be able to mount the Maybach HL 120 TRM driving unit straight away. Otherwise, make this your next goal. Now, you can return to improving on the firepower. Ultimately, you will be using the 7.5cm KwK 40 L/48 cannon, or (after you have worked on suspension and the turret) the 10.5cm KwK 42 L/28.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, Camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then Brothers in arms for the whole crew.
Apart from the armor on the front hull (of the thickness of 80mm), the Pz.Kpfw.IV has no considerable protection against the enemy fire. Both the turret and the back of the hull can be penetrated with any cannon available in the game.
The ammo stash is located at the back of the hull . Firing into the center of the lower-front armor plate can damage the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as a Pz.Kpfw.IV driver?
...against the Pz.Kpfw.IV?
Name
Pz.Kpfw. III/IV
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
7.5cm KwK 40 L/48: penetration 110mm; damage 110
Armor
Hull: 60mm/60mm/40mm, turret: 50mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
440 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 585HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
The Pz.Kpfw. III/IV is a tank that combines the elements of the Pz.Kpfw.III and the Pz.Kpfw.IV. As such, it has elements common to both of the vehicles: good mobility and acceleration, and also a decent (as for a medium tier V tank) armor. Unfortunately, the small turret is its greatest disadvantage. It prevents you from mounting the cal. 10.5cm howitzer. This vehicle can well be called the poor brother of the Soviet T-34. If properly used, the Pz.Kpfw. III/IV is capable of influencing the outcome of battles but, you need to remember that you cannot win every fight on your own.
Start developing your Pz.Kpfw.III with installing the engine Maybach HL 120 TRM engine, after which you should develop another driving unit: Maybach 157 P. Now you can improve on the turret and mount the 7.5cm KwK 40 L/48 cannon. The final step is to unlock new suspension and the radio that is missing here.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The upper front plate of the Pz.Kpfw.III/IV, thanks to its considerable thickness, and the angle of inclination, can regularly fend off against projectiles fired by the vehicles of a lower tier and, after the tank is positioned at a slight angle, it is also resistant to the attacks of some of the vehicles of the V tier. The sides of the vehicles are also protected with 60 mm thick steel plates. Still, the rear is very vulnerable to attacks.
The turret in the Pz.Kpfw.III/IV is the same as in the Pz.kpfw.IV - does not provide any protection against the enemy fire.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret, and directly below: the engine, typically at the back of the hull. Fires shot into the middle of the bottom-front armor plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the Pz.Kpfw.III/IV driver?
...against Pz.Kpfw.III/IV?
Name
VK 30.01 (D)
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
7.5cm KwK 42 L/70: penetration 150mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 60mm/40mm/50mm, turret: 80mm/45mm/45mm
Durability
770 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, close combat
VK 30.01 (D) is a direct descendant of the Pz.Kpfw. III/IV. Just like its predecessor, it is a very swift vehicle of high mobility, equipped with good armor. Just like its predecessor, its armament is quite limited: again, you will have to use the cal. 75mm cannon. Among all German tier V medium tanks, this vehicle has the greatest horsepower to weight ratio, which is why it is best suited for the quick sojourns behind the enemy lines, or to circumvent the enemy's heavier vehicles. Its greatest shortcoming is that the damage it deals per minute is relatively low, which is why the target will often receive reinforcements before you manage to destroy him.
The development of the VK 30.01 (D) requires a lot of patience. You need to decide whether you prefer to increase your mobility, or to receive greater firepower. I would recommend that you decide on the latter and develop a new suspension, new turret with the 7.5cm KwK 42 L/70 cannon to follow - this will allow you to attack the enemy from the front side and operate in the second line. Now you can unlock new driving units, which will allow you to move around the map and operate as a flanking support tank.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, coated optics
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull's armament in the VK 30.01 (D) is similar to the one in the Pz.Kpfw.III/IV. The glacis plate protects you from tier IV vehicles' fire. The side armor was weakened, which is why you should never rely on it. The rear is a bit thicker, but still insufficient. You need to watch out for the lower-front (flat) part of the glacis plate - with the thickness of 100 mm, it is capable of making shells ricochet off it.
The turret in the VK 30.01 (D) is quite resistant to front-side fire. Thanks to the fact that it is narrow, many of the shells will ricochet off the side plates, which are inclined at considerable angle. The cannon's armor, although being thin, with the thickness of 80 mm, can also protect the vehicle from losing health points. The weakest point f the turret is its flat front plate, which can be pierced by, virtually, all tier IV vehicles.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly below it: the engine, typically at the back of the hull. Shots fired at the center of the bottom front armor plate can damage the gearbox and set the vehicle on fire.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the VK 30.01 (D)?
...against VK 30.01 (D)?
Name
VK 30.01 (P)
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
8.8cm KwK 36 L/56: penetration 132mm; damage 220
Armor
Hull: 75mm/60mm/40mm, turret: 100mm/82mm/82mm
Durability
710 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 60km/h, engine: 670HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, sniper
Another German medium tank prototype , the VK 30.01 (P), is a not too fortunate a construction. Its features are the small number of health points, poor acceleration and maneuverability, bulky construction, medium armor and a non-typical situation of the turret - which is situated at the front of the hull. To accompany all these shortcomings, this tank does not have too many strong points - the high top speed is useless in most cases and the armament does not stand out from the other tier VI vehicles. Unfortunately, if you are bent on unlocking the Tiger (P) or the Maus, you will have to play with this failed prototype .
The development of the VK 30.01 (P) is considered to be one of the longest, and the most difficult processes among tier VI vehicles. First of all, you are going to miss the mobility and firepower; unfortunately, both of these modules are quite expensive. I recommend that you first unlock the 8.8cm KwK 36 L/56 cannon, which will allow an interrupted exchange of fire with the other tier VI tanks. Now you can unlock the 2 x Porsche 2x Porsche Type 100/1 engine, which will ensure you with increased mobility. Another step is a new suspension and the turret. Now, you can mount the 7.5cm KwK 42 L/70 cannon, or stay with the 88mm cannon. After you have selected the armament appropriate for you, you can unlock all the other modules, as well as the Pz.Kpfw.VI Tiger (P) heavy tank.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of the VK 30.01 (P) is quite irregular in its shape : you can find here the elements that are easily damaged (the upper-front armor plate) as well as the ones that will reflect shells with quite irregular pattern (see: the screenshot). The heavily inclined fragments of the armor can often stop shells of the largest caliber, which is why, while shooting at this tank, it is better to position yourself at the right angle. Fortunately, this vehicle has one huge downside: the high and poorly armored sides. Each shot at its flank should deal damage to it.
The turret, when it comes to its shape, resembles the one seen in the Tigers - and unfortunately, it is similarly armored. The protection is resistant to impact and it will often save your tank from damage. The commander's cupola is a weaker point but, it is quite difficult to hit. This tank is best attacked from the side or from the back, where the turret is protected with just 82mm steel plate.
The ammo compartment is at the back of the turret and directly under it; the big engine which is easy to set on fire, is at the back of the hull.
...as the driver of the of the VK 30.01 (P)?
...against the VK 30.01 (P)?
Name
VK 30.01 (M)
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
7.5cm KwK 42 L/70: penetration 150mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 60mm/40mm/40mm, turret: 100mm/45mm/45mm
Durability
840 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 750HP
Role
Medium range combat, sniper, support tank
The VK 30.02 (M) is nothing else than the prototypical model of the Panther. This vehicle is one of the best tier VI medium tanks, available for the German technology tree. The strong armor (the glacis plate is inclined at an angle, which increases its durability to fire considerably), combined with good mobility, a lot of health points and sufficient armament in the form of the cal. 75mm cannon, will let you move around the battlefield freely and eliminate successive targets. The skills that you have learned, while driving the VK 30.02 (M) will translate directly into your effectiveness while driving the Panther.
VK 30.02 (M) is a tank that is relatively easy to develop (although it requires a lot of experience points). The 7.5cm KwK 42 L/70 cannon is transferred from the VK 30.01 (H) - mount it. Then, improve the engines in order to increase the vehicle's mobility. Now, you only need to unlock new suspension and turret, as well as the elements of the vehicle that are missing.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The VK 30.02 (M) is shaped in the way characteristic for the later German medium tanks. The entire glacis plate is inclined in relation to the horizontal plane: the 60 mm steel plate will protect this vehicle from shells fired by the lower tier tanks and, after you incline the vehicle, it can sometimes withstand an impact of 120-130 mm with p penetration. The sides and the back are, as always, vulnerable to fire.
The turret of the VK 30.02 (M) is protected with 100 mm armor but, the majority of the front space is covered with the thick cannon armor, which provides additional protection. Depending on the angle of inclination, it can stop the shells capable of piercing 150 mm of steel. The cupola may seem like it is the weak point, but in most cases, (and especially in the case of battles at the distance below 100 m) it is better to aim at the glacis plate.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly below it; the engine is, typically, located at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the of the VK 30.02 (M)?
...against the VK 30.02 (M)?
Name
VK 30.02 (D)
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
7.5cm KwK 42 L/70: penetration 150mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 80mm/45mm/50mm, turret: 120mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
1250 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 720HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, close combat
Another prototype of the medium tank manufactured by Daimler-Benz. In comparison with the VK 30.01 (D), it has a glacis plate, higher top speed and shorter reload times of the cannon. Unfortunately, its armament and armor are inadequate for the enemies that you encounter, due to which the commander, of this vehicle, will constantly have to search for a convenient position to attack the sides and the back of the enemy vehicles. Fortunately, high mobility of the VK 30.02 (D), allows it to move around the battlefield freely and circumvent the slower heavy tanks. Thanks to the considerable weight, it is quite effective at ramming into the lighter enemies of the lower tiers.
Right at the outset, you should fit the tank with the 7.5cm KwK 42 L/70 cannon, and the Maybach HL 230 TRM P30 engine, developed for the VK 30.01 (D). Since your driving unit and armament is sufficient, you can now unlock a newer suspension and turret (this will increase the amount of your health points). Now, depending on your preferences, you can either mount the cal. 88mm cannon, or remain with the old one. You should also develop a new engine, which will decrease the risk of setting the vehicle on fire after it is hit.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring pattern for the VK 30.02 (D) is analogous to the one that you see on the VK 30.01 (D). the upper part of the glacis plate is now 80mm thick which, after you angle the vehicle, is capable of protecting you from the shells capable of penetrating 150 mm steel. The sides and the rear are still, as if they were cut out of paper - each impact deals damage here.
The turret of the VK 30.02 (D) is much more resilient this time. Its front plate is 120mm thick but, it is quite small, due to which, most shells will hit either the thick cannon shield, or a side plate which is inclined at a considerable angle.: this will result in a ricochet and you will not deal damage to the enemy. While attacking the turret, you need to take a good aim, or target the sides or the back.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the of the VK 30.02 (D)?
...against VK 30.02 (D)?
Name
Pz.Kpfw. V Panther
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
7.5cm KwK 45 L/100: penetration 198mm; damage 135
Armor
Hull: 85mm/40mm/40mm, turret: 120mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
1300 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat, support tank
One of the legendary tanks of World War II and, unfortunately, a major disappointment. Just like the VK 30.02 (M) is a perfect frontline tank, the Panther is a vehicle that will have to avoid direct encounters with the enemy. The high accuracy and penetration value of the 7.5cm KwK 45 L/100 cannon, allows this vehicle to assume the role of the squad sniper. Unfortunately, low damage that the cal. 75mm cannon deals, means that most of the enemies that you attack will manage to retreat and hide behind a natural obstacle. Due to the poor armor and high susceptibility of modules to damage, this tank should avoid frontal fire exchange with the enemy. On the other hand, thanks to the big pool of health points, the Panther can lead an onslaught and take on several shells, which would otherwise destroy the other tier VII tanks.
The development of the Panther is straightforward. You start by unlocking and mounting a new 7.5cm KwK 45 L/100 cannon. Now it is down the slope: new suspension, the turret and all the modules that are mission (if you haven't unlocked them yet with the other tanks).
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The Panther's glacis plate is identical with the on in the VK 30.02 (M). It is now 85mm thick, thanks to which, after you angle the vehicle, you will be able to repel shells of penetration value up to 150mm. The sides and the rear are, as always, vulnerable to fire.
The Panther's turret is quite resistant to impacts. Its front plate is 120m thick but quite small, and the majority of shells will hit either the thick cannon armor or the side armor, which is inclined at a considerable angle: as a result, the shell will ricochet and you will not be able to deal any damage to the enemy. While attacking the turret you need either to take a good aim, or target its sides or the rear.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the Pz.Kpfw. V Panther?
...against the Pz.Kpfw. V Panther?
Name
Panther II
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
8.8cm KwK 43 L/71: penetration 203mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 100mm/60mm/40mm, turret: 120mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
1500 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, sniper
The Panther II is a direct descendant of the Pz.Kpfw. V Panther. This tank has an even thicker armor, a whole lot of health points, which puts it at a par with heavy tanks, and also a great 8.8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon. Unfortunately, this vehicle still has the majority of its predecessor's flaws, like the modules that are susceptible to damage or the low mobility. The new cannon provides you with way more options in the battlefield - thanks to the nearly doubled damage, you can easily damage, or even destroy heavier tanks, and the penetration value of the cannon will allow you to pierce nearly any armor in the game. The Panther II is a perfect prelude for playing with the tier IX medium tank: E-50.
The development of the Panther II is to be started with mounting the 7.5cm KwK 45 L/100 cannon. The next step is developing a better suspension, which will allow you to use the Maybach HL 230 TRM P30 engine, which you have unlocked earlier (with the Pz.Kpfw.V Panther or the VK 30.02(M)). Now, you can improve on the turret and, finally, develop the ultimate 8.8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved guiding system
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The shape of the glacis plate in the Panther II is the same as in the case of the Pz.Kpfw.V Panther. The 100mm thick steel plate, after being angled, is capable of repelling shells of, around, 175mm penetration value. The sides and the rear are, as always, vulnerable to fire.
The Panther II's turret is quite is quite resistant to direct hits. Its front plate is 120mm thick but, it is quite small, which results in most of the shells hitting the thick cannon armor, or the side armor inclined at a considerable angle: as a result, the shell will ricochet and you will deal no damage to the enemy. While attacking the turret, you need either to take a good aim, or target its sides or the back.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the Panther II?
...against the Panther II?
Name
Indien-Panzer
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
9cm KwK 54: penetration 212mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 90mm/90mm/45mm, turret: 90mm/90mm/45mm
Durability
1300 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 630HP
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat, support tank
The Indien-Panzer is quite unique vehicle. This very poorly armored tank, which is susceptible to damaging of modules, has very high mobility; additionally, it is armed with one of the best cannons available for tier VIII medium tanks. Thanks to the perfect angle of the cannon's operation, it can effectively use the "hull down" tactic and conduct accurate fire against the enemy, while remaining invulnerable to fire itself. The high penetration value of the 9cm KwK 54 cannon, in combination with the high damage and very high rate of fire, will allow you to eliminate successive enemies and, even win a direct exchange of fire in one-on-one dues with the other tier VIII medium tanks.
Before you start playing with the Indien-Panzer, I recommend that you first gather, at least, 14000 spare experience points and unlock the 8.8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon, on another tank (the Panther I or the Tiger) - otherwise you are up for an ordeal.
You start the development with improving on the suspension (this is where you allocate the spare experience) and mounting the 8.8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon. Unfortunately, this tank is very sluggish, which is why your next step will be to upgrade the engine to the MTU MB 837 A - this will improve the vehicle's mobility. The final step is to unlock the 9cm KwK 54 cannon and the radio that is missing here.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved guiding system
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of the Indien-Panzer has a very unique shape. Although its front is rounded and it is protected by 90mm armor, cannons of the penetration value of 175mm are capable of piercing it in practically, any spot. The weaker cannons should be aiming at the upper half of the glacis plate (60mm armor) or at the rounding of the glacis plate (90mm but at the right angle relative to you)
The turret's armor is also complicated. The machine gun nest on the right of the turret only has an armor that is 90mm thick. That is why, if you manage to hit it, it is easy to pierce it. The case is similar with the cupola - it is only protected with 90mm thick steel plate. The thickness of the cannon's armor is 130mm, which is why, cannons of the penetration value of 175mm, or higher, are capable of piercing it but, you should expect random ricochets.
The ammo compartment is located at the front of the hull (!), and the engine at the back. Several quick shots into the tank's front is capable of blowing the Indien-Panzer up.
...as the driver of the Indien-Panzer?
...against the Indien-Panzer?
Name
E-50
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
10.5cm KwK 45 L/52 Ausf.B: penetration 220mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 150mm/80mm/80mm, turret: 185mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
1750 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 60km/h, engine: 900HP
Role
Medium range combat, close combat, sniper
The E-50 is the heaviest medium tank in the game and, at the same time, one of the most effective vehicles available for the Germans. This vehicle has an excellent armoring which, in combination with high number of health points, allow it to withstand even concentrated enemy fire. The reliable armament in the form of the 10.5cm KwK 45 L/52 cannon, allows it to damage the enemy, and the damage of 390 points is comparable to the one dealt by heavy tanks. The E-50, in spite of quite low engine power (in comparison to its weight) can reach the top speed. It is one of the few machines that can easily ram into nearly any enemy in the game. Ramming a medium tank, at full speed, can often claim even half of the enemy's health points.
The E-50 is one of the most demanding and the most difficult tanks, to develop, in the game. Not only does it require a lot of experience points, but also patience - for the most part of the game, you will be driving an irritatingly slow, poorly armed and damage-prone tank Fortunately, when fully equipped, the E-50 more than makes up for all of these shortcomings.
There are two development paths for this tank . The first one is longer, but it allows you to develop fully the role of the sniper and damage heavily-armored vehicles: it consists in rapid development of the 8.8cm KwK 46 L/100 cannon. The other path is shorter by 43500 experience points but, for the next 105000 experience points, you will be driving a vehicle that is comparable to, if not worse than the Panther II.
Regardless of which option you select, your first (or second, if you have chosen the 8.8cm KwK 46 L/100 variant) step, will be to develop the Maybach HL 234 TRM P30 engine, which will ensure you with enough power to move this colossus. Now you need to focus on the turret that will ensure you with additional protection and additional health points. The final step for you to take is mounting a new 10.5cm KwK 45 L/52 Ausf.B cannon.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system, coated optics
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The glacis plate of the E-50 is a 150mm steel plate inclined at a considerable angle. This fragment is practically impossible to damage, apart from some of the tier X cannons. Fortunately enough, the lower fragment is merely 100mm thick, thanks to which, cannons of the penetration value of 200mm, or higher, will be capable of damaging it. The sides and the rear are quite vulnerable to impacts, because they are protected merely by a 80mm thick armor.
The turret of the E-50 is similar in shape, to the one that you can see in the Pz.Kpfw.V Panther and Panther II. Its front plate is 185mm thick, but it is small, due to which the majority of shells impact either the thick cannon armor, or the side armor, which is inclined at a big angle: this will result in a ricochet and you will deal no damage to the enemy. While attacking the turret, you either need to take a good aim (this is usually possible as late as in close combat), or to aim at its sides, of the rear.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull. Shots fired into the center of the lower glacis plate are capable of damaging the gearbox and setting the tank on fire.
...as the driver of the E-50?
...against the E-50?
Name
Leopard prototype A
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
10.5cm L7A1: penetration 268mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 70mm/35mm/25mm, turret: 52mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
1650 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 65km/h, engine: 830HP
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat, support tank, passive scout
Leopard prototype A is another unique medium tank available for the Germans. This vehicle has practically no armor (70mm on tier IX often will not even protect you from high explosive shells) but instead, what is characteristic for it, is the high top speed and mobility - one of the highest in the game. Apart from that, the vehicle has been equipped with a modern 10.5cm L7A1 cannon, which deals large damage and is capable of piercing any armor in the game. Among the flaws of the Leopard prototype A, you should count a quite long aiming time and poor vertical angle of the cannon's movement, thanks to which, this tank is better suited for combat in open plains. The vehicle is very difficult to drive and I recommend it only for the most experienced players.
Start developing the Leopard PT A by unlocking a new 10.5cm L7A1 cannon, and then, the MTU MB 838 CaM 500engine. After that, you need to fit it with the missing modules by a new turret and suspension, then the radio.
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms or camouflage for the entire crew.
The Leopard PT A has no armor which would protect it in any way, from the tanks it encounters. Only the shells aimed at the cannon armor may ricochet sporadically.
The ammo compartment is located in the front part of the hull (!), with the engine at the back. Several quick shots at the Leopard PT A are capable of blowing the tank up.
...as the driver of the Leopard PT A?
...against the Leopard PT A?
Name
E-50 Ausf.M
Type
Medium tank
Tier
X
Armament
10.5cm KwK 45 L/52 Ausf.K: penetration 270mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 150mm/80mm/80mm, turret: 185mm/80mm/80mm
Durability
2050 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 60km/h, engine: 1200HP
Role
Medium range combat, close combat, sniper
The E-50 Ausf.M is a modified version of the E-50 of the IX Tier. Its features are the increased amount of health points and much better mobility, in comparison with the predecessor. Additionally, it has been equipped with a better cannon, of the highest penetration value and accuracy, available for medium tanks. From the E-50 Ausf.M , also one of the greatest flaws, haunting all of the German tanks, has been eliminated - the gearbox is at the back of the vehicle, thanks to which this tank does not set on fire after being hit into the lower front armor.
The E-50 Ausf.M has the elite status from the very beginning. .
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system, coated optics
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armor pattern in the E-50 Ausf.M is identical with the E-50's. The only difference here is the location of the gearbox, which now is at the back of the vehicle. Thanks to this, direct hits into the lower front armor plate DO NOT set the tank on fire.
The glacis plate of the E-50 Ausf.M is a 150mm thick steel plate, inclined at a considerable angle. This fragment is practically impossible to damage, apart from some of the tier X cannons. Fortunately, the lower plate is, barely, 100mm thick, thanks to which cannons of the penetration value of 200mm , or higher, will be capable of damaging it. The sides and the rear of the tank are quite susceptible to damage, because they are protected by 80mm of armor.
The turret in the E-50 Ausf.M is similar, in shape, to the one that you have already seen on the Pz.Kpfw.V Panther and Panther II. Its glacis plate is 185mm thick but, it is quite small, due to which the majority of shells hits either the thick cannon armor or the side armor which is inclined at a considerable angle: as a result, the shell will ricochet and you will deal no damage to the enemy. While attacking the turret, you either need to take a good aim (this is usually possible only as late as in combat at short distance) or aim at its sides or its rear side.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, typically, at the back of the hull.
...as the driver of the E-50 Ausf.M?
...against E-50 Ausf.M?
Name
Leopard 1
Type
Medium tank
Tier
X
Armament
10.5cm Bordkanone L7A3: penetration 268mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 70mm/35mm/25mm, turret: 52mm/60mm/60mm
Durability
1950 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 65km/h, engine: 830HP
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat, support tank, passive scout
Unlike the prototype, the mass-production Leopard has a bit better cannon of swift focus time, perfect accuracy and high rate of fire. Apart from that, the characteristic feature of this tank is the extraordinary range of vision, and good angle of vertical movement for the cannon, which allows it to conduct fire from behind elevations. The flaws? Just like in the predecessor,: the armor that cannot protect you even from the fire of light tanks and high susceptibility to module damage. Apart from that, the tank is perfect as a scout and the squad sniper. Playing with the Leopard 1 requires of the player perfect knowledge of the map and of enemy vehicles - unfortunately, this vehicle is not forbearing.
The Leopard 1 has the elite status from the very beginning. .
Recommended equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope, improved guiding system, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms or camouflage for the entire crew.
The Leopard 1 has no armoring that would, in any way, protect it against the tanks it encounters. The only thing is that shells aimed at the cannon armor may ricochet sporadically.
The ammo compartment is at the front side of the hull (!) with the engine at the back. Several quick direct hits into the front of the Leopard 1 should blow the vehicle up.
...as the driver of the Leopard 1?
...against the Leopard 1?
Name
T 55A
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
100mm Panzerkanone D-102S L/56: penetration 201mm / 330mm; damage 320; rate of fire: 8,12 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 100mm/80mm/45mm; Turret: 200mm/160mm/65mm
Durability
1700 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 580KM
T 55A is a German tier IX medium tank which can be acquired during the January individual missions. The look and name of this tank are more similar to the Russian tanks than the German ones. That is because T 55A is a Russian tank that has been produced in the Soviet Union and then transferred to the Eastern Germany. It is a great example of medium tanks, he has both their advantages and disadvantages. You will be given an 100mm Panzerkanone D-102S L/56 cannon that can give 8 shots per minute, deals 320 damage and is quite accurate for a medium tank. A big weakness of this cannon is its penetration, 201mm might not be enough to pierce through vehicles on IX and X level. You will be forced to use unusual tactics, aim the weakspots, flank the enemy or simply load the premium ammunition that increases the penetration to 330mm. Armor of T 55A should manage quite well, especially on the turret. The hull of the vehicle is rather thin, it has only 100mm thickness but is well angled. The turret is well angled as well and is able to ricochet many bullets. The tank has bad mobility. The top speed is 50 km/h which isn't a bad result. The 580HP engine however doesn't give enough power to accelerate such vehicle in a satisfactory way. The tank will get to his top speed eventually, but it will take him far longer than it should The lack of power is especially troublesome during maneuvers like riding on a hill.
During the battle you must keep in mind that your role is to support other tanks, not assault enemy lines by your own. Use your speed quickly get to the right position. Change your position as often as it is possible, avoid staying on one place. You must attack your enemies from the sides, securing the side roads.
Preferred equipment: improved ventilation, toolbox, vertical stabilizer
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
For a tier IX medium tank T 55A has a decent armor. Most of the steel can be found on its turret, which is well angled as well. If you don't have to, then don't shoot it. Cannons with penetration level over 250mm might try, but even that doesn't guarantee getting through it. The commanders cupola is an obvious weakspot, it is quite large. The hull is far easier to breach. The front armor has 100mm thickness but is well angled. The real armor thickness is from 150mm to 200mm. Both the upper and lower plates have the same thickness and angle, so it is better to aim at the upper plate which is bigger and thus easier to hit. The sides and the back of the vehicle are very thin and penetrating them should be easy.
...as the driver of T 55A?
During the battle remember about the limited mobility of your vehicle. You have nice top speed, but low acceleration.
Try to flank enemy vehicles, give a few shots and retreat from your position.
Try to show only the turret of your vehicle, it is better armored than the hull.
Observe enemy positions on the map. You can't allow them to flank you, you will be a very easy target.
Try to fight with only one vehicle at a time.
...against T 55A?
Avoid aiming at T 55A turret. Aim mostly in the hull of the vehicle, its sides and the back.
A perfect option would be to detrack enemy by shooting at its front or back wheels.
When driving a tank destroyer watch out for being flanked. If you allow yourself to be flanked, don't move around without any plan but rather retreat slowly to some cover so than enemy won't be able to still flank you.
When you're driving a heavy tank or well armored medium tank you can go for a direct confrontation with T 55A. His cannon has low penetration - only 201mm.
Name
Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. H
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
10,5 cm Kw.K. L/28: penetration 64mm; damage 350
Armor
Hull: 80mm/30mm/20mm; Turret: 50mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
440 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 350HP
Pz. Kpfw. IV H version is the best tank in the whole Panzer IV group. This tank has two characteristic attributes. First, the visible at first glance additional armor plates on the sides and on the turret. Sadly, that armor improves aesthetical value at most. Both side, back, and even front armor will be penetrated by all tier V vehicles, and even some tier IV ones. Weak armor is a great weakness of this tank. Second characteristic attribute of Panzer IV H is its great gun. 105mm with 64mm penetration and 350 damage points makes this tank deadly on short distances. On longer distance this cannon proves to be too inaccurate, and the small bullet speed makes it harder to aim at moving targets. This tank is great on city maps like Ruinbers or Himmelsdorf. In those maps you can shoot from short distance and quickly hide behind a building. During battles very frequently a single precise shot will be enough to destroy enemy vehicle, even if he had full health bar. This tank is especially deadly against less armored vehicles, especially light tanks and tank destroyers.
When developing new modules first focus on developing the suspension and then as quickly as possible develop 105mm cannon.
Recommended equipment: toolbox, Gun rammer, improved guiding system
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
This tank doesn't have the best armor. Front plates, both upper and lower are not angled at all, so even 80mm of steel are no obstacle for most guns of tier V and above. The angled plate between those two is even easier to penetrate. It is only 20mm thick, so it won't protect from any bullet. Sides and back of the vehicle are weak as well. Armor thickness at those sides is not greater than 40mm, even when including the additional armor.
Turret is easy to penetrate as well, at least if you know where to aim. You should avoid the hatch. Usually the weakest part of every vehicle in this case has 95mm, which with its circular shape is enough protection. The second spot you shouldn't aim at are surroundings of the cannon. Depending on the angle of the shot the armor can have from 50mm to even 200mm. Rest of the turret is very thin and is no obstacle for bullets.
...as the driver of Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. H?
Use the terrain obstacles to hide your tank. Trees, bushes, ruins - all of them increases your chances for survival. Long reload time requires you to hide behind terrain obstacles.
Try to attack from the smallest distance and at the same time hide behind cover immediately after shooting.
During battle try to play on the front line, but keep a safe distance from allied heavy tanks which will be able to give you backup when needed.
Damage dealt depends mostly on the armor thickness and penetration. Aim at less armored part of enemy vehicle, thanks to what you will be able to deal more damage.
...against Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. H?
Always position yourself front toward Panzer IV H, a shot at front plate will probably not deal the full 350 damage.
Utilize the long reload time, don't let enemy hide behind cover and during that time deal as much damage to him as possible.
When driving a light tank or tank destroyer it is best to avoid confrontation with this tank.
While aiming, focus on the hull, armor is quite fragile there and you shouldn't have trouble with penetrating that spot.
The American tanks are often avoided by rookie players - the first vehicles available to you are not too effective in combat but, the more patient players will certainly reach the cherry on the pie: the medium tanks, heavy tanks and tank destroyers of the highest tiers arguably are the best ones in the entire game.
Unlike the German and the Soviet trees, the American one has only one branch of heavy tanks. These vehicles, starting with the T29, require using the hull down tactic on a regular basis, and angling of armor. After you master this difficult art, the American tanks become ones of the hardest in the game, and seizing positions occupied by them will always include sustaining heavy losses. After you unlock the M103, the features of these vehicles will be enriched by mobility, which will allow you to launch aggressive military operations and, occasionally, to break the enemy lines.
Medium tanks are characterized with good top speed and excellent mobility. The vehicles like the M4A3E8 Sherman "Easy Eight" or the M26 Pershing are capable of circling attacks against the heavier enemies, and harass the enemy with continuous attacks from behind hills and elevations. Additionally, thanks to the higher range of vision, the American medium vehicles are excellent as passive scouts: after you mount the binocular telescope, you will be capable of detecting the enemy before they approach your lines.
Just like the Soviets, Americans have two lines of tank destroyers at their disposal. The only major difference between them is that they have (or they don't have) the turret - the vehicles without the turret are, usually, better armored, but they can only fire ahead. What you can find here are vehicles like the M18 Hellcat, which is popular around companies, or one of the toughest tank destroyers in the game: the T95. These vehicles are a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced tankmen, and the entire tree more than rewards the time that you have invested in them.
One of the most interesting branches of the American tanks are the ones equipped with revolver magazines. Vehicles like the T71, T69, T54E1 and the T57 Heavy, are capable of firing several shells within a short period of time, thanks to which they provide an impressive firepower. Unfortunately, every rose has its thorns - the reload times are twice as long, as in the case of regular vehicles.
The American artillery can be characterized in one sentence: large blasts, large damage, low accuracy. Uncle Sam's self-propelled guns are rarely accurate but, if the shell hits where you want it to hit, this will be fatal for the enemy - few tanks are capable of withstanding a direct hit from the T92.
Name
T1 heavy
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
76 mm cannon M1A1: penetration 128mm; damage 115
Armor
Hull: 83mm/44mm/41mm, turret: 102mm/83mm/83mm
Durability
660 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 960KM
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
T1 heavy is first heavy tank available for American commanders. It is characterized by high silhouette, a solid 76 mm M1A1 cannon and, after researching, very good engine. Due to relatively weak armor compared to real heavy tanks as KV-1, this vehicle is not suitable for first line fight. Thanks to high power generated by the engine and maximum speed (35 km/h), it can keep up with medium tanks and flank enemy forces with them.
First module we have to research is new suspension - without it T1 heavy can't mount new modules. The next step should be an engine - Wright G2X M781C9GC1. After that - new turret and cannon. Before researching new tank we should invest in best available engine: Wright G200 M781C9GC1 and SCR 538 radio.
Having cannon with about 100 mm cannon penetration we should break through T1 heavy in any point on the front plate, not to mention random ricochets. In case we do not have such powerful cannon, we can easily attack it from the flank or rear. 40 mm of armor is any obstacle, even for most 3 tier guns.
...as a driver of T1 heavy?
...against T1 heavy?
Name
M6
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
90 mm cannon M3: penetration 160mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 102mm/44mm/41mm, turret: 102mm/83mm/83mm
Durability
870 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 960KM
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, sniper
Heavy tank M6 is an older brother of T1 heavy. The parameters of both vehicles are almost identical: side and rear armor, turret, maximum speed and engine are inherited from the 5 tier machine. Unlike the T1 heavy, M6 has tougher front armor, more HP and what's most important, an access to excellent 90 mm M3 cannon. Even if we take into account that this tank does not encounter enemies which are one tier higher than its predecessor, game style remains unchanged. We still try to flank the enemy and use our mobility and take frontal battles only as a last resort. Thanks to better accuracy of 90 mm M3 cannon we are able to attack targets from longer distance.
Since part of modules is taken from T1 heavy, we can mount them right after buying the tank. These are: Wright G200 M781C9GC1 module, SCR 538 radio and 76 mm M1A1 cannon. The next step is to research 76 mm M1A2 cannon or new suspension. We end tank development with researching the turret, 90 mm M3 cannon (we'll need it for the next tier machine) and heavy tank T29.
Weak points of M6 are identical as with T1 heavy. Vehicles of 6 tier should have no problems with penetrating its front armor. When M6 is set at the angle, we can increases chances to break through by shooting at lower part of front armor. If we still have problems with penetration, we can attack from the flank - both, sides and the rear are same as in T1 heavy and we can penetrate them with any available gun.
...as a driver of M6?
...against M6?
Name
T29
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
105 mm cannon T5E1: penetration 198mm; damage 320
Armor
Hull: 102mm/76mm/51mm, turret: 279mm/127mm/102mm
Durability
1250 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 800KM
Role
Sniper, Medium range combat
T29 is the first heavy tank with features characteristic for American machines: relatively weak hull and indestructible turret, which can rebound even shells shot from Maus or Is-7. This tank, often considered as the best 7 tier vehicle, has well-balanced parameters such as mobility, maximum speed, durability and firepower. This is one of the best machines to keep the front line, especially if it is possible to set it in the hull down position (more information can be found in Advanced tips). In this position the tank can stop an attack of stronger machines with no problem. During the attack T29 is doing a bit worse, but still it is opponent who can't be underestimated: many tankers have lost a clash with the American machine in the close combat, because they made facehug possible. After mounting 105 mm T5E1 cannon this tank is able to damage any vehicle available in the game.
If we have used this guide while playing M6 tank, we should already have 90 mm M3 cannon - just mount it on the tank. Although, if we do not have it yet, it is first and most important module to research. After that we should develop new suspension and 105 mm T5E1 cannon. After mounting the gun we finish collecting experience points for the turret (it adds 100 HP and increases view range), develop both engines and finally a radio. Only when we have fully functional tank, we start the path leading to T32.
A characteristic feature of T29 is medium armored hull and very resistant turret, so when we fight against it, we have to now, where to aim to destroy it. Despite of 102 mm of thickness, top front plate, especially after setting the tank at slight angle, can rebound even shells with 140 mm of penetration. Thus it is best to aim at machine gun stand or bottom front plate. If we have cannon of 160 mm penetration or more, just aim at the front of the hull - most of shots should inflict damage. Unfortunately, a good driver of T29 knows which elements of his machine are weaker, so he will often search for hull down position or try to frontally "hug" our machine. In such cases we have to attack the turret, and this is not a simple task.
Shots at front of the turret have no effect - 279 mm of armor effectively protects it against penetration. However this tank has two weak points, which can be used against it. First of them is commander's cupola and this is our main target, if we attack the turret - most of shot should penetrate it. Another target is triangular piece of armor just above the cannon's yoke - in this case we have to have at least 200 mm penetration cannon, but this is better option that attacking indestructible front armor. Sides and rear of the turret are not very resistant to shots, so we can also aim them. Hits at the "ears" do not any harm to the tank.
In addition to above, T29 has same weak points as rest of the tanks in the game - sides and rear. By aiming below the tower we are able to hit ammo rack and shots at the rear of the hull can set this vehicle on fire.
...as a driver of T29?
...against T29?
Name
T32
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
105 mm cannon T5E1: penetration 198mm; damage 320
Armor
Hull: 127mm/76mm/51mm, turret: 298mm/197mm/152mm
Durability
1550 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 800KM
Role
Close combat, Medium range combat, sniper
Continuing our tour over the American heavy tanks tree, we find the successor of T29 - T32. It is smaller than its predecessor but better armored, with less weak points and more HP. In addition it is slightly lighter than its predecessor, thus reaching maximum speed faster. T32 is one of the best balanced tanks in the game: it combines good armor with high mobility and solid (though not sufficient) cannon. For these reasons it is considered as one of best tanks in the game and is frequent choice in World of Tanks tournaments.
T32 is not much different tan T29 in gamestyle - it can perform same maneuvers and its hull down position is even safer than in its predecessor, due to better armored turret (both front and sides) and smaller hull. Front plate is upgraded, so this tank is very good in close combat, especially in frontal "hugging" to the enemy. Few tanks are able to defeat it in such position.
Because T32 uses modules, which were used with T29, we just have to research new suspension to mount them on the tank. Next step is developing new turret, because the basic one has only 114 mm of armor on the front and every opponent may penetrate it. After mounting new super-turret, we only have to collect experience for M103.
Like T29, T32 has quite weak hull and very resistant turret. Top front plate is a little better armored that at its predecessor and is set at higher angle, thus after setting the tank at slight angle, many shots can ricochet on it. The safest way is to aim at the machine gun stand or bottom front plate. The turret is indestructible from the front - only strongest cannons in the game have any chances to penetrate it and this doesn't happen often. Sides and rear of the turret are also heavily armored, but in this case high caliber cannons can damage it. If T32 "hugs" us, we are practically lost. The only option is to shot at commander's cupola (but it is very hard to aim it) or changing to HE shells and aiming at the cannon. In the second case we will have to wait for support of our team, so our colleagues can destroy the opponent.
Sides and rear of the hull are weakly armored and easy to break through. Ammo rack is located under the turret and the engine is located in the rear part of the tank.
...as a driver of T32?
...against T32?
Name
M103
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
120 mm cannon M58: penetration 269mm; damage 400
Armor
Hull: 203mm/51mm/38mm, turret: 127mm/127mm/51mm
Durability
1850 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 34km/h, engine: 860KM
Role
Close combat, Medium range combat, sniper, support tank
M103, American 9 tier heavy tank, is a giant leap in quality compared to two previous machines. This vehicle is very maneuverable and has good relation between engine and its weight, so it accelerates quite well. Its hull has been significantly strengthened from the front and weakened on sides and rear. Bigger turret has weaker armor than the one from T32, but thanks to rounded shape it can rebound many shells on its front. Inside the turret we have one of the best cannons in the game: 120mm M58 - this gun is capable to penetrate all tanks in the game even on very long distance. This tank is ideal for both keeping the line as well as breaking the flank and raids behind enemy lines. Platoon consisting of 3 M103 is very mobile and dangerous enemy, able to change fate of the battle.
First and most important module to research is new cannon, 120 mm T122 - without it we will have to use 105mm T5E1, which is not adequate for this tier vehicle. Since M103 can have new turret without changing the suspension, we should develop it later and then collect experience for 120mm M58 cannon. Next step is researching the engine, after that we develop suspension and a radio as a last thing.
Unlike T29 and T32, M103 has more resistant hull. Hit at its central part (weld) ricochets often. Top plate is less resistant but set at high angle, thus shells will ricochet there too. The most vulnerable point on M103 hull is bottom front plate - it can be penetrated by almost every cannon, so good driver should know that it must be protected.
Turret of M103 is less armored than in T29 or T32. The given value is 127 mm, but cannon's yoke is so thick that even 270 mm of penetration is not enough to regularly break through it. Unfortunately M103 has several clearly visible weak points. Both, the commander's cupola and armor around the yoke can be penetrated with 7 tier cannons.
Attacking M103 from sides we got one big practice shooting target: both, the hull and the turret can be easily penetrated if this tank gets flanked. The same situation is with rear attacks. Location of ammo rack and engine is same as in other American tanks.
...as a driver of M103?
...against M103?
Name
T110E5
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
120 mm cannon M58: penetration 269mm; damage 400
Armor
Hull: 254mm/76mm/38mm, turret: 203mm/127mm/70mm
Durability
2200 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 37km/h, engine: 875KM
Role
Close combat, Medium range combat, sniper, support tank
T110E5 is the last American heavy tank available in the game. It can be described in two words: M103 plus. Better armor, higher fire rate, higher maximum speed, higher acceleration and smaller silhouette. It is armed with the same cannon as M103 - 120 mm M58 and uses same maneuvers, but thanks to all small amendments, is much more dangerous opponent.
T110E5 from the very beginning has elite status.
T110E5 has a little tougher hull than M103, but still shares all weak points with its predecessor. Weld is almost indestructible, top plate rebounds most shots and bottom plate can be penetrated by most tanks, which we encounter on battlefield. Sides and rear of the hull are weakly armored and tracks absorb most damage.
Turret of T110E5 is much smaller than the one from M103, but also more resistant. The weak point around the yoke was removed and commander's cupola was strengthened. Despite this fact, that cupola is still the best target if we want to destroy T110E5 from the front at short distance.
Sides and rear of T110E5 are as poorly armored as ones in M103 and easy to penetrate. Locations of ammo rack and engine are standard.
...as a driver of T110E5?
...against T110E5?
Name
T57 Heavy
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
120mm cannon T179: penetration 269mm; damage 400 (4 shells in the magazine)
Armoring
Hull: 203mm/50mm/38mm, turret: 127mm/137mm/50mm
Durability
2250 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 810HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
T57 Heavy is the crowning jewel of the line of American tanks equipped with revolver magazines. This tanks is both the heaviest and the best armored vehicles in the branch initialized by the T71. Just like its predecessors, i.e. the T69 and the T54E1 medium tanks , it is a support vehicle that moves directly behind the frontline and appears near the enemy only to fire the entire magazine, after which it retreats and waits for another opportunity to strike.
When it comes to playing style, this tank is very similar to the French AMX 50Bbut it is slightly slower and slightly better armored. Additionally, its reload times are shorter (22 seconds at most) which allows it to return to battle more often.
The T57 Heavy has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can choose the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
Unlike the typical heavy tanks, the T57 Heavy is quite poorly armored. Its hull resembles tanks such as the M103 or the T110E5 and has similar weak points: the lower front armor is the most vulnerable to fire and the weld and the glacis plate are capable of repelling some of the shell. This vehicle, just like the majority of the American vehicles, has thick tracks, which perfectly increase the resistance of the side armor, if the hull is slightly angled. Enemy shells at the right angle, or into the back of the vehicle, are unstoppable and always deal full damage.
The oscillating turret of the T57 Heavy is just as vulnerable as the hull. Due to its unique design, it was impossible to apply thicker armoring and an additional cannon armor plate, which is why, every shell that hits a flat surface, should be capable of penetrating it. Only shells that impact the area around the cannon may ricochet sometimes.
...as the driver of the T57 Heavy?
...against the T57 Heavy?
Name
M4 Sherman
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
Gun 105 mm M4: penetration 53mm; damage 410
Armor
Hull: 50mm/38mm/38mm; Turret: 76mm/50mm/50mm
Durability
400 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 48km/h, engine: 350KM
In reality M4 Sherman was one of the most popular tanks on World War II frontlines. Because of its versality it was the mostly produced and modified tank of the west block. But it wasn't a good tank. Game developers probably wanted to compensate its war experience and in the game it is a very good tank, which gathers his strength from a great, big caliber gun. It's a great medium tank, especially if you play against the same tier tanks. Sadly, the system can throw you even against tier VII. M4 Sherman has pretty decent armor. Although it has only 51mm thickness it is well angled and with right position it can bounce off some bullets. But its not the armor that is the main advantage if this tank. It's his mobility and the 105mm gun, that deals 410 damage. It's a massive amount of damage for tier V, and when shooting with high-explosive ammunition you will deal damage even to well armored enemy vehicles. On the battlefield this tanks role is to support heavy tanks and destroy less armored enemy tanks.
First, most important thing is to develop 105mm cannon. It is not the best cannon dedicated for this vehicle, but it works best with him, Next, you should upgrade its mobility, so develop suspension and engine. At the end develop level VI cannon, which will be useful in the next vehicle, Sherman Jumbo.
Recommended equipment: toolbox, Medium caliber gun rammer, improved guiding system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of M4 Sherman is quite well angled, but not too thick, so if you know where to shoot you shouldn't have trouble with penetrating it. The whole front plate has 51mm thickness and the least angle can be found in the middle of the armor Try to aim at the right of the machine gun socket or at the plate below it. Avoid the bottom of the vehicle. The armor has real thickness of about 100mm there. You can try to shoot at the whole front plate, but there is a possibility that the bullet will bounce off.
The turret is similarly easy to pierce. Shoot mostly at the commander hatch. If you have an accurate cannon you can shot at the gun mantlet as well, although only at the central part of it, where armor thickness is 90 mm. Avoid shooting at other parts of the turret, which are well angled.
...as the driver of M4 Sherman?
When playing as Sherman you should keep as close to the frontline as possible. Your gun is useful only on the smallest distance. But staying at the frontline doesn't mean a frontal assault. You have only 400 hit points, which isn't much. You should stay behind cover, riding out only to shoot.
Avoid direct confrontation with enemy. Don't ride at him, unless it's a light tank or badly armored tank destroyer that you can destroy with only one shit.
Utilize mobility of your tank, especially on city maps, where you will be able to flank your enemy.
Aim at weaker armored parts of enemy vehicle, if possible at his sides or back. Damage depends on the thickness of armor at the point where bullet hit.
...against M4 Sherman?
Avoid shooting at enemy that is well angled, thanks to that virtually every shot should penetrate enemy armor.
If you play with a less armored vehicle avoid Sherman at all cost. Quickly retreat behind better armored allied tanks.
If you play with a tank that has good front armor you can try an frontal assault and direct shooting. In close distance and as long as you don't show your side to the enemy you shouldn't have trouble with finishing him off.
Otherwise try to keep enemy at distance. The longer the distance, the less effective his gun is.
Name
M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
Gun 76 mm Gun M1A2: penetration 128mm; damage 115
Armor
Hull: 101mm/76mm/38mm
Durability
730 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 400KM
M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo is a direct successor to the standard M4 Sherman. Jumbo is modified, upgraded version of its predecessor. First important difference is its improved armor. It has been increased twice, front plate now has at least 102mm, and with great angle as it is positioned the real armor thickness is around 120mm. The turret is armored even better, its virtually impenetrable now. Sadly, the cannon hasn't changed. 105mm cannon is still available, but when Jumbo is thrown against tier VI-VIII it doesn't work well. Gun M1A2 76mm with 128mm penetration is far better. But it doesn't allow to play calmly, and the damage dealt is only 115 points. This gun has nice rate of fire which is 18 bullets per minute. In addition to armor another advantage of Sherman Jumbo is its mobility. Top speed is only 35 km/h, but for such armor it is a nice specification. Gameplay style depends on enemy tier. If most of enemies is on same level you can risk frontal attack, but don't get too far ahead. If you're facing tier VII and VIII tanks you should decide on backing up heavy tanks and keep at the second line during the assault.
When you buy Sherman Jumbo most of modules should be already developed. All that you have left to do is secure yourself better mobility - develop suspension and engine and a better turret.
Preferred equipment: toolbox, coated optics, improved guiding system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of Sherman Jumbo is well armored, mostly thanks to the great angle at which the main plate is placed. Avoid shooting at front armor, especially at the lower plate that is virtually impenetrable. Visible weakspot that is the machine gun socket in fact isn't a weakspot. It has the same thickness as rest of the armor.
Your main target should be the turret, but it requires pretty accurate gun. You should mostly aim under the gun. The armor thickness at that spot is only 70mm and it isn't angled at all. You can try shooting at sides of the turret and the small commander hatch as well, bet they are well angled and penetrating the armor depends on luck. Remember not to shoot at gun mantlet. The armor thickness at that point gets even to 300mm.
...as the driver of M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo?
Remember, you have good armor. Use it. While in direct combat, always position yourself front towards enemy and sidescrap your vehicle a bit.
Utilize the nice accuracy and rate of fire of your gun and fight from distance - support other heavy tanks that fights in close range.
If you're fighting against tanks of same tier as yours you can try to fight in first line. But watch out not to be flanked.
Aim at the sides of back of enemy vehicle, if that is not possible, aim at weakspots at front armor. Since your cannon has low penetration you are forced to search for less armored parts of enemy vehicle.
...against M4A3E2 Sherman Jumbo?
Avoid shooting at the front of Sherman Jumbo. If you have to, it is best to aim at the lower part of the turret or its sides.
If you're not able to penetrate Jumbo armor, retreat behind stronger tanks. Sherman Jumbo is vulnerable to attacks from both sides.
Try to detrack your enemy. It will allow you to flank him and deal some damage.
The French tanks available in the game are divided into low-tier pre-war vehicles, and wartime vehicles of high tiers. The former are similar to the vehicles of the other nations, whereas the latter have their own, unique playing style.
The French heavy tanks are very poorly armored and they are equipped with accurate cannons of very high penetration value. Stating with tier VIII, i.e. the AMX 50100, they have the revolver magazine, which allows them to ire several shells before it is necessary to reload. Mostly, they are support tanks, very weak while in a lone hunting for the enemy, but they are perfect as vehicles of the second line. They require a good knowledge of the map on which you are going to play, because the low elevation arc makes it very difficult to fire an effective shot.
Unlike the remaining nations, the French have light tanks of higher tiers. Just like the heavy tanks, these vehicles are equipped with revolver magazines, which allows them to deal impressive damage, at the cost of long reload times. Of course, light tanks are even more poorly armored and have even less health points then medium tanks. This is why, playing on them is a real challenge - not only you need to make sure that you wound the enemies, but also you need to remember that you are tasked with reconnaissance and, which is even more difficult, keeping the tank in one piece.
The French medium tanks are constructions that form a continuation of solutions implemented in the light tanks. You still have access to revolver magazines, just the caliber of your cannon is higher. The construction of the tanks is slightly higher than in the case of light tanks - it is easier to hit them, but they also have more health points than their predecessors.
Tank destroyers are excellently armored and perfect cannons, which you have already seen on the previous vehicles. The AMX 50 Foch (155) is a peculiarity here and it has the revolver magazine for a cal. 155mm cannon. This tanks is capable of dealing the highest damage, of all vehicles in the game, within a mere 10 seconds.
The artillery available for the French deals, relatively, low damage but, it is highly accurate. Additionally, the Bat Chatillon 155, just like any other high-tier French tank, has the revolver magazine with the capacity of four shells. This means that, if you have received a hit from this self-propelled gun, there is a high probability that the three other will soon follow.
Name
BDR G1B
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
90 mm DCA 30: penetration 135mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 60mm/40mm/60mm, turret: 80mm/70mm/60mm
Durability
650 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 30km/h, engine: 450KM
Role
Support tank
BDR G1B is 5 tier heavy tank, with characteristic, pre-war body. It is poorly armored, slow and with large silhouette - unfortunately it is one of worst tanks in its category, but it is necessary to be researched if we are going to drive better vehicles available for French. The only thing which helps in this case is solid cannon - 90 mm DCA 30, which allows it to fight with same tier tanks.
First we develop new cannon - 75mm long 44 - it is also quite poor, but far better than starting cannon 75mm SA32. After that we research new suspension, Renault T14 engine, new turret and finally the best gun available for us: 90 mm DCA 30. After developing the cannon we research ARL 44 tank.
This tank is badly armored and each 5 tier machine, as well as most of 4 tier vehicles, are able to penetrate it at any point. If we have problems with damaging it, we can shoot at its side - 40 mm of armor can be penetrated even by first cannons available in the game.
...as a driver of BDR G1B?
...against BDR G1B?
Name
ARL 44
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
90 mm DCA 45: penetration 212mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 120mm/50mm/50mm, turret: 110mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
820 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 37km/h, engine: 750KM
Role
Sniper, support tank
After very weak BDR G1B we get very solid machine. Unlike its predecessor, ARL 44 has very good armored hull front and solid turret. Its maximum speed and mobility after research of the last engine, is enough for our purposes, and weapon is the best available on this tier. This tank has cannon capable of damaging each tank in the game, which might be a rival of German 8,8cm KwK 43 L/71 cannon.
As the primary turret is heavier than ARL 44 nouvelle, we research it as first. Then we research 90 mm F3 cannon, which will allow us to fight with 6 tier tanks on equal terms. Next step is to unlock a suspension and then, depending on our game style, cannons: 90 mm DCA 45 or 105 mm 13TR. After researching gun, we research engine and radio.
Unlike BDR G1B, ARL 44 has very strongly armored front. 120 mm of steel at the high angle is very difficult area to penetrate. For this reason we should aim at the bottom front plate (quite a difficult target to hit) or at less armored turret. Both these points can be broke through with cannon of about 120 mm penetration.
Side and rear armors are very thin and easy to penetrate by any gun available in the game. Rear hits can easily set this tank on fire and hits on the turret often damage ammo rack.
...as a driver of ARL 44?
...against ARL 44?
Name
AMX M4(1945)
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
90 mm DCA 45: penetration 212mm; damage 240
Armor
Hull: 90mm/40mm/40mm, turret: 100mm/70mm/40mm
Durability
1200 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 850KM
Role
Sniper, support tank
Successor of ARL 44, despite the very different shape, resembles German PzKpfw VIB Tiger II. It is a tank very similar to its 6 tier cousin in the way of fighting the battle. The main difference between two French vehicles is increased rate of fire and shortened aiming time, which makes AMX M4(1945) much more fun to drive machine.
Basic AMX M4(1945) has access to 105mm cannon 13TR researched on ARL 44 - it's worth to install it at once. After that we research new suspension and turret, which will allow us to mount 90mm cannon DCA 45. Finally we unlock missing modules and AMX 50 100 tank.
AMX M4(1945) is weakest armored 7 tier heavy tank: both its turret and hull can be penetrated by cannons of tier 6, and sides and its back can be penetrated by cannons of tier 5. Hits at the rear side can set it on fire - hits at the turret often damage ammo rack.
...as a driver of AMX M4(1945)?
...against AMX M4(1945)?
Name
AMX 50 100
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
100mm SA 47: penetration 232mm; damage 300 (6 shots in the magazine)
Armoring
Hull: 90mm/35mm/30mm, turret: 90mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
1400 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 51km/h, engine: 850HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
The AMX 50100 is a French heavy tank available right after you develop the AMX M4(1945). Unlike its predecessor, it is much faster equipped with the unique revolver magazine This allows you to prepare six rounds beforehand, and fire them all within shorts intervals of 2 seconds. Thanks to this, the AMX 50100 is capable of dealing as much as 1800 points of damage within 12 seconds, which destroys any opponent in one attack. Unfortunately, due to the ammount of ammo that this tank uses up, the reload times are much longer - it takes 40 seconds to prepare this tank to attack.
The Maybach HL 295 engine and the 90mm DCA 45 should have been developed while playing with the AMX M4(1945) - you can mount it onto the AMX 50100 straight away. Then, develop the 100mm SA 47 cannon, suspension and the radio.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can select the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
As a descendant of the AMX M4(1945), the AMX 50100 also has very poor armoring. Both its turret and its hull can be penetrated by any tank that it may encounter in the battlefield - only the glacis plate is capable of occasional repelling an enemy shell but, in the HEAT of the battle, you should not rely on it. Direct hits into the rear of the vehicle can set it on fire, direct hits into the turret, often damage the ammo compartment.
...as the driver of the AMX 50 100?
...against the AMX 50 100?
Name
AMX 50 120
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
120mm SA 46: penetration 267mm; damage 400 (4 shells in the magazine)
Armoring
Hull: 100mm/80mm/60mm, turret: 100mm/80mm/60mm
Durability
1750 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 65km/h, engine: 1000HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
AMX 50120 is an improved version of the AMX 50100. It has a bit better glacis plate and a much better cannon than its predecessor. It still has access to the revolver magazine: while using the 100mm SA 47 cannon, your salvo consists of 6 shells - the more modern 120mm SA 46 is only capable of firing four shells before you need to reload. The playing style is similar to what you have been doing on the AMX 50100.
The AMX 50120 can, from the very beginning, use the 100mm SA 47 that you have developed earlier. The next step is either to develop the 120mm SA 46 cannon, or the Saurer engine. Unfortunately, the low load capacity of the basic suspension makes it impossible to install modules or a better radio. This is why it is the net element that requires modernization.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can select the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
Just like all the tanks of this series, the AMX, AMX 50120 has very poor armor. Both its hull and the turret, can be penetrated by any tank that it encounters in the battlefield - only the Glacis plate is, occasionally, capable of repelling an enemy shell but, in the HEAT of the battle, you should not rely on it. Direct hits into the back of the vehicle can set it on fire and, hits into the turret, often damage the ammo compartment.
...as the driver of the AMX 50 120?
...against the AMX 50 120?
Name
AMX 50B
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
120mm SA 46: penetration 267mm; damage 400 (4 shells in the magazine)
Armoring
Hull: 170mm/30mm/30mm, turret: 100mm/50mm/30mm
Durability
2100 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 65km/h, engine: 1200HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
The AMX 50B is another one in the line of the French heavy tanks. At first glance, it is no different from the AMX 50120 - the same cannon and equally poor armoring (save the Glacis plate), but there are several crucial details weighing in favor of this tank. Better elevation arc, better driving unit and reliable front allow this tank to implement new tactics in the battlefield.
AMX 50B has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can select the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
The AMX 50Bis poorly armored: both its hull, and its turret, can be penetrated by any tank that it encounters in the battlefield. Only the glacis plate is resistant enough to repel, often, shells fired by vehicles even of tier ten. This is why, the best target is, always, the back of the turret. Hitting the vehicle on the back may set it on fire and direct hits into the turret often damage the ammo compartment.
...as the driver of the AMX 50B?
...against the AMX 50B?
British vehicles can be divided into sluggish and well armored infantry tanks and multitask universal tanks. For some time now, also sluggish tank destroyers, which are highly resistant to fire, are also available.
British tanks of the lower tiers, like the Churchill I or the Black Prince, are excellently armored. but have poor mobility and top speed. These are bunkers on tracks that pepper the enemy with a hail of shells. Starting with tier eight, to replace them, you receive the faster and more weakly armored, universal tanks that prefer combat over a longer distance. Thanks to the high penetration value and accuracy matching the ones from the German vehicles, the British heavy tanks are capable of eliminating the enemy before he comes at the distance that allows a precise shot.
Medium tanks are similar, in terms of their effectiveness, to American vehicles. They are just as mobile the cannon's elevation arc is equally good but, they are fitted with better cannons. Their disadvantage, however, is the bulky construction and medium top speed, which makes them an ideal target for the enemy artillery. In spite of that, the Centurion tanks are probably the best ones of their weight class.
The British destroyers are similar, in terms of their effectiveness, to the infantry tanks: they are sluggish but excellently armored. These vehicles are used, mainly, for breaking through the frontline, or for defense of narrow passages, where they cannot be flanked and are not easy to eliminate from the game.
Name
Cromwell
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
75mm Vickers HV: penetration 145mm; damage 135
Armoring
Hull: 64mm/32mm/32mm, turret: 76mm/63mm/56mm
Durability
750 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 64km/h, engine: 650HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat, scout
Cromwell is the fastest medium tank available for the British technology tree- it can easily reach the speed of 64km/h. Unfortunately, to reach this speed, it is necessary to give up on the heavy armor, which results in the susceptibility to being penetrated by any enemy encountered in the battlefield. This unique combination of a light and medium tank is one of the most interesting vehicles of tier six, available for the players, and probably, the most pleasant to handle. The available cal. 75mm Vickers HV cannon has no great penetration value but, if combined with the easiness to flank the enemies, it is sufficient to destroy the encountered enemy tank.
Some of the modules used by the Cromwell can be developed on the earlier Crusader and the Valentine Mk.III tanks (heavy tanks branch). After you have mounted the 6-pounder Mk.V (L/50) cannon, you should develop a new driving unit: Rolls-Royce Meteor. Here, you can choose to develop a better engine: the Rolls-Royce Meteor Mk.IVB, or to increase your tank's firepower, by unlocking the turret and mounting the 75mm Mk.V cannon. To be able to use the best weapon available for you, (75mm Vickers HV) you will have to improve on your suspension. The final step is concerned with unlocking the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: camouflage net, binocular telescope, coated optics
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Except for the front of the turret, which can sometimes repel a low-caliber shell, if angled properly, this tank is incredibly easy to penetrate. The 64mm armor is no protection, against cannons of tier five or six, to speak of.
...as the driver of the Cromwell?
...against the Cromwell?
Name
Comet
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
OQF 77mm cannon Mk.II: penetration 148mm; damage 140
Armoring
Hull: 76mm/43mm/32mm, turret: 111mm/63mm/57mm
Durability
1150 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 51km/h, engine: 650HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
In comparison with Cromwell, the Comet is a much slower vehicle. Its armor is still very weak but, after you have unlocked all of the upgrades, it gains its greatest advantage - the turret with armor plating to the cannon. This is this module that, in combination with excellent depression of the cannon,, and reliable mobility, makes this tank one of the best tier seven tanks. In spite of being equipped with quite weak cannon (it is necessary to have a dozen-or-so subcaliber shells) in good hands, this tank is capable of flanking and destroying heavier opponents with ease.
From the very beginning, you have access to the 75mm Vickers HV cannon and the Rolls-Royce Meteor Mk.IVB engine, which you have developed for Cromwell. The next step is to develop improved suspension, the turret and finally, a new cannon.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: camouflage net, binocular telescope, coated optics, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Just like in the case of Cromwell, the Comet's hull is incapable of stopping, virtually, any shell fired against it. The improved turret (1150 health points ) has a very thick armor plate that is capable of repelling even the largest-caliber shells. It is the only strong point in this vehicle's armor and, unfortunately, often the only fragment that you will be capable of firing at.
...as the driver of the Comet?
...against the Comet?
Name
Centurion Mk.I
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
OQF 20-pdr Type A Barrel: penetration 226mm; damage 230
Armoring
Hull: 76mm/51mm/38mm, turret: 165mm/112mm/90mm
Durability
1450 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 750HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper, passive scout
The Centurion Mk.I starts a line of British universal tanks - vehicles of good mobility, the highest penetration value, among tier eight tanks and large firepower. This vehicles, just like its predecessors, is poorly armored and is quite bulky but, thanks to the perfect gun elevation, and thick cannon armor, it is capable of conducting fire from behind elevations or ruins, while exposing the most resistant part of its armor. This vehicle is similar to the American Pershing, in the way it plays.
First of all, you should develop the OQF 17-pdr Mk.VII cannon (it can be unlocked while playing the Black Prince heavy tank). Then develop: better suspension, a new turret and a new OQF 20-pdr Type A Barrel. After you re-equip the vehicle, you can complete developing the remaining modules.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, binocular telescope
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved ventilation, coated optics, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Just like with the remaining British medium tanks, the hull's armoring is no obstacle for the shells fired at you. The Glacis plate can, occasionally, repel a shell, but this happens extremely rarely. The turret of the vehicle is equipped with very thick cannon armor, which is impossible to be pierced with most cannons. If you can hit weak points of the enemy vehicles, you can attempt firing several shells at the roof of the turret, right above the cannon armor.
Direct hits into the front of the vehicle often damages the ammo compartment, and the engine is located at the hull's rear.
...as the driver of the Centurion Mk.I?
...against the Centurion Mk.I?
Name
Centurion Mk.7/1
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
105mm Royal Ordnance L7A1: penetration 268mm; damage 390
Armoring
Hull: 121mm/51mm/35mm, turret: 165mm/112mm/112mm
Durability
1720 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 950HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper, passive scout
The Centurion Mk.7/1 is the logical successor of the Centurion Mk.I tank. Practically every element has been improved here: it has better glacis plate, a stronger driving unit and, which is the most important, it has the best cannon available for tier nine medium tanks: the 105mm Royal Ordnance L7A1. This vehicle drives identically with the predecessor, but thanks to new armament, it is capable of damaging any vehicle in the game. Additionally, the availability of the HESH ammo, for this tank, allows it to deal damage at the cost of the penetration value - these shells allow it to win one-on-one duels with the other tier nine medium tanks.
The first module that it is necessary to install, is new suspension. Only after that, will you be able to mount the OQF 20-pdr Type A Barrel cannon (or the Type B, if you have already developed it for the Caernarvon). Now, you should unlock a new turret and the 105mm Royal Ordnance L7A1 cannon. The Rolls-Royce Griffon engine (available also for the Conqueror and the FV215b) and the radio are supposed to be unlocked as the last.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, binocular telescope
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved ventilation, coated optics, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring of the Centurion Mk.7/1 is identical with the one in the Centurion Mk.I, apart for one slight exception: its glacis plate is 121mm thick, which sometimes allows it to repel shells of the penetration value of 175mm, and protect the vehicle from fire from light tanks. The turret of the vehicle is equipped with a very thick cannon armor, which is impenetrable for most weapons. If you know how to reach the enemy tanks' weak points, you can try shooting at the roof of the turret, right above the cannon armor.
Direct hits into the vehicle's front often damage the ammo compartment and the engine is located at the hull's rear.
...as the driver of the Centurion Mk.7/1?
...against the Centurion Mk.7/1?
Name
FV4202
Type
Medium tank
Tier
X
Armament
105mm Royal Ordnance L7A1: penetration 268mm; damage 390
Armoring
Hull: 121mm/51mm/32mm, turret: 196mm/196mm/35mm
Durability
1950 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 810HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper, passive scout
The FV4202 is another universal tank available for the British. This tank, as an improvement on the Centurion Mk.7/1, introduces several changes, in comparison with the predecessor. It is lighter and better armored, its turret has a new shape and the time necessary to reload, between individual shots, is shorter. These changes allow this tank fit between the other tier ten medium tanks, while not affecting its playing style - the experienced drivers of the Centurion tanks will feel at home with the FV4202.
FV215b has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, binocular telescope
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved ventilation, coated optics, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Although the FV4202 is a bit smaller than the Centurion Mk.7/1, its hull is still quite poorly armored. The only discernible change is the increased angle of the front armor plate, thanks to which it is capable of repelling some of the shells fired by the vehicles of tier eight. The lower armor plate and the sides of the hull, are still vulnerable to any enemy fire. The turret of the FV4202 is, unfortunately, weaker than in the case of the Centurion tanks, because it has not been fitted with cannon armor. In spite of the increased angle of the front armor, it is much easier to penetrate than in the case of the predecessor.
Direct hits into the vehicle's front often damage the ammo compartment and the engine is located at the hull's rear.
...as the driver of the FV4202?
...against the FV4202?
Name
Sherman Firefly
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
OQF 17-pdr Gun Mk. VII: penetration 171mm / 239mm; damage 150; rate of fire: 12,31 shoots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 50mm/38mm/38mm; Turret: 76mm/50mm/50mm
Durability
750 health points
Mobility
Max speed: 36km/h, engine: 400HP
Sherman Firefly is a British version of one of the most popular tanks from the second World War. It is different from its American version mostly in turret and mounted cannon. Firefly is a medium tank with average mobility. It weights 36t and its engine has only 400KM so one can't expect it to have nice acceleration. It's a typical support tank that should stay on the second line or even play the role of a sniper. If you play with Firefly you take the most of the great cannon that he posses. 171mm penetration on tier VI is enough to break through any target and 4,5 seconds reload time makes it a really powerful weapon. This cannon is quite accurate as well so you might remain in the back. The biggest disadvantage of Firefly is its hull. It's a high tank and its frontal armor has only 50mm and is not well angled. The turret is slightly better, it's small and pretty well armored. You can try hulldown tactics with this tank, but it might be tricky due to the low gun depression of the cannon. This vehicle requires some time to get used to it and fully learn its possibilities, but when you do learn it, he will become one of the best British vehicles. It is worth mentioning that with better results it's a good tank to earn money. One bullet costs only 175 silver, and repair cost of entire vehicle is about 7,000.
Priority for Sherman Firefly is to develop and mount the best cannon - OQF 17-pdr Gun Mk. VII. Other modules can wait, even maxed-out engine won't make a great difference to vehicle mobility.
Recommended equipment: medium-caliber tank gun rammer, improved guidance system, binocular telescope
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Sherman Firefly has rather weak armor. Front hull has only 50mm of thickness and is very huge. You don't need to aim to hard to penetrate it. You must take caution of lower part of the vehicle that is well angled and bullets can ricochet from it. Situation is more complicated when you see only Firefly's turret. You shouldn't shot at cannon's mantlet which adds additional 40mm to the basic thickness of the tower (which is 76mm). Shot at the sides of the tower. The right side is better since it doesn't have the additional plate. When the tank stands on the side or back to you, then you don't have to bother with precise aiming and just shoot it.
...as a driver of Sherman Firefly?
Stay behind heavy tanks, in a safe distance from the center of the fights. With your armor and size, you can't afford to have enemy fire concentrated on you.
Take the most from your cannon. Thanks to its accuracy and rate of fire you can try to detrack your enemy and then destroy him.
If it's possible search for positions where you can show only your turret. It might be difficult while fighting on hills, but in a city it is easy. The turret is placed high, so you should easily issue it over a wall or in a window.
...against Sherman Firefly?
Shoot mostly in the hull, you should easily penetrate it.
Don't try to fight with Sherman Firefly in open terrain. With the penetration and rate of fire of his cannon you have low chances for victory. Even if your tank is well armored the accuracy of his armor will allow him to shoot your weakpoints.
Shot, and then hide behind some obstacles to reload.
If you can choose between two targets to shoot, choose Sherman. He can be more dangerous than many heavy tanks.
Name
Matilda
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IV
Armament
QF 2-pdr Mk. X-B: penetration 121mm; damage 55;
Armor
Hull: 75mm/70mm/55mm, turret: 75mm/75mm/75mm
Durability
370 hit points
Mobility
Top speed: 24km/h, engine: 190KM
Sight range
330m
Role
Close range combat, Medium range combat.
Matilda is a slow British medium tier IV tank with great armor. This tank is a successor to pretty weak Vickers Medium Mk. III. For a medium tank its extremely slow, but his great armor compensates it. It is very hard to penetrate this tank, since its thick armor ricochets virtually every bullet of tier III, IV and sometimes even V tanks. It is great for close range combat and for breaking enemy lines of defense. Sadly, when the game puts you against tier VI you are basically useless.
Start the tank development with the engine, which will add some speed. Then develop the best gun QF 2-pdr Mk. X-B with which you will fight. At the end buy the suspension and new turret MK. IIA*.
Recommended equipment: improved ventilation, improved guidance system, coated optics.
Optional equipment: binocular telescope, medium spall liner.
Consumables: Repair kit, health kit, pudding and tea.
Skills and perks
Commander (radio operator)
Sixth sense
Gunner
Snap shot
Driver
Smooth ride
This tanks has very well armored hull and turret. The best way to destroy this tank is to shoot at the back hull at the engine altitude (60mm armor). It has one weakspot at the front - it's the driver viewfinder (70mm armor) The tracks have a protection from layer armor.
Weak points - Matilda - front.
Weak points - Matilda - back....as the driver of Matilda?
When you're the highest tier on the battlefield, you should fight at the frontline, try to break enemy lines of defense. Don't be afraid of staying at the frontline, but avoid remaining alone in open terrain, for low speed of this tank makes him an easy target for artillery.
If you fight against tier V vehicles, play on medium distance. Use the nice rate of fire of your cannon for destroying lone targets. Avoid bullets shot from tier V tanks because they have enough penetration to pierce your armor.
In a battle against tier VI avoid losing hit points at any cost. Play safely, try to help your allies from the second line since for most tier 6 and 5 tanks slow Matilda will be an easy target to eliminate.
...against Matilda?
If you play with a tank that has tier lower than Matilda try to aim at her weak spots or attack the back hull. Never face her "one on one" since this tank will easily bounce off most of your bullets.
When playing with tier V and VI you can use your speed and gun penetration to destroy this tank. Matilda is a very easy target in that situation. Matilda gun has nice rate of fire, deals low damage but has enough penetration to take some of your hit points.
It is an easy target for artillery since its low speed.
Name
Churchill I
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
75mm Vickers HV: penetration 145mm; damage 135
Armoring
Hull: 89mm/63mm/76mm, turret: 89mm/89mm/76mm
Durability
700 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 25km/h, engine: 350HP
Role
Medium distance combat, close combat
Churchill I is the first British heavy tank available in the game. This vehicle is, to some extent, a counterpart of the Soviet KV-1: it is sluggish, well armored, has a lot of health points and a cannon that can deal with opponents in no time at all. This tank is good for both combat over medium distance, where it is capable of destroying the enemy using the high accuracy of the 75mm Vickers HV cannon, and also block the crucial points, or lead an attack, while taking on the enemy fire. Mastering this vehicle will be profitable for you because, the next two vehicles (Churchill VII and the Black Prince) are nearly identical in how they play.
Before you start playing with Churchill I, I recommend that you develop completely the Valentine Mk. III medium tank, thanks to which you will have access to several, already unlocked cannons. Depending on your preferences, you can remain with the QF 2-pdr Mk. X cannon, or mount OQF 3-inch Howitzer Mk. I. the next step is the development of the new suspension and the turret. After you mount these modules, you will be able to replace armament to the 75mm cannon Mk. V. Now you only have to unlock, the slightly more effective, 75mm Vickers HV cannon, the engine and the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, vertical stabilizer
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. You can also try selecting a skill that improves on the tank handling, like the clutch braking or the off-road driving.
At first look, Churchill I may look as if it was nearly indestructible but, the practice will quickly verify that. The plates of the armoring, in spite of their thickness, are quite easy to penetrate, because the angle of their inclination is not too high. For that reason, if only you have the cannon capable of penetrating 100mm of armor, you only need to position yourself at the angle of 90 degrees, towards the Churchill I and start your fire. While attacking the tank from the front, you can aim at the tracks, because unlike in the case of the other vehicles, you can deal damage if you score a hit. Apart from that, at the front, there are several smaller points that are vulnerable to fire - they have been marked in the picture. While attacking Churchill I from the side, it is sufficient to aim at the center of the hull, best towards the rear of the vehicle, in hope to set the vehicle on fire.
Churchill I, just like most of the vehicles, has access to two various turrets. It is worth knowing, however, that the vehicle, while equipped with its basic version, has the front much better armored than while mounted with the improved turret. If you encounter the Churchill I with 650 health points , do not attack this point. In the case, in which the enemy tank has 700 health points you can easily fire at the turret - it is much weaker and the cannons, of the penetration value of 100mm, can penetrate it without any problems.
I recommend against attacking the Churchill I if it is angled towards you- both its sides and the front reflect a lot of shells, and the enemy is capable of defeating you, thanks to its firepower.
...as the driver of the Churchill I?
...against the Churchill I?
Name
Churchill VII
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
OQF 77mm cannon Mk. II: penetration 148mm; damage 140
Armoring
Hull: 152mm/95mm/50mm, turret: 152mm/95mm/95mm
Durability
880 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 20km/h, engine: 350HP
Role
Medium distance combat, close combat
Churchill VII is another infantry tank available in the game, which you unlock while using the Churchill I. Just like its predecessor, it has an excellent armor (the thickest from among the tanks of the sixth tier) and a reliable cannon. It also has the same design flaws: it is much slower than Churchill I, its larger mass makes the driving unit of the power of 350HP insufficient and its spin takes as long as a dozen-or-so seconds. It is not the best tier six tank, but in the right hands, it is a reliable vehicle, both during the defense of the base and in attack.
From the very beginning, you can use the cannons developed for Churchill I. First of all, develop a new turret, then suspension (it will enable you to mount additional equipment) the cannon, the engine and the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, vertical stabilizer
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. You can also try selecting skills that improve the tank's handling, like the clutch braking or the off-road driving.
In Churchill VII, almost all flaws of the predecessor's have been improved upon. Practically the entire front is plated with armor of the thickness of 152mm and, if you do not pack a cannon that is strong enough, you should not attack this vehicle from the front, nor from the back. The exception are the tracks, which cover the poorly protected hull. With the cannon, of the penetration value of, around 130mm, you can attempt to attack them from the front and hope that your shell manages to penetrate the internal armor and deals damage. The side of the hull, after it is angled, is just as resistant to direct hits as the front. Due to that, it is necessary that you attack this tank while at an angle of 90 degrees to it. The rear armoring is very weak and it can be penetrated, practically, by any cannon.
The front of the Churchill VII's hull is as resistant as the hull, and the sides are protected with, only, 95mm of armor. Unfortunately, the links of the tracks are suspended down from it, which increases resistance to fire - hitting any of them will deal no damage to the enemy.
...as the driver of the Churchill VII?
...against the Churchill VII?
Name
Black Prince
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
OQF 17-pdr cannon Mk. VII: penetration 171mm; damage 150
Armoring
Hull: 152mm/95mm/25mm, turret: 152mm/95mm/95mm
Durability
1450 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 20km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Medium distance combat, close combat
The Black Prince is the last one of the British infantry tanks. Just like its predecessors, this tank is well armored, has a lot of health points and has a cannon of high rate of fire. Still, its top speed and maneuverability are low. In spite of its downsides, it is a very dangerous opponent, capable of defeating any vehicle of its own tier, while in one-on-one duels - it is a reliable but, unfortunately, sluggish tank.
Start by developing the OQF 17-pdr cannon Mk. VII, Then, unlock the Rolls-Royce Meteor engine, suspension and the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. You can also try selecting the skills that improve on the performance of the tank, such as the clutch braking or the off-road driving.
The front armoring of the Black Prince's is almost identical with the one on the Churchill VII. It is 152mm thick all over and its only weak points is the fragment of the hull behind the tracks. With the cannon of the penetration value of 200mm, you can easily fire at the front of the Black Prince - only occasionally will the shots ricochet. The sides of the tank, if angled, are resistant to most attacks - fire at them only if they are inclined at a low angle.
The front of the Black Prince's turret is its most resistant fragment - it has a very thick plate capable of repelling any shot fired at it. While firing at the turret of this tank, you should aim at the small, flat fragments and avoid hitting its center. The sides are considerably weaker and any cannon of the seventh tier should be capable of penetrating it without major problems.
...as the driver of the Black Prince?
...against the Black Prince?
Name
Caernarvon
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
OQF 20-pdr Type B Barrel: penetration 226mm; damage 230
Armoring
Hull: 130mm/51mm/38mm, turret: 165mm/112mm/90mm
Durability
1600 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 34km/h, engine: 810HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper
Caernarvon breaks up with the tradition of the sluggish infantry tanks: unlike the vehicles like the Churchill and the derivatives, this vehicle is much faster, but poorly armored. It has an excellent cannon: OQF 20-pdr Type B Barrel of very high accuracy, which emulates the German cannons, and an excellent elevation arc of the cannon. Thanks to the high amount of health points, the Caernarvon is capable of fighting one-on-one duels with all vehicles of the eighth tier. Unfortunately, it also has a number of flaws, which make this vehicle not too popular with the players of the World of Tanks.
First of all, you should make sure that you increase your firepower, by unlocking a new turret and the OQF 20-pdr Type A Barrel cannon. The next step depends on whether you are using additional equipment: if this is the case, then you are going to need to replace suspension; if not, you can start gathering points for the new engine The OQF 20-pdr Type B Barrel cannon is not required for the Conqueror to be unlocked, but I recommend that you unlock it, still on the Caernarvon, which will make it easier to use the next vehicle.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The Carnarvon heavy tank received a completely new hull, which is a far cry from the one on the Churchill family tanks. The armoring of this vehicle is thinner than in the case of the infantry tanks, but it has been angled, relative to the enemy, which results in a similar resistance to fire to the one in the Black Prince. The glacis plate repels shells, of the penetration value of 175mm on a regular basis , but it will have problems against better ammo. The lower-front armor is very thin and, in spite of considerable angle of inclination, it can be penetrated by most shells. The sides of the Caernarvon are very weak and does not protect it against any attack. The tank, when angled, can be easily penetrated, both on the lower-front armor plate and in the side armoring.
The turret of the Caernarvon is protected with a very thick cannon armor, known from the Black Prince - shots fired at this area are bound to ricochet. The remaining elements of the front armor of the turret, can be easily penetrated by cannons of the penetration value of 175mm, or higher.
The Caernarvon is very vulnerable to critical hits. If you attack its back, you can set it on fire easily and, after you fire at the lower-front armor plate, you can often damage the ammo compartment and wound the driver.
...as the driver of the Caernarvon?
...against the Caernarvon?
Name
Conqueror
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
120mm cannon L1A1: penetration 269mm; damage 400
Armoring
Hull: 130mm/51mm/38mm, turret: 152mm/89mm/70mm
Durability
1950 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 34km/h, engine: 950HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper
The Conqueror is the successor of the Caernarvon; the hull of this tank is identical with one discernible difference: the new turret equipped with one of the best cannons in the game - the 120mm L1A1 cannon. As you unlock the successive modules, you will get the feeling that you move on the Caernarvon with a larger pool of health points, but this ordeal is worth it: the elite Conqueror is a dangerous opponent whose name of the universal tank is fully earned.
The development of the Conqueror is immensely time-consuming, which is why you should use up the spare experience whenever possible. You start by mounting the OQF 20-pdr Type B Barrel cannon, developed for the Caernarvon. Then, develop the turret and suspension, and finally the 120mm L1A1 cannon. You will receive the Rolls-Royce Griffon engine for free, after you unlock the FV215b - if the mobility of the Conqueror works for you, you can easily skip this step.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of the Conqueror is identical with the one in the Caernarvon. The glacis plate repels shells, of the penetration value of 175mm, on a regular basis, but it will have considerable problems with stopping better ammo. The lower-front armor plate is very thin and, in spite of being inclined at a considerable angle, it can be pierced by most shells. The sides of the Conqueror are very weak and they do not protect the tank from any attack. When positioned at an angle, the vehicle can be easily penetrated both on the lower-front plate and the side armor mentioned above.
The turret of the Conqueror is quite weak and, if you fire at specific points, you will be able to penetrate it with cannons, of the penetration value of 175mm. The cupola, the turret ring, or the sides of the turret, right next to the cannon - all of these points are easy to damage. The cannon armor is, practically, indestructible - if you aim at this point, the shell will deal no damage to the Conqueror.
The Conqueror is highly vulnerable to critical hits. If you attack its rear, you can easily set it on fire and shots fired against the lower-front armor often damage the ammo compartment and wound the driver.
...as the driver of the Conqueror?
...against the Conqueror?
Name
FV215b
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
120mm cannon L1A1: penetration 269mm; damage 400
Armoring
Hull: 152mm/101mm/76mm, turret: 254mm/152mm/101mm
Durability
2500 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 34km/h, engine: 950HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, sniper
The FV215b, i.e. the prototype of the next gen universal tank. Its playing style is similar to the one on the Conqueror but, you will quickly discover one difference: the turret of this tank is mounted onto the back of the hull, which considerably affects your capability of fighting from behind elevations, and during maneuvers in developed areas. The tankmen, who already received their baptism of fire on the German VK 4502 (P) Ausf. B should be able to take advantage of the unique design of the FV215b, to its fullest.
The FV215b has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hull of the FV215b is similar, in its shape, to the one that you see on its predecessors. As usually, the lower-front plate is an easy target and, practically, any shot fired at it, deals damage to the vehicle. The glacis plate is very resistant to damage and you should avoid firing at it - even cannons of the penetration value of 270mm will often ricochet. The sides of this vehicle are just as vulnerable to fire as in the case of the Caernarvon and the Conqueror - again, they only are 51mm thick. The 101mm, visible in the tanks description, protects only the upper side of the hull, above the track line.
The turret of the FV215b has been considerably improved, in comparison with the Conqueror. The cannon armor is still indestructible and the shots fired at the sides of the turret will ricochet in most cases.
The ammo compartment has been moved towards the rear of the tank, which is why it is not going to be damaged from shells into the front armor plate. The engine is at the center of the hull.
...as the driver of the FV215b?
...against the FV215b?
The vehicles originating in the USSR are, right after the German tanks, the group that is the most frequently used in the game. These tanks are very reliable and, apart from the few exceptions, most of them drive with pleasure.
After you start playing with the Soviet tanks, you receive two paths of development: you can either choose the branch of heavy tanks, represented by the KV-1, or the branch of medium tanks, where you encounter one of the most well-known vehicles of World War II - the T-34. If you take the former path, you will reach a fork pretty soon and you will have to take another decision: Armoring or Mobility ?
The branch of the Soviet heavy tanks, which are highly resistant to fire, starts with the KV-4, and ends with the IS-4. These vehicles are very slow but, if you are ambushed, their armor will save you not once, and not twice. They also are perfect to launch the attack and attract the attention of all the enemy vehicles. The high amount of health points in these tanks, allows them to pull, such a maneuver, off and survive until the end of the battle.
The other branch of the Soviet tanks is not that well armed, thanks to which these vehicles can move around the battlefield much faster. Tanks, such as the IS-3, or the IS-7, are capable of following medium tanks and support them with their large-caliber cannons, while widening the holes made in the enemy lines by light tanks. Additionally, the unique armor shape guarantees them with sufficient resistance to damage - the enemy has to spend some time to aim well; otherwise the shell will ricochet. The combination of these features makes these tanks the most often selected ones, by experienced players.
The soviet tanks are universal vehicles. Starting with the T-34, through the T-44, through the T-54 and the T-62A, these vehicles can perform nearly any role in the battlefield The quick raids behind the enemy lines, defending a position or exchange of fire over medium distance - each one of these options is available here. Disadvantages? Unfortunately, these vehicles are quite easy to set on fire and their ammo compartments are easy to damage. In spite of that, they are ones of the most popular vehicles in the game.
Just like in the case of heavy tanks, tank destroyers are also divided into two groups. You can choose here from among vehicles of medium mobility, but high damage dealt to the opponent (like the ISU-152), or the faster and more maneuverable ones, equipped with cannons of high rate of fire (the SU-100M1 or the SU-101). In both cases, the vehicles have excellent camouflage factor, which allows them to set ambushes on the enemy forces.
The final group of the vehicles which is worth attention is self-propelled guns. Here, you can choose from the vehicles that are completely different from each other. The SU-26 that is easy to unlock, is one of the best artilleries in its tier. It can easily hit enemies hidden behind rocks or ruins, and thanks to the rotating turret, it can select the successive targets quickly. Tier six artillery, the S-51, is armed with one of the biggest cannons in the game - this vehicle is capable of destroying, virtually, any machine available for the players, with one shell. The final vehicle available for the Soviets is the Object 261, which is the most accurate self-propelled gun in the game. As you can see, everyone can find here something for himself.
Name
T-34
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
57mm ZiS-4: penetration 112mm; damage 85
Armoring
Hull: 45mm/45mm/40mm, turret: 52mm/52mm/45mm
Durability
450 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 500HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, close combat
No game about the World War II can do without the legendary Soviet tank, i.e. the T-34. Also into the World of Tanks, this tank found its way and you encounter it for the first time after you reach tier V. It is an universal vehicle of high top speed, good acceleration, a medium amount of health points, medium armoring and a perfect 57mm ZiS-4 cannon with high rate of fire. It is thanks to this cannon that the tank stands out from vehicles of tier five: the damage that it deals is low, but thanks to the high rate of fire of the cannon, it is capable of defeating even a bigger opponent. Thanks to its mobility, it can circle around the slower vehicles and fire at their weak points, as well as to move around the map quickly. It is a perfect support for any group of medium tanks and often, it is on this tank that the course of the battle will depend.
After you finish playing with the A-20, you should already have unlocked the V-2-34 engine- mount it onto your tank. Then, you should develop the 57mm ZiS-4 cannon as quickly as possible (you can also obtain it while playing on the T-28 medium tank). The next step to take is developing a new T-34 Mod. 1942 turret, and suspension, which will considerably increase your effectiveness in the battle (the rotation speed, range of vision and reload time ). The 76mm S-54 cannon is the last one to develop, but do not mount it onto the vehicle.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring of the T-34 allows it to repel only some of the shells fired by tier three and four vehicles - during a fight with tanks equal to yours, it does not ensure sufficient protection against enemy fire. The glacis plate and the side armor can easily be penetrated by cannons of the penetration value of 80mm. The turret is slightly more resistant than the rest of the tank - cannons of tier five can easily penetrate it, not counting the inopportune hits into the points, where there is the turret's front armor, under the turret armor.
...as the driver of the T-34?
...against the T-34?
Name
T-34-85
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
85mm D5T-85BM: penetration 144mm; damage 180
Armoring
Hull: 45mm/45mm/45mm, turret: 90mm/75mm/52mm
Durability
720 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 54km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank
The T-34-85 is a modified T-34 medium tank, equipped with a better driving unit, a bigger and better armored turret and, of course, a new cannon: the 85mm D5T-85BM. This change in equipment directly influences the way of fighting on this vehicle - this time you will be conducting fire at short distances. Thanks to the greater penetration value of the new cannon, you will be able to defeat any opponent that you encounter - of course, while fighting the heavier vehicles, it is necessary to flank them first and attack afterwards. The higher damage dealt by your ammo also allows you to fire single shots and retreat to reload - a tactic unavailable for the T-34.
In the first place, you should develop and mount a new turret, and a new 85mm D5T-85BM cannon onto your vehicle. In spite of the weak driving unit, with such armament, you will be able to fight easily against enemies of the same, or even higher, tiers. The next step is to develop a new engines; suspension is to be developed as the last, in the case of the T-34-85-60. Before your adventure with the T-34-85 ends, you should develop all the available modules, because most of them will make their way into the successive vehicles: the T-43 and the KV-13.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The hill's armoring in the T-34-85 is identical with the one in the T-34 and it ensures, almost, no protection against tier five vehicles, and higher: it only takes 80mm of penetration value to penetrate your front or the back. The turret has been lightly enhanced and its front is now protected with 90mm thick steel plate. The shells fired at it will ricochet occasionally, but you will be able to damage the vehicle in the majority of cases.
...as the driver of the T-34-85?
...against the T-34-85?
Name
KV-13
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
85mm D5T-85BM: penetration 144mm; damage 180
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/85mm/60mm, turret: 100mm/90mm/90mm
Durability
1120 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank
The KV-13 is not a typical medium tank: it combines speed with reliable armor. Unfortunately, due to the fact that it is a transitory tank, which connects the medium and heavy tanks branches, and the lack of direct descendants, this vehicle is not used very often. An additional downside are the frequent clashes with tier nine vehicles, where the KV-13 has immense problems damaging the enemy.
From the very beginning, you have access to the 76mm S-54 cannon, and to the V-2IS engine- you should mount these immediately. Then, develop new suspension and a turret. Also, mount the 85mm D5T-85BM cannon. Now, you can develop the remaining modules.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The front armoring of the KV-13 resembles the front-side of the IS, in its shape. You can find two weak points here: the lower-front armor plate and the driver's visor. The glacis plate is capable of withstanding direct hits of the penetration value of 130mm and, after the tank is angled, even 150mm. The central part of the glacis plate, due to its inclination, will usually repel the shells fired at it. The sides of the KV-13 are protected both by the thick tracks and d armoring of the thickness of 85mm. After the vehicle is situated at an angle of, around 30 degrees, it will require a cannon of the penetration value of 200mm, or higher, to penetrate it on a regular basis.
The turret in the KV-13 is similar, in its shape, to the one that you can see on the IS. The front armor, in combination with the cannon armor, will be penetrated, on a regular basis, by cannons of the penetration value of 160mm; shots fired at the sides of the turret may easily slide off and ricochet.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine is at the back of the hull, as is the standard.
...as the driver of the KV-13?
...against the KV-13?
Name
T-43
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
85mm D5T-85BM: penetration 144mm; damage 180
Armoring
Hull: 75mm/75mm/75mm, turret: 90mm/90mm/90mm
Durability
1100 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 51km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank
The T-43 is a direct descendant of the T-34-85. Just like its predecessor, this vehicle is armed with the 85mm D5T-85BM cannon and has similar top speed and maneuverability. Additionally, its armoring has been considerably improved - it is, as much as, 75mm thick, on both sides, which allows it to repel shells fired by vehicles of a lower tier. Unfortunately, its turret is just as weak is in the case of the T-34-85, and it has some annoying feature: after it receives a direct hit, occasionally it explodes - this means that the enemy has destroyed your ammo compartment in one shot.
Right at the outset, you will have to develop new suspension and then the turret, to mount the 85mm D5T-85BM cannon, developed for the T-34-85, as well as the V-54K engine. You do not need to develop V-2-44 the driving unit, because it will be added automatically to the list, after you unlock the T-44 medium tank.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, Wet ammo rack.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
In its shape, the T-43 resembles the T-34-85 and not without a reason: in spite of thicker armoring, it encounters stronger opponents and, at the same time, its weak points remain the same. The angled hull is capable of reflecting low-caliber shells of the penetration value of 100mm - it only suffices to shoot, at the T-43, at an angle of 90 degrees and you will have no problems damaging it. The turret has 90mm thick armoring and, in practice, only the misaimed shots will ricochet. At the front, it is additionally protected by the cannon armor. Unfortunately, it is not too thick and most shells, of the penetration value of 130mm should be able to penetrate it.
The ammo compartment, as is the standard, is on the right of the turret and under it, right above the floor, the engine at the back of the hull.
...as the driver of the T-43?
...against the T-43?
Name
T-44
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
100mm LB-1: penetration 175mm; damage 230
Armoring
Hull: 90mm/75mm/45mm, turret: 120mm/100mm/100mm
Durability
1300 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 51km/h, engine: 680HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, close combat
The T-44 is the first soviet medium tank which, apart from fighting over medium distances, is capable of dueling with the other medium vehicles of its own tier, over the distance of above 50 meters. It is equipped with reliable glacis plate, a turret resistant to fire, and the armament consists of the effective 100mm LB-1 cannon. This vehicle is very fast and maneuverable, which allows it to fire several shots, retreat and prepare for another attack from another location. Additionally, its small size and perfect camouflage, make this tank difficult to spot and fire at.
Right at the outset, you should mount this vehicle with the 85mm D5T-85BM cannon. The next step should be the improvement of suspension and development of a new turret and the 100mm D10T cannon. Now, you can unlock the 100mm LB-1 cannon, and then the remaining modules, like the engine and the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved guidance system, Wet ammo rack.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The T-44's glacis plate has been inclined at a considerable angle, which results in the regular repelling of shells with the penetration value of 150mm. Shells of the penetration value of 175mm may sometimes ricochet but, in most cases, you should be able to deal damage. The lower-front armor plate is vulnerable to fire from low-caliber cannons - if there is no other possibility, you can try to hit this weak point in the T-44's armoring. The sides are vulnerable to fire - cannons of the penetration value of 175mm should be able to pierce, even if the tank is inclined at a low angle - the most important thing is to aim into the armoring right above the tracks.
The turret of the T-44 has only a 120mm thick armor, but its front is protected by a quite thick cannon armor, thanks to which, only shells of as much penetration value as 200mm will be able to deal damage here. This tank is quite low, which is why you may attempt hitting the cupola on the left side of the turret - most cannons should be capable of penetrating it and dealing damage.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine is at the back of the hull, as is the standard.
...as the driver of the T-44?
...against the T-44?
Name
T-54
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
100mm D-10T2C: penetration 201mm; damage 320
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/80mm/45mm, turret: 200mm/160mm/65mm
Durability
1650 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, close combat, scout
The T-54 is the continuation of the technological thought started with the T-44. This vehicle is faster than its predecessor, packs better armament and it is well armored, as for a medium tank. This vehicle has access to two different cannons: the 100mm D-54, which is more useful for stationary fights over medium distance (it has a better penetration value, but also longer aiming time and lower accuracy in motion) and the 100mm D-10T2C used for fights while circling the enemy, and for shooting in motion. Thanks to its low design, the T54 is very difficult to spot and hit and the relatively wide range of vision, it can often play the role of the scout. This vehicle is useful for both "hit and flee" tactics, as well as for frontal duels with any vehicle of a lower tier. It is excellent in duels one-on-one with the other medium tanks, and a wolfpack consisting of the T-54 tanks is capable of winning the entire battle on its own. It is one of the best vehicles of tier nine and the time devoted to mastering it, will be more than paid for.
The 100mm LB-1 cannon, which you have been using on the T-44, is available for you from the very beginning - you should immediately install it onto your vehicle. Then, develop a new turret and select either of the two cannons available for you. Now you can unlock the new engine, the radio and, finally, the other cannon (if you are going to win the elite status on the T-54) or the T-62A.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved guidance system, Wet ammo rack.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The glacis plate of the T54 has been improved upon, as compared to the one used with the T-44, and it belongs to the best ones, among tier nine medium tanks(and only the German E-50 has a similar level of protection). The glacis plate is capable of repelling shells, of the penetration of 200mm, on a regular basis and, after being inclined at a slight angle, it is resistant even to the shells of the penetration value of 220mm. The lower-front armor plate is slightly weaker (200mm of penetration value is sufficient to pierce it), but is a relatively small target. Additionally, at short distances, at which you are going to fight most often on the T-54, its angle of inclination is high enough to repel the shells fired at it automatically. Side armoring of the T-54 is slightly more resistant than the one in the T-44. Most of the shells fired at it will damage the vehicle (the condition: you need to aim right above the tracks, or be situated at a slight angle, relative to the side of the T-54).
The turret of the T-54 is very resistant to direct hits, both in the front and at the back - and only cannons of tier nine and ten, are capable of penetrating it. The remaining vehicles should aim at the cupola, which is quite difficult to get,. The back of the turret is poorly armored and, virtually, any direct hit is capable of damaging it at this point.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine is at the back of the hull, as is the standard.
...as the driver of the T-54?
...against the T-54?
Name
T-62A
Type
Medium tank
Tier
X
Armament
100mm D-54TS: penetration 264mm; damage 320
Armoring
Hull: 102mm/75mm/45mm, turret: 240mm/161mm/65mm
Durability
1950 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 580HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, close combat
The T-62A is the last medium tank available for Russians. This vehicle is discernibly slower than its predecessor, and much worse armored. In exchange for that, it has immense mobility (its rotation time is only several seconds long) and armed with a cannon of high rate of fire: the 100mm D-54TS. This cannon is capable of firing a shell every 5 seconds and so, damage that the T-62A can deal, per minute, is one of the highest in the game. Due to the relatively weak armoring, this vehicle should fight over medium distances and implement the "hit and flee" tactic. It is perfect for fighting in the urban environment, where it is very easy to immobilize the enemy vehicle and lay fire down on its weak points. The T-62A is not only a reliable tank, but also one of the most convenient vehicle to drive, available in the World of Tanks.
T-62A has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: camouflage net, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring pattern of the T-62A is identical with the one on the T-54. The most resistant fragment of the hull is the glacis plate, which is capable of reflecting shells of 175mm penetration value and, if angled, also 200mm. The lower armor plate is easy to penetrate, and so are the sides and the rear of the vehicle.
The turret of the T-62A is even more resistant than in the case of the T-54, and only several cannons, firing premium shells, are capable of damaging it. The back of the turret can still be penetrated with any given cannon in the game.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine is at the back of the hull, as is the standard.
...as the driver of the T-62A?
...against the T-62A?
Name
T-34-85M
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
85mm S-53: penetration 126mm/167mm; damage 160; rate of fire: 12 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 75mm/45mm/45mm
Durability
720 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 53km/h, engine: 500HP
T-34-85M is a Russian tier VI premium tank, which firstly was supposed to be available for completing a mission (instead we have been given mission for WZ-111) and currently can be bought for real money. He has much better armor than the standard T-34-85, bus is equipped with far worse cannon. The most important change is the front armor, which now has 75mm thickness set under good angle. Sadly, the cannon focus for a long time, is very inaccurate and has lower penetration than in the standard version of this tank. Mobility can be considered as an advantage of this tank. The power/weight ratio gives him a good acceleration up to 53km/h. This tank might interest collectors and fans of Russian technology, every other player should rather stay with the standard T-34-85.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, toolbox, improved ventilation
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
T-34-85M armor has been greatly upgraded since its predecessor. In front you will find a 75mm iron plate that is well angled. The real armor thickness at that spot is around 110mm. It is a very good result for a tier VI medium tank. If you don't have a cannon with good enough penetration, you should aim at lower plate or weakspots on the upper plates that are well visible. The front of the turret is well armored as well, you can find more than 100mm of armor there. You must avoid at all cost shooting at the mantlet of the turret. Even bullets with great penetration won't pierce through that spot. The sides and back of T-34-85M are much more thin and you don't have to aim to precisely to pierce them.
...as the driver of the T-34-85M?
Try to face your enemies from the front. You can set a little sidescrap, and even vehicles from one tier above might have trouble with getting through.
Remember that your cannon is not accurate, you will be forced to fight on close distance. This tank will work better in a city or closed locations.
Watch the situation on the map, don't let the enemies flank you from the side or the back. Try to fight with only one enemy at a time.
...against T-34-85M?
Avoid direct confrontation with T-34-85M on close distance. He has a very inaccurate cannon, but nice rate of fire and damage he deals is decent. In such circumstances you should retreat to safer distance.
Try aiming at the lower plate or weakspots on enemy armor.
T-34-85m has pretty big idlers on the tracks, so it is easy to damage them and immobilize the vehicle. Then you can try to flank the enemy and attack him from side or the back, where his armor is much weaker.
Name
KV-1
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
85 mm F-30: penetration 120mm; damage 160
Armor
Hull: 75mm/75mm/70mm, turret: 110mm/110mm/110mm
Durability
640 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 34km/h, engine: 500KM
Role
Medium range combat, fight in close combat
KV-1 is first heavy tank available for Soviet commanders. This tank I very slow and not maneuverable: the engine is very weak, thus reaching the maximum speed is very hard. On the other hand the armor is good enough to fight with all 5 tier tanks and range of available cannons should satisfy all players. After getting the elite status, this tank often gets its permanent place in the garage, while it is perfect to earn credits.
KV-1 has several development paths; the one proposed below allows us to quickly use the great firepower in order to gain experience.
First thing we should develop for KV-1 is 57 mm 413 cannon. Depending on our preferred gamestyle, this cannon can be sufficient till the end of our adventure with this tank. Next step should be researching M-17F engine and then suspension. With the increased capacity we will be able to mount a new turret, which will not only increase our HP, but is also so well armored that 5 tier guns will ricochet on it. At this point we should decide which gun we want to use. A 85 mm F-30 cannon has good penetration and 122mm U-11 howitzer allows us to shoot large shells. After developing suitable weapon, we research other modules and vehicles.
Despite the fact, that KV-1 is most armored 5 tier tank in the game, it still has some weak points. Most important of them is top front plate with driver sight and machine gun stand. Both these points are poorly armored and easy to penetrate. Top plate alone is quite resistant and to break through you need at least cannon of 100 mm penetration and shoot at right angle. Bottom plate armor is similar to one from the top plate and it is also to break through with cannon of 100 mm penetration. Middle front plate is almost impenetrable for 5 tier tanks and stronger tanks also can have problems with that. By shooting KV-1 from the side or rear try to attack at the right angle and hit above tracks. Since the armor at this point is 75mm/70mm thick, cannon of min. 80 mm penetration should inflict damage from time to time. By shooting at its rear we can set the tank on fire.
The KV-1 turret has 110 mm of armor on each side, thus we should never aim at it. In addition, on the front of the cannon, yoke is located, which increases its resistance.
...as a driver of KV-1?
...against KV-1?
Name
KV-2
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
107 mm ZiS-6: penetration 167mm; damage 300
Armor
Hull: 75mm/75mm/70mm, turret: 90mm/75mm/70mm
Durability
860 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 35km/h, engine: 560KM
Role
Medium range combat, fight in close combat
KV-2 is KV-1 with bigger turret capable of mounting new cannon 107mm ZiS-6 or howitzer 152 mm M-10. In addition to new, heavier turret, this vehicle has an access to better engine and has more HP. Selection of the cannon influences our role on the battlefield. 107mm ZiS-6 allows us to hit targets at medium distance and due to its good penetration and huge damage inflicted, it is able to damage and even destroy 7 and 8 tier tanks, not to mention weaker opponents. The 152 mm M-10 howitzer turns this tank almost into artillery. Due to low accuracy it is best to use it at short distance, but there are cases of hitting opponent from 500 meters. Despite the fact, that the cannon can load AP shells, it is better to use HE shells: with 152 mm of caliber, one good hit can destroy 6 tier tank and seriously damage even 8 tier vehicle.
First we have to decide, whether we want to fight at long distance or use the howitzer in a close combat and then research a proper gun. Next step is to research new suspension, the second turret and after than other missing modules and vehicles.
KV-2 hull has same weaknesses as KV-1. Despite the fact, that KV-1 is most armored 5 tier tank in the game, it still has some weak points. Most important of them is top front plate with driver sight and machine gun stand. Both these points are poorly armored and easy to penetrate. Top plate alone is quite resistant and to break through you need at least cannon of 100 mm penetration and shoot at right angle. Bottom plate armor is similar to one from the top plate and it is also to break through with cannon of 100 mm penetration. Middle front plate is almost impenetrable for 5 tier tanks and stronger tanks also can have problems with that. By shooting KV-2 from the side or rear try to attack at the right angle and hit above tracks. Since the armor at this point is 75mm/70mm thick, cannon of min. 80 mm penetration should inflict damage from time to time. By shooting at its rear we can set the tank on fire.
Turret of KV-2 is weaker than the one from KV-1 and has large, flat and easy to hit areas. Attack from the sides or rear penetrate it with no problems.
...as a driver of KV-2?
...against KV-2?
Name
T-150
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VI
Armament
107mm ZiS-6: penetration 167mm; damage 300
Armoring
Hull: 90mm/90mm/75mm, turret: 100mm/100mm/75mm
Durability
880 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Medium distance combat, close combat
In spite of its unique name, the T-150 is another enhancement of the KV-1. Unlike in the mobile KV-1S, in this version, what has been stressed is the heavier armoring and the cannon, which you have already seen on the KV-2: the 107mm ZiS-6 with high penetration value and short reload times.
This tank may seem useless, at first (especially if compared with the KV-1S and the KV-2), but it turns out to be a formidable opponent, for any tier six tank. The reliable armoring, very durable turret and a good cannon allow it to defeat the majority of opponents during one-on-one duels, and start the attack, if necessary - thanks to the high number of health points, it is capable of taking on the enemy's first salvo and pave the way for the rest of the squad.
From the very beginning, you have access both to the 122mm U-11 howitzer and to the 57mm 413 cannon of fast rate of fire: both of these canons should be first developed for the KV-1 and both will have its upsides and downsides, after mounted onto the new tank. In the case in which you have reached the T-150 along the path through the KV-2, you will also have access to the V-5 engine and to the 107mm ZiS-6 cannon, but you will not be able to use it yet, due to the lacking turret.
There are two paths of development for this vehicle. The first one focuses on the quick development of the turret and suspension and then, on mounting the 107mm ZiS-6 cannon, which will increase your firepower considerably., but causes problems connected with the insufficient engine. This path is often preferred by the users of the KV-2.
The players who reached the T-150 through the KV-1, should first develop the 85mm S-31 cannon, and then focus on the engine. The turret and suspension should be developed at the very end.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox.
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Just like the KV-1S is a half way through, between the KV-1 and the IS heavy tank, the T-150 is a tank between the KV-1 and the KV-3, and at the same time, it combines the features of both these vehicles. In spite of the familiar armoring pattern, its thickness has been increased to 90mm, which makes the tank more resistant to the cannons mounted on lower tier vehicles. While attacking the T-150, you should aim the very same points which you did in the case of the KV-1 but, as far as this is possible, you should angle your vehicle, in relation to the opponent.
The improved turret of the T-150 has the thick cannon armor seen on the KV-3: as far as possible, never fire at this fragment of the armoring, because it is often capable of withstanding direct hits without any low of the vehicle's health points. In the case in which you see no other way out and you need to attack the T-150 up front, you should target the cupola.
Shells fired at the front of the vehicle, right below the turret, are capable of damaging the ammo compartment; the engine is located at the rear side of vehicle, by shooting there, you can set the vehicle on fire.
...as the driver of the T-150?
...against the T-150?
Name
KV-1S
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
V
Armament
122 mm Howitzer S-41: penetration 61mm; damage 450
Armoring
Hull: 70mm/60mm/60mm; Turret: 82mm/75mm/75mm
Durability
660 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 43km/h, engine: 600HP
KV-1S has been greatly changes a while ago. The only thing similar to the previous tank is basically the name. All parameters has been changed, including the tier. Currently KV-1S is on V tier. The armor and the cannon have been weakened the most. The front plate is 70mm thick and is set under a small angle. It is still quite good armor for a V level tank. It's far worse with the cannon. KV-1S can have one of the two types of cannons, 122 mm Howitzer S-41 or 85mm S-31. The first one has low accuracy and penetration but deals a great amount of damage. The second one is more accurate, has low reload time, 120mm penetration and 160 damage points. It is quite a good cannon for a V level vehicle. The 122mm cannon is suggested anyway - it requires you to aim more precisely and to fight in close, but the damage dealt compensates that. You shoot with a high-explosive ammo so even if you won't penetrate enemy armor you will deal some damage. KV-1S is usually randomized on the top of the list so you will be able to destroy most enemies with a single shot. The vehicle has 600HP engine and it allows him to accelerate to 43 km/h. You shouldn't expect good acceleration speed from such heavy tank.
First you should develop two best cannons. Play few battles with both of them to see which one better suits you. To unlock the cannons it is possible that you will have to develop new turret and suspension first.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, toolbox, medium-caliber tank gun rammer
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
KV-1S armor gives enough protection for a tier V vehicle. Sadly, if your enemies are tanks from higher levels they will easily penetrate your armor from every side. The best position to shoot is the lower, perpendicular plate. Bullets should get there without any trouble. From a close distance you can shoot the driver viewfinder in the middle or commander hatch. It is not recommended to shoot near the base of the cannon since the armor can have even 150mm there. Back and side armor of KV-1S has the same thickness as the front one but is set on the right angle. It is better to shoot the trunk of the vehicle as the armor is 20mm less thick there.
...as the driver of the KV-1S?
Your tactic should depend mostly on what cannon do you have mounted. If you have the 122mm one you should get as close to the enemy as possible. If you have the 85mm cannon you can shoot from greater distance.
Try to put out only the turret, it is better armored than the rest of the vehicle.
You don't need to be afraid of duels 1vs1 with tanks that have level V or lower. You have great firepower.
...against the KV-1S?
If you can't penetrate the front armor try shooting the driver's sight or the lower plate.
Take caution what sort of cannon is mounted on the enemy vehicle. In the city the howitzer is more dangerous, and in greater distance the 85mm cannon is more deadly.
If your enemy has howitzer mounted and you're driving a weakly-armored tank you should increase your distance as quickly as possible. One shot will end with destruction of your tank. If you have a tank with good armor you can attack him, but make sure that your enemy can only shoot the front armor.
Name
KV-3
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
122 mm D-25T: penetration 175mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 120mm/90mm/80mm, turret: 130mm/115mm/115mm
Durability
1400 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 32km/h, engine: 750KM
Role
Close combat
KV-3 is another soviet KW series tank - this time we're dealing with first line vehicle, which is made for short range clashes. Despite a lower maximum speed this machine is more mobile than its predecessors due to the better engine. In addition the entire armor is thicker and new, more resistant turret can carry one of the strongest 7 tier cannons: 122 mm D-25T. A low accuracy of the gun combined with average mobility and very good armor and large amount of HP, create a tank that reigns in urban combat at short distances.
Newly purchased KV-3 has an access to the cannon developed for the previous machine - 107 mm ZiS-6, so it is worth to mount it right away. Next step is to research a new suspension and first engine: W-2IS. Thanks to that you'll be able to mount the turret and three more cannons available for this tank. Finally, I recommend developing and using the 122 mm cannon. Gun 100 mm D-10T is not bad, but it lacks fire power guaranteed by its stronger counterparts.
KV-3 is very resistant to damages - shells often easily rebound on its armor and some hits can return information about armor penetration despite no inflicted damage.
KV-2 hull looks like its counterparts in KV-1 and KV-2, but it is a bit longer. Attacking the tank from the front, we can aim at same weak points as its predecessors: driver sight and machine gun stand. But, unlike KV-1 and KV-2 I do not recommend attacking the top front plate around weak points - if the shell hits few cm higher or lower, it will ricochet. It is better to attack bottom front plate, which is bigger and easier target to hit. When attacking KV-3 from the side, we do the same as with its predecessors. The only difference is in additional 15 mm of armor, which should be no problem for 5 and higher tier tanks. In addition, penetration of the rear part of the hull damages the engine and set the tank on fire.
KV-3 turret is completely different story: despite theoretically low thickness of the armor it is very resistant to hits and is able to stand even cannons of 300 mm penetration. When we attack the tank from the front, we encounter a very thick cannon yoke (it "eats" our shots) and the proper armor behind it, set at the very high angle - our shots will almost ricochet on it. Sides of the KV-3 turret are relatively weakly armored, but its rounded shape allows for ricochets from time to time.
...as a driver of KV-3?
...against KV-3?
Name
IS
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
122 mm D-25T: penetration 175mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 120mm/90mm/60mm, turret: 100mm/100mm/100mm
Durability
1230 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 34km/h, engine: 700KM
Role
Close combat, support tank
IS (Iosif Stalin) is the first tank of this series, available for Soviet commanders. Although it is lighter and more mobile than KV-3, it has the same cannon and therefore it is forced to fights at short distance. IS's turret has cylindrical shape which rebounds many shells, but it lacks the thick cannon yoke, which would allow it "hugging" the enemy. Despite that, its increased mobility allows it to easy lean out from behind the cover, shoot and then hide for reloading. In addition, this tank is doing well during flanking enemy positions: it allows to attacks weaker sides, dealing large damage each time.
Assuming that our newly purchase tank has only one unlocked cannon, 122 mm D-25T, which comes from KV-1S, our first step should be researching a new turret and mounting the gun. After that we collect experience for other modules which increase our mobility (engine and suspension). We complete the research tree by developing missing cannons and tank IS-3.
IS is remarkably resistant vehicle and it can stand even hits from largest caliber cannons. Its hull is similar to one present in KV series: vulnerable bottom front plate, hard to break through middle plate and weak top front plate with weak point - driver sight. Sides and rear of the tank are as always vulnerable to fire and the engine and ammo rack are located in standard places.
IS's turret has rounded shape, so even strongest cannons won't penetrate it with the bad shot. If we have cannon with at least 160 mm, we can aim directly at cannon's yoke - most of shells should penetrate it. In addition, commander's cupola is very vulnerable target. Sides and rear of the turret are easy target for bigger caliber cannons.
...as a driver of IS?
When fighting with higher tier tanks, we have to flank them, because our front armor won't provide us with adequate protection. The method is to fire a shot and then to take cover to reload.
...against IS?
Name
IS-3
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
122 mm BL-9: penetration 225mm; damage 390
Armor
Hull: 110mm/90mm/60mm, turret: 220mm/110mm/110mm
Durability
1500 HP
Mobility
Maximum speed: 38km/h, engine: 700KM
Role
Close combat, Medium range combat, support tank
IS-3 is the second tank of IS series, available in the game. It is typical tank, used in close combat and to break down enemy defensive positions. Good armor, high mobility, great cannon - all these elements combine together result in probably best 8 tier heavy tank. Mastering this vehicle to perfection is not easy, but fight with it gives lot satisfaction: vary often it is us who decide about course of battle.
When playing IS-3, we have two ways of development: if we can use the 122mm D-25T cannon, we should research ne turret first. But if this gun makes us troubles, we should decide to develop 122 mm BL-9 immediately. Once we have new cannon and the turret, we research other modules and tank IS-8.
IS-3 is first tank in the game, which uses unusual shape of its front hull armor, so-called pike nose. Despite having only 110 mm of steel on the front, thanks to setting of the top front plate at natural angle, this tank doesn't have to be set at the angle during the fight - it is even not recommended. If we shoot at top plate "chicks", it is best to set our tank at the right angle and shoot the closer one. It is the only possibility to break through with the cannon of 175 mm penetration. Another weak point is bottom front plate. During the fight at 50-100 m distance, if our cannon hasn't at least 200 mm of penetration, we should attack that point. Sides of IS-3 are extremely resistant to fire! This tank owes the durability to the double armor. When shooting at top side plate we hit only 30 mm of steel and there is another 90 mm underneath, set at very high angle, thus attacks at that point can be only carried out with cannons of 225 mm penetration. If the side of IS-3 is set at angle to us, we never shoot it. Even strongest cannons can ricochet on it. Rear of the tank is very vulnerable to attack and there is an engine located under the armor. Ammo rack is located under the turret, thus by shooting from at front and aiming just above the soviet star on the front armor we are able to damage it. This is one of the biggest disadvantages of this vehicle.
The turret is almost indestructible from the front: 220 mm of armor set at high angle will rebound most of shots. In case when IS-3 "hugs" use, we can easily hit and penetrate its commander's cupola. Side armor of the turret is able sometimes to rebound shells, but in most cases it is easy to penetrate.
...as a driver of IS-3?
...against IS-3?
Name
KV-4
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
107mm ZiS-24: penetration 227mm; damage 320
Armoring
Hull: 180mm/150mm/90mm, turret: 180mm/150mm/140mm
Durability
1650 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 30km/h, engine: 1200HP
Role
Medium distance combat, sniper, close combat
KV-4 i.e. self propelled bunker and a giant on the feet of clay, at the same time. The characteristic feature of this vehicle is the very thick glacis plate, side armor, the huge tracks and the monstrous weight. It is also equipped with the 107mm ZiS-24 cannon, i.e. the Soviet counterpart of the cannon that the Tiger has been equipped with. This tank, due to its bulk, has a lot of flaws: it is sluggish, full rotation of the turret is the longest, among tier eight vehicles and it is a perfect target practice for artillery. Additionally, an experienced tankman can easily lay fire down at its weak points and eliminate the protection provided by the thick armor. However, after all of the modules are installed and the difficult art of driving the KV-4 is mastered, this tank can easily compete with its counterparts in the armies of the other nations.
The most important piece of equipment that you need to develop for the KV-4 is the ZiS-24 cannon. After you have obtained it, you can start saving up experience points for the ST-I, or buy the missing modules in the following order: suspension, the engine, the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system, spall liner
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. You can also try selecting the skills that improve on the tank's handling, like the clutch braking or the off-road driving.
In spite of the thick armor, the KV-4 has many weak points, which you can exploit while fighting this giant. All of the armor plates, on this tank, have been situated at an angle of 90 degrees, which is why it suffices to position your tank in front of them and make sure that you hit at an angle of 90 degrees - what you now need, is only to make sure that the penetration value of your cannon is higher than the enemy's armor. This will ensure damage. Especially effective are the attacks against the rear of this vehicle, because it is protected by the measly 90mm of steel.
The turret of the KV-4 also has many flat surfaces that are vulnerable to fire. Each direct hit, at the right angle, should penetrate this tank's armor without any problems. Frontal attacks are much more risky because of the cannon armor. You should aim next to it, or at the cupola atop the turret.
It is worth mentioning here about the thick tracks that the KV-4 is equipped with. Shooting at the side of the angled enemy will, almost always, result in a ricochet, or damaging its suspension, but will not deal any serious damage, nor any drop in health points of the enemy vehicle.
I recommend that, while fighting against the KV-4, you lay fire down on the rear side of the hull: the possible fire will facilitate the destruction of this giant.
...as the driver of the KV-4?
...against the KV-4?
Name
IS-8
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
122mm M62-T2: penetration 268mm; damage 440
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/80mm/60mm, turret: 201mm/129mm/50mm
Durability
1800 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 750HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat, close combat
IS-8 is the successor of the IS-3 heavy tank. Practically all the parameters, of the predecessor, have been enhanced here: the armor is thicker, a better cannon is mounted, the top speed is higher. Unfortunately, due to the fact that it encounters the regular tier nine and ten tanks, the slight improvements in the distribution of the armoring, have not improved this tank's resistance to fire greatly. For that reason, unlike the IS-3, which was a vehicle to breach enemy lines, playing the IS-8 resembles playing on a very heavy medium tank. It should circle the enemy forces, harass them with constant attacks and search for the most convenient moment to strike, and then join the main assault force to help eliminate the vehicles that remained in the game.
Again, the most important piece of equipment which you will have to develop is the 122mm M62-T2 cannon. Unfortunately, to mount it onto the vehicle, you are going to need to develop new suspension. Then, develop a new engine, new turret and the radio.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system, spall liner
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The general armoring pattern of the IS-8 is nearly identical with the one on the IS-3. Unfortunately, the armor is slightly thicker than on the predecessor and the penetration value of the cannons has gone up, alongside with the tank's tier, these are the reasons for some changes in the vehicle's weak points.
The glacis plate is still pike-shaped, but it is resistant only to shells of the penetration value of 200mm. The cannons that fire these shells should aim at the weak point known from the IS-3: the lower-front armor plate . Tank equipped with better cannons can easily take on the glacis plate - practically, any direct hit deals damage.
Unfortunately, the IS-8 has lost its side armor, which the IS-3 had. The double armoring is still there, but it only protects the central part of the vehicle - a direct hit above it, as well as below, penetrate the tank's armor without any problems.
The turret is as resistant as in the case of the predecessor - while fighting enemies, whose cannon descent is small, you can try to stand side-to-side with them. Also, hiding behind elevations or the other natural obstacles, also does the job - in this case, you will have to aim at the cupola on the top of the IS-8's turret.
...as the driver of the IS-8?
...against the IS-8?
Name
ST-I
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
122mm M62-T2: penetration 268mm; damage 440
Armoring
Hull: 140mm/140mm/100mm, turret: 250mm/160mm/160mm
Durability
1900 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 700HP
Role
Close combat, medium distance combat
The ST-I is another, right after the KV-4 Soviet tank with a low top speed and very high resistance to enemy fire - this vehicle is the second most resistant, tier nine vehicle, and it is only inferior to the German E-75. Unlike its predecessor, it has been armed with a much better cannon : the 122mm M62-T2 is identical with the one mounted onto the IS-4. This is why the ST-I has a large firepower and good penetration value. This vehicle is best when it fights at a distance below 150 meters but, whenever the need arises, it can respond with fire over longer distance.
The first module that you cannot do without is the BL-9 cannon. The more considerate players, who develop several lines of tanks simultaneously, will already have unlocked it (it can be unlocked while playing on the IS-3) - the remaining ones will again have to struggle with the 122mm D-25T, whose penetration value is, around 175mm. In this case, it is a good idea to spend the spare experience points and buy some subcaliber, to make things easier, just a bit.
The next modules are: suspension, a new turret (not only does it have a 250mm thick armor in front of it, but also increases reload speeds and allows you to descend the cannon by, as many as, 8 degrees) and finally, a new 122mm M62-T2 cannon. The engine should be the last one to develop.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Unlike its predecessor, the ST-I does not have too many weak points. The easiest way to damage this tank is by aiming at the lower-front armor, or by shooting into the driver's visor. The glacis plate is resistant to fire and, only guns of the penetration value of, around 260mm, are capable of penetrating it on a regular basis. If the tank hides behind an elevation, or behind ruins, and only exposes the turret, there is little possibility that you damage it. The only weak point is the cupola, but even in this case, you need a cannon with the penetration value of, around 220mm.
When angled, the ST-I is still a very resistant tank and only the largest-caliber cannons are capable of penetrating its thick side-armor. By shooting to the side, try to aim above, or right below the additional armored skirt covering the tracks. Attacks from behind are immensely effective: 100mm thick of armor is not enough protection against their seven tanks.
The elements inside the vehicle are organized in a standard way: the ammo compartment is at the back of the turret and in the hull, right under it, whereas the engine is at the back of the vehicle.
...as the driver of the ST-I?
...against the ST-I?
Name
IS-4
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
122mm M62-T2: penetration 268mm; damage 440
Armoring
Hull: 140mm/160mm/100mm, turret: 250mm/200mm/170mm
Durability
2500 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 43km/h, engine: 750HP
Role
Close combat, medium distance combat
The IS-4 is an improved version of the ST-I. This tank is better, than its predecessor, in any respect: it is better armored, the reload time and the focus time are shorter, it has higher top speed and a better engine. The playing style remains the same, but removing the flaws of the ST-I will allows you to remain in battle for longer than in the case of the ST-I.
Initially, the IS-4 is armed with the historical 122mm D-25T cannon. You only need to replace it with the previously developed (on the IS-8 or the ST-I) 122mm M62-T2 cannon.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system, spall liner
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The general armoring pattern for the IS-4 is the same as for the ST-I. Unfortunately, there are several important differences between the two. First of all: the thickness of the lower-front armor has increased - it is still the weakest point on the tank, when it comes to the front armor, but this time you will need a cannon, of the penetration value of, above 200mm (220mm or more is preferred) to deal damage on a regular basis. Also the driver's hatch turned much harder and repels shots more often. The glacis plate is very resistant to fire and, just like in the case of the ST-I, only cannons of the penetration value of 260mm, or higher, are capable of penetrating it on a regular basis.
The sides of the tank became more resistant than in the predecessor. The 160mm thick armor, after it is angled, is capable of repelling many shells, which is why, while attacking the IS-4 from the side, you should aim right below the skirt over the tracks, so that you can hit the lower-side part of the hull. With cannons of larger penetration, you can easily aim at the upper side of the hull - most of the shots should deal damage.
The turret is, virtually, indestructible. There are two small points that are very difficult to find, and which can be penetrated with weaker cannons (of around 200mm penetration value): the roof of the turret, right behind the cannon armor, and the cupola. Apart from that, those armed with better cannons can hit the front side of the turret on both sides of the cannon's yoke - this point is much more resistant, but it is the only way to damage the IS-4, in the case in which it glues to you.
...as the driver of the IS-4?
...against the IS-4?
Name
IS-7
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
130mm S-70: penetration 260mm; damage 490
Armoring
Hull: 150mm/150mm/100mm, turret: 240mm/185mm/94mm
Durability
2150 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 1050HP
Role
Close combat
The IS-7 is a continuation of the tradition started with the IS-3 and the IS-8. Again, you will deal here with a quite mobile vehicle which, unlike its predecessors, has been equipped with one of the best armors in the game. The high top speed, combined with the reliable driving unit and a very good cannon, makes this tank one of the most dangerous opponents that you can meet in the World of Tanks - not without a reason, this vehicle has dominated clan games for a long time. Today, because of the high penetration cannons that appeared, this tank has somewhat lost its significance, but you still need to approach this vehicle carefully. It has impressive parameters and is often able to win the entire battle.
IS-7 has elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system, spall liner
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. You can also try selecting skills that improve the tank's handling, like the clutch braking or the off-road driving.
In spite of the armoring, of the thickness of 150mm, the pike-nose, and the angle of the individual fragments, make the IS-7 capable of repelling any shell fired at it. While attacking this tank from the front, you should attack the lower-front armor plate - with good angling (at the right angle, or while the opponent is coming up the hill) you can penetrate it with cannons of the penetration value of 200-220mm. the glacis plate is practically invulnerable to fire from cannons below 260mm of penetration value and the users of these cannons should pick the right targets. While opposite the IS-7, avoid shooting at the nose itself - it is best to aim into the area of the headlights. In the case in which the enemy is inclined at a slight angle, this will be the only weak point in its glacis plate.
The sides of the IS-7 are much weaker than it might seem. It is enough that the opponent is angled at 30 degrees to you and you will be able to penetrate its skirt with a cannon of the penetration value of 220mm, or higher. The most important thing, in this case, is to fire well-aimed shots between the tracks and the skirt.
The turret of the IS-7 is indestructible at its front side. You can try hitting the cupola, or place your shell right next to the cannon armor, but in most cases this will not harm the enemy. Additionally, the turret of the IS-7 is very resistant to shots from the side - in this case, it is better to aim right next to the cupola - this fragment has been situated at a smaller angle and it is easier to penetrate it.
...as the driver of the IS-7?
...against the IS-7?
Name
Object 260
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
122mm BL-13-1: penetration 260mm / 340mm; damage 440; rate of fire: 5,44 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 150mm/150mm/70mm; Turret: 350mm/210mm/100mm
Durability
2100 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 60km/h, engine: 1200HP
Object 260 is the last of four tanks available to unlock during the individual missions in January 2015. It is a Russian tier X heavy tank. It connects great mobility with very good armor and firepower. This tank is very good in all aspects. One can even risk saying that he might dethrone IS-7 on level X battlefields. This tank has very thick turret which is almost impenetrable. Its only weakspot is commander cupola, which is small and hard to hit. Object 260's hull is much thiner, it has only 150mm, but is well angled and it is impossible to penetrate it from the front with a cannon with less than 280mm penetration. It's far easier to penetrate it when you set yourself on right position to remove the angle. In that case Object 260's armor has from 150 to 200mm thickness which makes him penetrable for most of the vehicles. Mobility of this tank is one of his greatest advantages. He has an engine with 1200HP and it has great power/weight ratio. There is around 20KM per ton, which allows Object to quickly accelerate to even 60km/h. He is one of the fastest tier X vehicles in the game. His cannon is slightly less impressive. 122mm BL-13-1 has decent 260mm penetration, but when you face a better armored vehicle then you will be forced to load some premium ammo, that gives you even 340mm penetration. Premium ammunition guarantees that you will pierce through any vehicle in the game. The cannon has quite good accuracy for a Russian one. The only disadvantage is time it needs to focus, it is 2,4 seconds.
Object 260 has a heavy tank armor and a medium tank mobility. Both those characteristics makes him a very comprehensive vehicle. He will be good on the frontline and while trying to flank enemies. In my opinion he should be used mostly to flank enemies. His top speed allows him to quickly get to the right position on the map and the armor allows him to pick up a good fight.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, toolbox, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Object 260 armor is hard to penetrate even though hull plates have only 150mm thickness. Its greatest advantage is the angle of the plates thanks to which the real thickness in the front is around 260-280mm when facing him on equal level surface. Luckily, such situations are rare, the vehicle is usually a bit higher or lower than you. Thanks to that your chances for penetration are higher. When Object rides at you from a cover, even he is sidescrapping one of his front plates is perpendicular to you. You should use it and take a shot, his armor is about 200mm in such circumstances, most of the cannons should deal with it. When your vehicle is placed higher than Object, then you should aim at triangular plate that is located over two main armor plates. In normal situation it is too well angled to penetrate it, but when you're two meters or more above the Object, you should easily penetrate it. The lower plate shouldn't be considered as an obvious weakspot. The armor at this spot has the same thickness as the lower plate and he has similar angle. You should aim at the upper part of the lower plate. You should use situations when Object is higher than you. In that case, you should easily pierce through his lower plate.
Object's turret is his greatest advantage. You won't be able to penetrate it unless you hit the weakspots. The armor is very thick and well angled. Usually the real armor thickness is from 300 to 400mm. You should aim at the commander copola which can be found on the left side. It is small, but in close distance you should be able to hit it. The second weakspot is turrets mantlet. The area without protection is narrow, but if you aim well you will face only 60mm of armor.
During combat you must avoid sides of Object 260. They have a layer armor, which in some places increase his real armor thickness to even 500mm. You should shoot at the area between the middle of wheels and the upper part of the tracks. There you will have only 100mm of steel to penetrate. Another spot you might want to shoot at is a narrow fragment of the armor in the upper part of the hull, positioned with a little angle. The back of the hull and the turret is very thin and you should easily penetrate it.
...as the driver of the Object 260?
At the beginning of the battle use the advantage of your vehicle's speed to take good position.
When you are firing, you should search for a Hull Down position that will allow you to cover your hull and show only the turret. Rethink the way of riding on enemies. Sidescraping won't be always the best solution. Although your side will be impossible to penetrate, the angle of one of your front plates will be reduced and an experienced player will use that opportunity.
Remember that you are a heavy, not a light tank. Despite the impressive speed you have, your task is not to sight enemies, but to lead the assault. Cooperate with other players and don't go alone too far into the battlefield, unless you're certain that the territory you're moving in is clear.
Regular ammo has 260mm penetration and it is not always enough. It is wise to have always few premium bullets that can be used in dangerous situations.
...against Object 260?
While fighting, take advantage of the great angle of Object 260 armor. It can be his weakness as well. Always select the armor plate that has the worst angle towards you.
If you see only the turret of Object 260, it is better to retreat than waste bullets and health points. Even with premium ammunition you won't have much chance to penetrate the turret.
Whenever possible, attack from sides or the back. Don't forget to shoot at front or back wheel of the track. You will immobilize enemy for a short time. That time can be used by you, your teammates or the artillery.
The Chinese tanks can be divided into copies of the vehicles that you already know and completely prototypical; ones, developed t the factories of the Far East. Since this tree of vehicles is completely new, only light, medium and heavy tanks are available at present.
Chinese medium tanks are similar, in their playing style, to the Soviet vehicles. They have quite weak hulls and a turret that is very resistant to fire. Unlike their Soviet counterparts they are armed with cannons of larger caliber. These tanks are very mobile and capable both of breaching enemy lines and quick raids behind enemy lines.
When it comes to heavy tanks, again, they draw extensively on the Soviet technical thought. These tanks are frontline vehicles, which breach the frontline and open the way for the rest of the vehicles.
The final branch, and the most unique for Chinese, at the same time, is the branch of high tier light tanks. Unlike scouting vehicles of the other nations, these tanks have excellent armament and are capable of destroying any opponent that they encounter. If only you can find an isolated target, you can be sure that soon, it will fall victim to you.
Name
IS-2
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VII
Armament
122mm D-25T: penetration 175mm; damage 390
Armoring
Hull: 90mm/90mm/60mm, turret: 100mm/90mm/90mm
Durability
1280 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 37km/h, engine: 580HP
Role
Close combat, Support tank
The IS-2 is the Chinese counterpart of the Soviet IS heavy tank. This vehicle is nearly identical with its prototype. The only differences concern: the arc of cannon descent (the IS-2 is incapable of lowering it as much as the IS), the number of health points, the power of the engine (the IS-2 is slower than the Soviet IS) and the availability of premium shells. The IS-2 received HEAT shells capable of piercing 300mm of armoring!
The development of the IS-2 should start with the development of new cannons: your aim is the 122mm D-25T cannon. Then, you can develop the turret (increases the amount of health points) and new engines. The radio and suspension can be unlocked as the last.
While developing the individual modules of the IS-2, you should pay attention to several relationships:
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The IS-2, just like the Soviet IS, is a vehicle that is very resistant to fire and is capable of withstanding direct hits from the largest-caliber cannons. Unlike its Soviet version, it has a different shape of the glacis plate: instead of resembling the one from the KW series vehicles, it has a uniform plate of high angle, which is more resistant to direct hits than the one on the IS. For that reason, while attacking the IS-2 from the front, with cannons of a lower caliber, you should aim at the lower-front armor plate. The sides and the back of the tank are, as always, vulnerable to fire. The engine and the ammo compartment are in their standard situations.
The turret of the IS-2 is rounded, thanks to which even the strongest cannons will ricochet at the incorrect angle. With cannons of the penetration value higher than 160mm, you can aim directly into the yoke of the cannon - most shells should be able to penetrate it. Apart from that, the copula is very vulnerable to enemy fire. The sides and the back of the turret are an easy target for larger-caliber cannons.
...as the driver of the IS-2?
...against the IS-2?
Name
110
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
100mm 62-100T: penetration 215mm; damage 320
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/90mm/60mm, turret: 201mm/148mm/50mm
Durability
1450 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 580HP
Role
Medium distance combat, Support tank, close combat
The 110 is a vehicle that combines the characteristic features of the IS-2 and the Soviet IS-3 heavy tanks. It also has the "pike-nose" which, due to its inclination, is capable of reflecting the majority of the enemy shots. Apart from that it has a high top speed and a turret resistant to damage. Unlike the IS series tanks, it is armed with a cannon of a smaller caliber: the fast-firing 100mm 62-100T.
From the very beginning, your tank should be using the modules developed for the IS-2: the 122mm D-25T cannon and the 12150LS driving unit. In the first place, you will have to develop new suspension, then the turret and the 100mm 62-100T cannon.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The glacis plate, i.e. the pike-nose, is virtually invulnerable to fire from cannons of the penetration value ranging 200-220mm; the better cannons are capable of penetrating it but, in spite of that, I recommend against firing at this fragment of the 110 tank. A much better points is the lower (triangular) plate - you can damage it using cannons of 175mm penetration value. In the case, in which the opponent is angled, you can aim at the sides of the nose - without the protection ensured by the natural, big angle of attack, you can penetrate it without major problems.
Unlike in the Soviet IS-3 the sides of the 110 are very vulnerable to fire, because it does not have the double armor layer. Taking shells to the tracks is still possible, but it has been limited to the lowest caliber cannons- shells fired from cannons of the penetration value of 260mm can damage you without major problems.
The turret of the 110 is nearly identical with the one on the Soviet IS-8 heavy tank. It is rounded and it has 201mm of armor at the front, thanks to which it is capable of repelling the majority of shells aimed at it. Only the cannons of tier ten vehicles, which use premium shells, are capable of piercing it. In the case in which you use cannons of penetration values (around 220mm) you can aim at the point marked in the picture, but you need to keep in mind that it may ricochet.
Just like in the Soviet tanks, the ammo compartment is at the back of the turret and directly under it, in the hull. It is worth noting here that the 110, just like the IS-3, has the tendency to explode after one direct hit. The engine is at the back of the vehicle.
...as the driver of the 110?
...against the 110?
Name
WZ-111 model 1-4
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
IX
Armament
130mm 59-130T: penetration 244mm; damage 490
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/80mm/60mm, turret: 230mm/120mm/60mm
Durability
1850 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Support tank, close combat
The WZ-111 model 1-4 is the next, after the 110 Chinese heavy tank. This vehicle resembles the Soviet IS-8 heavy tank and it should be used in a similar way. Tanks to arming this tank with the 130mm 59-130T cannon, it is better to pull off the "hit and flee" maneuvers and for fight in the urban environment, where damage that you deal is more important than the high rate of fire.
Right at the outset, you should mount the 100mm 62-100T cannon, and the 12150LS engine. Then, unlock: suspension, turret and the 130mm 59-130T cannon.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved guidance system
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved ventilation
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can select the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
The armoring pattern of the WZ-111 model 1-4 is similar to the one on the Soviet IS-7 heavy tank. The pike nose is resistant to fire from cannons of 200mm penetration value but, its sides are much weaker and more vulnerable to direct hits. The lower-front armor plate, just like in the tanks of the IS series, is the weakest element of the front armor. The sides of the vehicle are protected with layer armoring but, it covers only a small area on the vehicle. This is why, hitting the hull should not be too difficult.
The front of the turret of the WZ-111 model 1-is just as resistant as in the IS series tanks, and thanks to its shape, it often repels shells. It is worth noting that the improved turret ( i.e. the vehicle with 1850 health points) has weak sides and back. Its basic version is protected with 220mm of steel, at each side.
The ammo compartment and the engine are in their standard places: at the back of the turret and directly under it, and at the back of the vehicle respectively).
...as the driver of the WZ-111 model 1-4?
...against the WZ-111 model 1-4?
Name
113
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
X
Armament
122mm 60-122T: penetration 257mm; damage 440
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/90mm/70mm, turret: 240mm/160mm/80mm
Durability
2300 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 750HP
Role
Support tank, medium distance combat
The 113 is the last Chinese heavy tank available in the game. What is interesting, this vehicle, in its construction and playing style, resembles a medium tank, rather than a sluggish steel giant. It is poorly armored and its only protection is the resistant turret, the glacis plate, which is inclined at a considerable angle and its high top speed. It is armed with the 122mm 60-122T cannon, which is, unfortunately, one of the weakest weapons available at tier ten. In spite of its unique features, the 113 is not too good a vehicle: it is difficult to handle and it does not provide sufficient results- in this case, it is better to invest in the actual medium tank: the Chinese 121.
The 113 has the elite status from the very beginning.
Preferred equipment: shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation.
Optional equipment: toolbox, improved guidance system, spall liner
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew. Alternatively, you can select the snap shot (the gunner) and smooth ride (the driver).
The pattern of the front armoring is surprisingly simple: the glacis plate is inclined at an angle of 68 degrees, which is why most of the shells fired at it will ricochet. If the 113 is slightly angled, this part of the armoring is, virtually, indestructible. Fortunately enough, the more you approach the tank, and the more you lower the cannon, the easier it gets to penetrate this part. The lower-front armor plate is very weak, possible to damage even for tier six tanks. That is why it is the best target during a frontal attack.
The turret is just as resistant as in the predecessors - the front is nearly impenetrable, the sides occasionally ricochet and the rear, nearly always, takes damage.
The ammo compartment and the engine are in their standard places: at the back of the turret and directly under it, and at the back of the vehicle respectively).
...as the driver of the 113?
...against the 113?
Name
Type T-34
Type
Medium tank
Tier
V
Armament
57mm 55-57FG: penetration 112mm; damage 85
Armor
Hull: 45mm/45mm/40mm, turret: 52mm/52mm/45mm
Durability
450 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 500HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank, close combat
Type T-34 is a Chinese copy of the Soviet T-34. This tank is identical, in nearly every respect, with its original - the only important difference is the worse possibility to lower the cannon, in the Eastern tank. This vehicle is universal and it can fight both at short range, by circling around the enemy and by attacking at long range, thanks to the accurate 57mm 55-57FG cannon. This tank is very fast and it reaches the top speed quickly. Its armor and the average number of health points, is enough to fight vehicles of the same tier. Just like the Soviet T-34, Typ-34 is capable of influencing the outcomes of battles and lead its squad to victory itself.
The path of development of the Type T-34 is not too complicated. You start by improving on the suspension, to unlock a new turret and the 57mm 55-57FG canon afterwards. Now you can unlock the missing engine and the radio.
You should notice the following relations:
Since the new engine does not have any considerable influence on the Type T34's performance, you can easily use the above facilitations.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armor of the Type T-34 only makes it possible to repel some of the shells fired by the tier three and four vehicles - while in combat with equal enemies, it does not ensure appropriate protection. The glacis plate and the side armor can be easily penetrated by cannons of the penetration value of 80mm. The turret is only minimally more durable than the rest of the tank - the fifth tier cannons will have no problems piercing it, without taking into consideration the fatal direct hits into the spots, where there is the turret's front armor under the cannon armor.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull.
...As the driver of the Type T-34?
...against the Type T-34?
Name
Type 58
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VI
Armament
85mm 56-85JT: penetration 128mm; damage 160
Armor
Hull: 45mm/45mm/40mm, turret: 90mm/75mm/52mm
Durability
750 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 55km/h, engine: 520HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
Just like the Type 34 is a copy of the Soviet T-34, the Type 58 is a Chinese counterpart of the T-34-85. Unlike its Soviet original, it has a bit weaker 85mm 56-85JT cannon of higher rate of fire and longer focus times. Additionally, the vehicle itself has a higher number of health points than the T-34-85. The reliable armoring of the turret combined with a relatively effective cannon, allows you to fight, as equals, with enemies of the same tier. Against the stronger vehicles, it is going to be necessary to take advantage of your good mobility and attack the exposed sides , or the rear of the machine.
Just like its older brother, the Type T-34, also the Type 58 has a small number of modifications to develop. New suspension, the turret and the 85mm 56-85JT cannon are the most important. Now you can unlock the remaining modules.
Again, there are several relations here, which will allow you to save up experience points:
Since the difference between the V-2-34 engine, and the best one- 12150L - is negligible, I recommend that you take advantage of the above facilitations and give up developing the driving unit for the Type 58.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armor on the Type 58 is nearly identical with the one on the Type T-34 and it does not provide any protection against the vehicles of tier V and higher: 80mm penetration value is enough to pierce through your front or a side. The turret has been slightly improved and its front part is now protected by 90mm steel plate. Shells fired at it will ricochet sometimes but, in most cases you will be able to damage the vehicle.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull.
...As the driver of the Type 58?
...against the Type 58?
Name
T-34-1
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VII
Armament
100mm 44-100JT: penetration 175mm; damage 250
Armor
Hull: 60mm/45mm/40mm, turret: 170mm/120mm/60mm
Durability
1050 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 520HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
The T-34-1 is the first, entirely Chinese construction, which draws extensively on the solutions implemented in the Soviet vehicles of the T-34 series. Unlike its Soviet counterparts, its turret, which now has a semi-spherical shape, is better armored and uses the 100mm cannon, thanks to which it can easily conduct fire from behind low walls an attack frontally some of the vehicles of the IS series, or the German Tigers. While in combat with vehicles of higher tiers, thanks to its mobility, it can flank the enemy and lay fire down on its weak points. In general terms, it is an excellent vehicle, which can serve as a training ground before you change to Chinese medium tanks of higher tiers.
The development of the T-34-1 should be started with developing a new suspension and then, the turret. Now, you will be able to mount the your vehicle with the 100mm 44-100JT cannon. The only thing left to do, then, is develop the missing engines and the radio to make the tank reach the elite rank.
Just like in the case of the other Chinese tanks, there are several relations here:
As you can see, while developing the T-34-1, you can save a lot of time, if only you unlock the successive heavy tanks. I recommend that you use the option of "automatic" development of new engines because, even without them, your vehicle is sufficiently mobile.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, improved guidance system, improved ventilation
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armor of the T-34-1's hull is, as if, it was made of paper - practically any direct hit will penetrate it. It is only cannons of the lower tiers that will, sporadically, ricochet.
The improved turret of the T-34-1 is its advantage. The 170mm of armor, in combination with the spherical shape, can easily repel any shell fired by the vehicles of tiers V, VI and VII. The larger cannons, most usually, will penetrate the glacis plate but still, an ill-aimed shell will often slide down without dealing damage to you.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull. These modules have low number of health points: the T-34-1 will sporadically burst in fire or explode.
...As the driver of the T-34-1?
...against the T-34-1?
Name
T-34-2
Type
Medium tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
100mm 59-100T: penetration 181mm; damage 250
Armor
Hull: 70mm/45mm/45mm, turret: 180mm/120mm/60mm
Durability
1300 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 580HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
After the excellent T-34-1, there comes a disappointment. The T-34-2 is only a slight improvement of its predecessor: it has a bit better cannon and a more durable turret but, the hull's armor leaves much to wish for. This tank, just like the Soviet T-44, can use the cal. 122mm cannon but, this is not the best choice to make - this cannon has very low rate of fire and long focus times. This is why, each shell you fire is worth its weight in gold. Due to the thicker armor of the tier VIII vehicles, the driver of the T-34-2 will have to attack all enemies from the back or from behind. Only the few users of the 122mm cannon, who use premium shells, will be capable of penetrating the glacis plate of the heavy tanks that they encounter. The 122mm cannon has one major flaw: very low vertical operation angle. Due to that, this tank performs better while fighting in cities and on flat surfaces.
You should purchase the T-34-2 only after you have obtained all of the modules on the IS-2 heavy tank. The first step should be to mount the 12150LS engine. Then, you need to unlock new suspension and the turret. Only now, will you be able to mount a more effective 85mm 59-100T cannon, or the 122mm 37-122JT that you know from the IS-2.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved guidance system (cal. 122mm cannon), improved ventilation (cal. 85mm cannon)
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring of the hull, of the T-34-2, is not much different from the one on the T-34-1. The glacis plate is thicker now but, in spite of that, it is still too little against enemy fire.
The turret received additional 10mm to its armor (now, it is 180mm thick) which, in combination with its shape, allows for repelling most of the shells fired by tanks of the seventh and the eighth tiers. This protection is, however, insufficient against tanks of higher tiers.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull. Just like in the T-34-1, T-34-2 it bursts in fire quite often.
...As the driver of the T-34-2?
...against the T-34-2?
Name
WZ-120
Type
Medium tank
Tier
IX
Armament
122mm 60-122T: penetration 249mm; damage 440
Armor
Hull: 100mm/80mm/45mm, turret: 220mm/160mm/65mm
Durability
1650 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 600HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
Just like in the case of the majority of Chinese tanks, the WZ-120 is a copy of the Soviet T-54. From the shape of the hull and the turret, to the driving statistics, this vehicle is deceptively similar to its Soviet counterpart. However, this is where similarities end. The Chinese tank has one feature that is missing in medium tanks of the remaining nations: a modern cal. 122mm 60-122T cannon. Not only does this cannon deal damage of 440 points, but also has an excellent armor penetration value. Unfortunately, just like in the case of the T-34-2, the angle of its vertical operation is low, which will often make you search for an appropriate position to shoot. The tank is a perfect "niner" that is capable of fighting with vehicles of the other nations on equal terms. It may be an interesting bit of information, for some, that the WZ-120 and the Type59 were, in fact, the same vehicles.
The development of the WZ-120 is long and burdensome, and it requires a lot of experience points. Before you take to this tank, I recommend that you develop all modules for: WZ-132, 110 and unlock a tank of the tenth tier: 112.
Your first step should be mounting the best equipment currently available for you, onto the new tank. Then, you need to unlock new suspension and turret, as quickly as possible, to be able to mount better armament. Some of the equipment makes it over to the WZ-120 from the other vehicles:
After you have installed new suspension, turret and armament., you can develop the last engine, and start gathering experience points to unlock the 121 medium tank.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved guidance system
Optional equipment: toolbox, camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Unlike in its predecessors, the hull in the WZ-120 is quite well armored, which ensures some extent of protection from tier VII vehicles and, after it is angled, it will often be capable of repelling the shells fired from tier VIII tanks. Unfortunately, the sides are very vulnerable to damage, due to which, angling the vehicle, at too wide an angle, allows the enemy to deal damage to you.
The turret of the WZ-120 is very resistant to fire and only cannons of the penetration value of 250mm, or higher, will be able to penetrate it on a regular basis but, even in this case, if improperly aimed, the shell will ricochet anyways. You need to watch out for the cannons of tier X tanks, and especially, for tank destroyers, because they will be easily capable of dealing damage to you.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull.
...As the driver of the WZ-120?
...against the WZ-120?
Name
121
Type
Medium tank
Tier
X
Armament
122mm 60-122TG: penetration 258mm; damage 440
Armor
Hull: 120mm/80mm/60mm, turret: 240mm/130mm/60mm
Durability
1950 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 56km/h, engine: 580HP
Role
Medium range combat, support tank
This tank is a developed version of the WZ-120. In comparison with its predecessor, this tank has thicker armor of the hull and of the turret, higher number of health points and an even more effective cannon: 122mm 60-122TG of the increased penetration value and high rate of fire. The combination of good mobility, low-profiled shape, excellent camouflage and immense firepower, makes the 121 one of the most dangerous enemies in the battlefield. Fortunately, the limited cannon vertical operation angle, considerably limits the tank's effectiveness in hilly and mountainous areas.
From the very beginning, the 121 has the elite status.
Preferred equipment: Shell rammer, vertical stabilizer, improved ventilation or improved guidance system (depending on your preferences)
Optional equipment: camouflage net, binocular telescope
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
The armoring pattern of the 121 is identical with the one in the WZ-120. The glacis plate has been thickened a bit thanks to which, after it is slightly angled, it will be able to ensure you with some protection against cannons, of the penetration value of 220mm. The sides and the rear are, still, very weak and any tank that you encounter will be capable of damaging them.
The turret of the 121 is excellently armored and, thanks to its semi-spherical shape, most shells will not deal damage to you. Only the well-aimed shots fired, from tier X cannons, will be capable of penetrating it.
The ammo compartment is located at the back of the turret and directly under it; the engine, which is a standard, at the back of the hull.
...As the driver of the 121?
...against the 121?
Name
WZ-111
Type
Heavy tank
Tier
VIII
Armament
122mm D-25TA: penetration 175mm/250mm; damage 390; rate of fire: 5 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 120mm/80mm/60mm; Turret: 230mm/120mm/60mm
Durability
1550 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 50km/h, engine: 520HP
WZ-111 is a Chinese tier VIII heavy tank. This vehicle is available for completing a pretty hard mission from the end of 2014 and beginning of 2015. Not many players will probably be able to get him, but it is a good idea to read about him to know how to fight against him. It can be said that WZ-111 is a younger brother of WZ-111 1-4 or an rival of WZ-112. He has a very good armor, especially on the turret, medium tank level of mobility and quite decent cannon. The armor is profiled to look like the nose of a pike fish, thanks to what even a thin iron plate gives quite decent real armor thickness. The weakest part of this tank is his cannon. It gives nice damage for VIII level, but has small penetration, isn't accurate and the aiming time is very long. All that combines makes it a perfect vehicle for close combat, especially in a city.
Preferred equipment: improved guidance system, toolbox, improved ventilation
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
When facing WZ-111 you should avoid shooting at this vehicle turret, it is impenetrable for most vehicles. The best on the turret to aim are two hatches on its top. They are quite large, but their thickness is over 150mm. The hull is a better option to aim, especially its lower plate. Real armor thickness down there is around 120mm. The upper plate is slightly thicker and better angled, when shooting at it you must have a cannon with at least 200mm penetration. You must take caution when you're shooting at the sides of the vehicle. In the middle of the hull there is an additional plate that increases the real thickness of the armor to 300mm. You should the area over the tracks. The back of the turret and hull is easy to get through and shouldn't give you any trouble.
...as the driver of the WZ-111?
Use the terrain cover to your advantage. Trees, bushes, ruins - all of them increases your chances for survival.
When facing enemies from lower tier you must only remember to secure your lower plate, When you face enemies from tier higher than yours, even the upper plate won't give you enough protection. Tier IX and X cannons usually have more than 200mm penetration.
Take advantage of your impressive top speed to quickly move your vehicle. Don't ride to enemy position without the proper backup from your team.
This tank has very limited rotation of his cannon and shouldn't be used on uneven grounds.
...against WZ-111?
Avoid shooting at WZ-111's turret, the best place to penetrate is the lower plate and his sides. Detracking the vehicle is a good idea as well. When you immobilize this tank, shooting its weakspots will become easier.
Avoid open territories, try to always ride to city/village/pile of rocks. You have a very inaccurate cannon which isn't too good for greater distance
If you fight against lower tier vehicles, you can ride at them. It is highly unlikely that any tier VII or VIII cannon will penetrate you.
Name
StuG III Ausf. B
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
IV
Armament
10,5 cm Stu.H. 42 L/28: penetration 64mm; damage 350
Armoring
Hull: 50mm/30mm/30mm
Durability
260 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 40km/h, engine: 320HP
Stug IIIB is a German tier IV tank destroyer. His main opponent is a great vehicle Hetzer. Sadly, he is worse than Hetzer in almost everything. He has the same cannon, but with lower accuracy and reload time. He has less hit points and weaker armor as well. The only thing in which he is better is mobility. The vehicle can very quickly accelerate to 40 km/h. Even though the armor in StuG IIIB is weaker than the one in Hetzer, it is still quite nice for a level IV vehicle. It is a perfect tank for combat in city since he can move fast, assault enemies from side or back and then quickly retreat.
Priority for a StuG IIIB is to develop and mount great 10,5cm cannon.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
StuG IIIB armor is not hard to get through, at least when faced in front. You should shoot the lower plate that is 50mm thick. Avoid shooting near the turret, the armor is very thick and well angled there. The actual thickness of the armor in that place can be from 100 to 200mm.
...as the driver of the Stug IIIB?
You use the terrain to hide your tank. Trees, bushes, ruins - they all increase the chances of your survival.
Attack your enemies from the lowest distance possible. Your cannon isn't very accurate. First you should target tier III and IV vehicles with weaker armor. You have great chance to destroy them with one shot.
After every shot hide behind something. Reload takes about 10 seconds during which you are helpless.
Try to aim sides or back of enemy vehicle, if it isn't possible aim wingspots on front of the armor. Since your cannon has low penetration you are forced to search for less armored parts of enemy vehicle.
...against Stug IIIB?
Avoid shooting to an enemy that is stationed in big angle, thanks to that practically every shot should penetrate enemy armor.
If you play with a light or medium tank don't try a frontal assault with hope that you will be able to outmaneuver StuG IIIB. With his mobility and quick reload time you won't have a chance for that.
Avoid shooting the turret or its surroundings, you won't have any chances of penetrating that place.
You should fight with StuG IIIB from the greatest distance possible.
Try to destroy enemy track, then you will have a chance to move closer to StuG and outmaneuver him.
Name
StuG IV
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
V
Armament
7,5cm Stu.K. 40 L/48: penetration 110mm / 158mm; damage 110; rate of fire: 16,91 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 80mm/30mm/20mm
Durability
360 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 38km/h, engine: 300KM
StuG IV is a German tier V tank destroyer. You can get him in one of the individual missions that starts in January 2015. It is the first vehicle that can be gained so the requirements won't be too difficult. It is an upgraded version of StuG IIIG, although upgrade is not the correct word in this case. It is a vehicle with much worse firepower. Cannon penetration is only at 110mm and the damage is 110. Only the rate of fire and time of aiming have been upgraded. Additionally, this vehicle isn't very mobile. Although the top speed is 38 km/h, it has a weak, 300HP engine. The armor isn't too good as well, in the thickest part it has only 80mm and isn't angled. One good thing are the additional iron plates on the sides of the vehicle. They aren't very thick, but they protect you from high-explosive ammo and artillery fire.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
StuG IV has a weak armor. The best place to shoot it is the middle plate that isn't angled well. The bullets should easily penetrate other parts of the armor as well, especially the plates on the left and right of the turret. You should avoid shooting at the mantlet of the cannon, it isn't very thick but well angled and bullets might easily bounce off of it. The sides and the back of the vehicle are very thin, only a 30mm plate protects them. You should take caution when shooting with a high-explosive ammunition. A shot to the side plate will make the bullet explode, and the shockwave will have a long road ahead before it will reach the hull of the vehicle.
...as the driver of the StuG IV?
Use the terrain cover for your advantage. Trees, bushes, ruins - all of them increase your chances for survival.
Keep a safe distance from the center of the fights. Your cannon doesn't deal lots of damage, but it is quite accurate and have a decent rate of fire.
Remember that you have only 360 health points. Some of enemy vehicles might be able to take you down with one shot. If you see that someone is aiming at you it is better to retreat than fight him.
...against StuG IV
Avoid shooting at the turrets mantlet, any other part of the StuG IV will be easier to penetrate.
Avoid using the high-explosive ammunition, unless enemy is positioned with his side or back towards you.
Watch out for enemy cannon that has nice rate of fire. If he detrack you, you're chances for winning will be low.
Name
Archer
Typ
Tank destroyer
Tier
V
Armament
OQF 17-pdr AT Gun Mk. VII: penetration 171mm / 239mm; damage 150; rate of fire: 12,77 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 20mm/20mm/20mm
Durability
360 health points
Mobility
Top speed: forward 12km/h, backward 32km/h, engine: 192HP
Archer is the first in the new line of British tank destroyers. It is probably the most interesting of tanks added in the latest patch. He's greatest advantage is the cannon, the same as the one found in Sherman Firefly and few other British vehicles. It is worth mentioning that it is a tier V vehicle, where 171mm penetration with a standard ammo is enough to pierce through practically everything. Most of the battles you will probably play on level VI or VII, but if it throws you on the top, then you can start hunting season. Even on higher levels the cannon should be sufficient. Other advantages of this cannon are rate of fire, accuracy and horizontal inclination. Biggest disadvantages of Archer are his armor and hit points, or should I rather say, the lack of both. The front armor is well angled but it has only 20mm, so even tier II or III vehicles will be able to penetrate it. The amount of hit points is 360. If you will be thrown against a tier VII tank, most of them will be able to kill you with one shot. The key to good results is avoiding the center of the fights and depend on other tanks intel. It is worth to mention about the mobility of this tank. Driving the Archer is quite specific. His cannon is mounted backward to the driving direction, so, to avoid the necessity of inverted aiming, Wargaming decided to replace the forward driving speed with the backward one. Thanks to that, you can drive forward with the max speed of 12 km/h, and backward with the speed of 32 km/h. This can be useful in some situations like quick retreat, but it takes time to get used to driving backwards.
Suspension should take priority in development, as it allows you to mount the best cannon.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, improved guidance system, camouflage net
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Armor of the Archer is very thin. In the thickest place it has only 20mm, so even when well angled it cannot stop enemy bullets. You can shoot in any part you want, the vehicle's turret doesn't even have a mantlet. The only place that you should avoid shooting at are the tracks, but only if you shoot from the front.
...as the driver of the Archer?
Keep as far away from the fighting zone as possible.
Hide behind any cover that you can find, especially behind bushes and rocks. You must avoid being detected by any means possible.
Mount a camouflage net on your vehicle. Binocular telescope is advices as well as it improves your seeing radius.
Don't ride on open fields. Even if you simply want to get to same point, select the longer, but safer road.
Try to aim for enemy tracks. First, you will avoid them getting close to you and detecting you. Second, the rate of fire of your cannon will give you an opportunity to quickly eliminate detracked vehicle.
Remember about the unusual steering. It is best to ride backwards as you get greater speed that way.
...against Archer?
Don't worry too much about aiming, every shot will penetrate through Archer armor.
Load an high explosive bullet, it will easily take care of Archer's armor and you will deal greater damage and hurt the crew.
If you know that Archer hides in a specific place, try to ride as close to him as possible so he won't be able to fully use his accurate cannon.
Heavy tanks should be especially cautious of this vehicle as they have a small range of view. If a heavy tank is being shoot at by Archer, he should hide behind a cover and ask for help from a medium or light tank. They should easily outmaneuver Archer.
Remember, that when Archer moves quickly, he virtually can't aim and he is a perfect target.
Name
Achilles
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
VI
Armament
OQF 17-pdr AT Gun Mk. VII: penetration 171mm / 239mm; damage 150; rate of fire: 13,04 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 38mm/19mm/19mm; Turret: 57mm/25mm/25mm
Durability
640 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 48km/h, engine: 500HP
Achilles is a tier VI British tank destroyer. Its appearance and specifications are similar to the American tank destroyer Wolverine. It's a successor to the Archer destroyer, although almost everything except the cannon differs them. The cannon is the same great one that can be found in Archer, Sherman Firefly or the heavy tank Churchill VII. OQF 17-pdr AT Gun Mk. VII cannon connects great accuracy, good enough penetration and very good accuracy for a tier VI tank destroyer. Although during combat you might encounter even tier VIII tanks, where 171mm penetration might not be enough and you will have to load some premium ammo. Another advantage of Achilles is its mobility, the proportion between power to weight is around 18HP/t and top speed is 48 km/h. Thanks to that, you can quickly speed up to max and quickly get yourself to a perfect location on the battlefield. Achilles has a rotating tower mounted, so you can use binocular telescope and camouflage net with ease. Weaknesses of its predecessor, such as armor and amount of hit points, have been fixed. However, the armor still doesn't give enough protection. The hull is very easy to penetrate. The turret is slightly better, it has 60mm thickness, is small and well angled. The vehicle doesn't allow you to fully use the benefits of such tower as the cannon depression is low.
Achilles is a very versatile tank destroyer, he can be use as a sniper standing far from the battlefield, and as a support tank thank can go side by side with medium tanks. In both cases you must keep in mind the weaknesses of its armor and low cannon depression.
When you buy this vehicle you should already have developed the best possible cannon - OQF 17-pds AT Gun Mk. VII. Your only task should be to mount it as fast as possible. Then you can focus on developing further modules and next vehicle - the Challenger.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Achilles has a thin armor for a level VI vehicle - only 38mm. It makes the front hull plate very easy to penetrate. Ricochets happen only on very big angle. Only place you should avoid aiming at is the lower part of the front plate. It is not thicker than the rest of the plate, but it is better angled and bullets might ricochet from it.
The turret defenses are better. The armor itself is only 25mm, but sides of the turret are well angled. The turret's mantlet is pretty big as well, but its armor is uneven. Its thickness vary from 50mm to even 150mm. Usually getting through depends simply on luck. You should avoid the back of the turret. Achilles has a layer armor there, its thickness is 51mm and it is very well angled. You should avoid shooting at the protruding, back part of the turret.
...as the driver of the Achilles?
Use the speed of your vehicle to get the right position on the battlefield. Try to look for places where only the turret of your tank will be visible.
Avoid getting attention. Stay on the second line or even on the back of the assault. Remember, your advantage is your cannon, not the armor.
Mount telescope or the camouflage net in your vehicle, thanks to the rotating turret you will be able to fully use the benefits that they give you.
...against Achilles?
Try shooting the hull of the vehicle, it guarantees penetration.
Use the fact that Achilles has open turret. Load the high explosive ammunition and try to hit as close the upper part of the turret as possible. It guarantees dealing damage and hurting the crew members.
The best way to fight Achilles is moving from the cover, shooting, hiding back. This tactic is especially useful when you're driving a heavy tank and reloading takes about 10 seconds.
Name
Challenger
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
VII
Armament
OQF 17-pdr AT Gun Mk. VII: penetration 171mm / 239mm; damage 150; rate of fire: 13,33 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 88mm/50mm/38mm; Turret: 50mm/40mm/200mm
Durability
900 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 52km/h, engine: 650HP
Challenger is the first in the line of new, British tank destroyers based on the suspension of medium tanks. This vehicle connects traits of a medium tanks with features typical for a tank destroyer. In this case the characteristics of a medium tank are dominant. Once again you will be given the OQF 17-pdr AT Gun Mk. VII cannon, which was good on V and VI tier, but in a level VII destroyer might force you to aim more precisely and outmaneuver your enemy. The rate of fire hasn't changed, but accuracy and focus of the viewfinder have been upgraded. Thanks to this just a moment after stopping the vehicle you're ready to give a precise shot. The tank has a rotating turret which makes him even more similar to medium tank. But it is worth remembering that the rotation is slow and in many cases you should help it by moving the hull as well. The vehicle has a great 650HP engine while its weight is pretty small. Top speed has been set at 52 km/h. All of that combined and Challenger becomes probably the fastest tank destroyer of its tier. The biggest disadvantage of Challenger is its armor, and more specifically, lack of one. Front armor has theoretically 88mm thickness, but it is combined if simple, iron plates that won't stop even medium VI tier tanks. Your enemies will be mostly of tier VIII and even IX.
Tactics while playing this vehicle should be different than with other tank destroyers. You should play him like a medium or even light assault tank. Of course, it is possible to shoot from greater distance, but low camouflage makes you an easy target to be spotted by enemies. The best strategy is to keep on the second line of the assault and use mobility to avoid enemy fire.
In the Challenger case you have the best cannon developed since the beginning. Your task is to upgrade suspension and the engine as quickly as possible. You should remember about developing the best radiostation as well - the WS No. 22. Her reach is 700. Such great distance allows you to know what is the situation even on the other side of the map.
Preferred equipment: improved ventilation, coated optics, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, repair for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Armor of the Challenger is not one of its advantages. It has two places you shouldn't shoot at nevertheless. The first one is the turrets mantlet. If you're unlucky you might hit a point where the armor is 170mm thick. The second, not obvious spot you should avoid, is the back of the turret. Usually armor at that spot is symbolical and it is easy to penetrate it. In case of Challenger, it is different. The back plate of the turret has 200 thickness and it can withstand even a bullet shot by a tier IX vehicle. The rest of the Challenger is far worse. The maximum thickness of the armor is 88mm without any angle. Unless you are shooting under large angle, you should easily penetrate it. The turret doesn't even have a mantlet, so you can shoot it in whatever point you want and you will get through anyway.
...as the driver of the Challenger?
During combat you can choose one of the two tactics. The first is to rush forward along with light and medium tanks and try to attack enemy tanks from sides or the back . The second is to play like a typical tank destroyer. In that case, hide in the bushes, activate the camouflage net and use the reach of the radiostation.
Try aiming the weak spots on enemy armor. Your cannon is accurate enough to pierce even IX tier vehicles if you know where to shoot.
If you have chosen the medium tank tactic, stay on the move the whole time, hide behind cover, ride out, give one or two shots and then change your position on the map.
Avoid direct confrontation with other vehicles. You have to little health points and too thin armor to win such battle.
...against Challenger?
When you face Challenger you can use high-explosive ammunition. Such bullet should easily pierce through enemy turret and additionally damage the modules and hurt the crew.
When you are being assaulted from greater distance, keep moving. Challenger has very accurate gun, but with average penetration. If you move even a little, it will be harder for him to hit your weakspots.
When you're driving a medium or light tank, don't try to outmaneuver your enemy. With his mobility and rotating turret, you won't have great chances for success. Such tactic is good only of enemy is detracked and you can use the low speed of rotation of Challenger's turret.
Don't shoot the back of Challenger's turret. The armor at that spot has 200mm thickness. You can shoot any other place instead.
Name
Charioteer
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
VIII
Armament
105 mm AT Gun L7: penetration 268mm; damage 390; rate of fire: 5,94 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 63mm/46mm/38mm; Turret: 30mm/25mm/30mm
Durability
1050 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 52km/h, engine: 600KM
Charioteer is a British tank destroyer, Challenger's successor. It has many of its predecessor attributes and a much better cannon. This vehicle can be treated like a medium tank. He has a X level cannon - 105 mm AT Gun L7. For a tier VIII vehicle, his cannon's attributes are amazing. Bullets fired from it have 268mm penetration and they deal 390 damage. This cannon has rate of fire typical for a tier X medium tanks and is very accurate. It has some weaknesses as well. The biggest is the fact that you will be thrown against tier IX and X enemies. Situations when you're on the top will be very rare. Another advantage of Charioteer is his mobility. It's even better than in Challenger. Top speed hasn't changed and it is still 52 km/h, but the power/weight ratio has improved. Thanks to that, the tank has better acceleration and you will be able to get to a selected map point even quicker. Similar to the rest of new British tank destroyers line, the armor in Charioteer is just symbolical. It's even worse than in his predecessor. Armor thickness is never greater than 100mm, no matter what angle did you shot him. Due to this, one doesn't need to aim to accurate, as any hit will penetrate Chariotter's armor.
With this vehicle it is recommended to play as with a classical tank destroyer. The speed of this tank should be used to get to the right position and for retreat to another one if necessary. You should get some camouflage net and binocular telescope as well. Of course, you can play this tank like a medium one, but in battles on level IX and X you will meet experienced players and speed alone won't be enough to survive on the battlefield. The lack of armor makes you a target than can be killed with one shot, even although you have 1050 health points.
You should already have most of the equipment developed. All that is left is to focus on developing two cannons. First one is QQF 20-pdr AT Gun Type B Barrel, although in case of this vehicle it is just a temporary option, even though it has quite nice specifications. The best cannon is 105 mm AT Gun L7, which will make fighting even the tier 10 vehicles pretty comfortable.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, large-caliber tank gun rammer, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
There is not much to say about Charioteer's armor. The armor is so thin that you should behave as if there was no armor at all. It can be shot anywhere, on any angle. High-explosive ammunition will be very effective against Charioteer.
...as the driver of the Charioteer?
Use terrain covers to hide your tank. Bushes, trees, ruins - all of them increase your chances for survival.
Mounting a camouflage net is necessary. You can't allow to be found by enemy. Your vehicle has a little camouflage factor, so a net will be very useful.
Tank commander must have the Sixth sense ability. Without it playing is almost impossible. You must know when you have been discovered by enemy. Enemy artillery is worst for you, in 99% cases it can one-shot you.
Change your position on the battlefield as often as it is possible. If you are discovered, position change is necessary. Your spot should be in a safe distance from the center of the fights as well.
...against Charioteer?
If you have a cannon with good rate of fire, try to detrack Charioteer. By doing so, you will remove the only Charioteer's defense - his speed. When the vehicle is immobilized, it becomes a perfect target and can be killed in a matter of few seconds.
Load some high-explosive ammunition. With the thickness of Charioteer's armor penetration is guaranteed, and the damage done by those bullets will be greater.
Don't try frontal assault. Although it is a tier VIII vehicle, it has a level X cannon with good penetration that is enough to pierce through any vehicle in the game.
Name
FV4004 Conway
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
IX
Armament
120 mm AT Gun L1A1: penetration 259mm / 326mm; damage 400; rate of fire: 7,69 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 76mm/50mm/38mm; Turret: 132mm/95mm/36mm
Durability
1500 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 650HP
Conway is the penultimate of the new line of British tank destroyers. This vehicle has very huge turret, that looks more like a fridge than a turret of a tank. Luckily, this fridge has great firepower. You can mount a 120 mm AT Gun L1A1, to which the standard ammunition has nice 259mm penetration, and if you load it with premium bullet you can shoot even at vehicles like Maus or E-100. The damage isn't massive, but with rate of fire around 7 shots per minute it is quite something. Other advantages are the accuracy and time of focusing the aim, but that is typical for all British cannons. It's probably one of the best cannons available in the game. Other good thing is rotating turret than maybe does not rotate too fast, but it allows you to use camouflage net and telescope with ease. Other, less impressive advantages are nice amount of health points - 1500, which is pretty much for a tank destroyer. This vehicle is quite mobile. Top speed is only 35 km/h, but nice power/weight ratio gives pretty decent acceleration. This vehicle doesn't need to be a speed demon anyway since its place is in the last line of the attack. The biggest weakness of Conway is his armor, even if it is better than in the previously described vehicles. The hull still isn't well protected, but the huge turret has been reinforced in some spots and he can bounce off some bullets.
This vehicle in the right hands and with fully trained crew can deal great damage to enemy team. The best tactic is to shoot at enemies from hiding, keeping yourself as far away from the battlefield as possible. It is a good idea to change your position from time to time to make it harder for enemies to eliminate you. When there is artillery in enemy team, it is required.
You have the best cannon and turret mounted already in the newly-bought tank, so all you have left to do is develop the best engine, which will greatly increase vehicles mobility.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
Conway, similarly to other tanks in its line, doesn't have a good armor. He does have a huge turret that is rather easy to penetrate, that is if you know where to shoot. You must avoid shooting at the turret's mantlet. It is divided into two parts. If you have to, then shoot the upper part, which is about 150mm thick. But under no circumstances don't shoot at the lower part, the armor is 250mm-300mm thick there. You should avoid shooting the armor plates at the lower corners of the vehicle. They are only 140mm thick, but they are well angled. Real armor thickness at those points is around 200mm. Other parts of the turrets are rather easy to penetrate. But if you have the opportunity, shoot the hull. Although it is well angled, it has only 76mm thickness. It is better to shoot the upper plate. Both upper and lower plates have the same thickness and angle, but usually your cannon will be higher than the lower plate, what would have increased the shot angle. The sides and back of the vehicle isn't well armed and you can easily shoot it with the high-explosive ammunition.
...as the driver of the FV4004 Conway?
Use terrain cover to hide your tank. Trees, bushes, ruins - all of them increase your survival chances.
To play effectively, camouflage net, binocular telescope and sixth sense commander ability are mandatory. Camouflage ability for the entire crew is a good idea as well. Due to the size of the turret, the vehicle doesn't have too good camouflage indicator.
Beware of enemy artillery. Due to the weakness of your hull armor you're a perfect target. Additionally, every experienced artilleryman will know that he should firstly eliminate you.
Keep yourself away from the frontline. Detect enemies with the aid of your team members or the binocular telescope. When enemy vehicles are dangerously close, try to retreat unnoticed. Avoid direct confrontation whenever it is possible.
...against FV4004 Conway?
Aim mostly in the Conway's hull. The turret isn't too thick, but it can ricochet some of the bullets.
Avoid direct confrontation on open territory. Conway has good penetration and deadly rate of fire. He has a fair amount of health points as well. He would probably be victorious in such battle.
Don't try to outmaneuver him on great distance, unless you're certain that he haven't seen you. If you get close to Conway the best option is to shot the track. Enemy turret rotates very slow and you will be able to easily outmaneuver him.
When you're on the side or back of the enemy you can load the high-explosive ammunition. The armor at those spots is very thin and the damage dealt will be massive.
Name
FV4005 Stage II
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
X
Armament
183 mm L4: penetration 310mm; damage 1150; rate of fire: 2 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 76mm/50mm/38mm; Turret: 14mm/14mm/14mm
Durability
1850 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 35km/h, engine: 650HP
FV4005 Stage II is the last in the new line of British tank destroyers. Sadly, in my opinion this vehicle is far worse than its predecessor. While in the case of Conway one could say that it has fridge instead of a turret, in case of Stage II it's a refrigerator, and an industrial one. The size of the turret is frightening. Stage II has officially the biggest turret in all World of Tanks game. Additionally, it isn't armored at all - 14mm armor on tier X is like no armor at all. Its size has a negative impact on the camouflage factor as well. It has a 183 mm L4 cannon which requires you to play in a specific way. Most important factor in this case is its rate of fire - 2 shots per minute. Accuracy and focus time are decent, but not as good as in its predecessor. Most important advantages of this cannon are its damage and penetration. Even when using the standard ammunition the penetration is at 310mm level and the damage is 1150. The same cannon can be found in other British destroyer - FV215b 183. Two shots are enough to destroy virtually every vehicle in the game. If you face a vehicle with weak armor you can load high-explosive ammunition and the damage will increase to the astronomical amount of 1750. After every shot you must hide for almost 30 seconds during which you are helpless. I don't have to add how frustrating the missed shots are with this vehicle? Stage II, unlike its predecessor, doesn't have good mobility. Although its top speed is 35 km/h, the weight of the vehicle has increased. The power/weight ratios is around 12KM/t and it doesn't give him good acceleration nor agility. I won't talk about the armor of this tank since he almost doesn't have one at all. The high amount of health points compensates it a bit - it is 1850.
When using this vehicle, you must keep as far away from the frontline as possible, not only because of the lack of armor, but because the reload time as well. After shooting you must have a safe hideout where you can wait for 30 seconds. When playing with this vehicle, you must completely change the tactics you used when playing its predecessors. In case of Stage II battles are way less dynamical, all you're doing is riding out of cover, shooting and hiding back.
Since Stage II is a tier X vehicle you don't need to develop any modules, they all are already mounted.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, large-caliber tank gun rammer, camouflage net
Skills and perks: sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
When describing the weak points of Stage II vehicle one can't not mention about its turret, which is a on big weak point. "Huge" is a world that perfectly describes it. The turret is massive. Its actual size is about 2x2x4 meters. All this box is cased in a 14mm armor, which means that its practically no armor at all. In the front of the turret there is an element that looks like mantlet, but it is only a plate and the armor is still only 14mm. The hull armor isn't much better. It has 76mm thickness and is not able to stop any enemy bullet. When facing this adversary, you can shoot wherever you want and you're still guaranteed to penetrate its armor.
...as the driver of the FV4005 Stage II?
Never ride on to open territory. Every time you do it will end up with your instant destruction.
The vehicle has a rotating turret but its rotation is limited. He is pretty wide, but remember about right positioning to not lose bonuses from the camouflage net and binocular telescope.
In case of Stage II you must use right tactic. Always hide behind cover like a building or large rock. When you have been found by enemy, move from the cover, give as precise shot as possible and return to the cover immediately.
Watch for artillery, you're a perfect target for it, you will receive great damage even from the shockwave, not to mention direct hit.
...against FV4005 Stage II?
Don't focus too much on the aiming, you will penetrate your enemy in every spot.
Try to provoke your enemy to give a shot. After that, you will have 30 seconds to ride towards him, outmaneuver him and detrack him. Remember: for 30 seconds enemy is helpless.
When you're driving a light or medium tank you can try to get close to your enemy by driving with a zigzag. Enemy probably won't risk shooting at fast moving target and you will be able to try to drive him up by the side.
Never drive in front of Stage II barrel, unless you're certain that he shoot recently. This advice apply to every tank, no matter if you're driving Bat-Chat or Maus, Stage II will penetrate you anyway.
Name
T28 Concept
Type
Tank destroyer
Tier
VII
Armament
105mm Gun T5: penetration 181mm; damage 320; rate of fire: 6,25 shots per minute
Armoring
Hull: 203mm/102mm/51mm
Durability
880 health points
Mobility
Top speed: 29km/h, engine: 960KM
T28 is an American tier VII tank destroyer. He will be available as a reward for completing a series of individual missions that starts in January 2015. It is one of the most interesting vehicles in World of Tanks. T28 connects great front armor, good cannon and low profile that gives him a decent camouflage level. His best cannon has 181mm penetration, which on tier VII is good enough to shoot even at tier VIII vehicles. Its accuracy and rate of fire on the level of 6 shots per minute are good enough. The greatest advantage of this vehicle is its armor, that in front doesn't have any weak points. Additionally, if you're positioned in the right way, it is virtually impossible to penetrate it with a cannon that has penetration on level lower than 230-240mm. With this vehicle, it is even possible to position yourself for sidescraping. It is possible thanks to the large gun horizontal arc. Gun depression is only 4,4(, which is a very bad result. The vehicle has a powerful, 960HP engine, but due to the big weight of the whole tank allows him to drive with the top speed of 29 km/h. This result isn't very bad in comparison to other vehicles with similar features, like for example T95.
During combat this vehicle will forgive many mistakes as long as you will fight on long distance. On small distance this vehicle loses its greatest advantage, armor, for he posses small, but easy visible weakspots on his sides. From close, enemy won't have any trouble with targeting them. The vehicle isn't very agile so enemy will be able to outmaneuver it.
Preferred equipment: binocular telescope, toolbox, camouflage net
Skills and perks:sixth sense for the commander, camouflage for the rest of the crew. Then, brothers in arms for the entire crew.
T28 Concept has great armor for a tier VII vehicle. If you are on the top, basically no enemy will be able to penetrate you from the front. If you have a cannon with penetration lower than 210mm, then there is no sense in shooting at the front plate or the cannon, you won't deal any damage. All bullets should be aimed at two machine gun nests on the sides of the vehicle. The armor at that spot is still 100-120mm thick, but it is the best place for penetration. Additional weakspots can be found above the turret, but they are very small and shooting them is possible only on close distance. The armor at those spots is only around 60mm, so vehicles with small cannon penetration should aim there. When shooting at the sides of the vehicle you should avoid aiming at the tracks. They are protected with additional plates and the armor there has around 200mm. It is best to shoot at machine guns nests and the space behind them. The back of the vehicle is its weakest point, the armor there has only 50mm thickness.
...as the driver of T28 Concept?
During the battle plan ahead which route will you take. The vehicle is rather slow, you won't be able to change your mind in the middle of fighting. You should a road that will make it harder for enemy to surprise you from the sides and you will show him only your front plate. A good idea would be to find a good shooting position, for example between two buildings or rocks.
Mount a camouflage net and binocular telescope in your vehicle. Your armor is more efficient on greater distance. You don't have to worry about being found by enemy, not as long he is in front of you.
Watch out for artillery, you're an easy target, especially when it has the chance to shoot your back or sides.
During combat, take advantage of large objects like houses or rocks to hide your weakspots - machine gun nests. Ride out of cover in the opposite way than during the sidescraping. Arc your cannon as much as possible in one direction. One of your machine gun nests should be hidden behind cover, and the other behind the rest of the vehicle. If you do it correctly, enemy will only see the front of your vehicle, which will additionally be well angled.
...against T28 Concept?
Shoot only at the machine gun nests on the sides of the vehicle. If your cannon has penetration on level 220mm or above you can try to shoot the lower plate of the armor, which is thick, but not angled.
If you don't see T28 weakpoints, don't attack him or try to outmaneuver him. Shooting with him won't give you anything in that case.
When your enemy has fortified himself in some spot on the map, ask artillery or other team members for help. T28 shouldn't survive both sides assault.
When you're driving a medium or light tank you can try to outmaneuver your enemy. Reload time of his cannon is quite long (about 10 seconds), so you have the opportunity to slowly get close to your enemy. When you manage to get to his sides or back, he will be basically helpless.
Japanese tech tree is the newest in World of Tanks. It means there are not many vehicles available. There are only light and medium tanks. You won't find any tank destroyers, artillery nor even heavy tanks on the Japanese tree.
Lower levels Japanese tanks from I to VI have very weak armor, even for a light or medium tanks. But thanks to that, their wage is lower and usually they have great mobility. You will have access to quite accurate, fast cannons with high penetration for such level of a vehicle. Sadly, damage dealt by Japanese cannons is very low.
Vehicles characteristics change with level VIII when you gain access to first better-armored vehicle - STA-1. Front hull armor is still very weak, but the turret armor has been significantly upgraded and well angled. Available cannons still deal less damage that other nations cannons, but they make up in everything ells - accuracy, penetration, speed of firing and targeting time.
The whole tree offers very similar tanks. Thanks to that, if you are getting good results with one tank, there is a great chance that you will have similar results with other Japanese tanks. All of them have great mobility, weak armor, they have nice fire rate and deal low damage.
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